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resoldering Buttons and Encs


japanesepotato
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Hi there, I have a couple of quetions I will appreciate if someone can answer these,

After uploading MIOS and app(64E), I found out my buttons works really badly and encs don't work at all

and I decided to solder them again since it looks like it caused of bad soldering or wiring after reading this forum.

Then I want to make sure that I'm not doing something wrong.

I got parts from Smash TV and buildin MIDIBOX64E with 24 buttons and 19 enc

I have 2 of DINx4, first one has 24 buttons on J3,4,5 and has 3 enc on J6, (D6,7 of J6 is opned)

second DIN has 16 enc.  onhttp://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_dinx4_16enc.pdf

  2 enc share one ground, but is it ok that 4 enc share one?

  Opned D6,7 of J6 on first Din, Can I just leave it opne since resistor network is already on the board?

  sometime when I turn on the swich, screen shows  ???????????? . what is the reason can be?

??????????????????????????????????????????????? :-[?(reinstall solves this prob?so far)

If anyone can leave some idea or advise I will really appreciate.

Thank you very much

   

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I got parts from Smash TV and buildin MIDIBOX64E with 24 buttons and 19 enc

I've never built a MIDIBOX64E, so ppl pls correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't a MIDIBOX64E supposed to have 8 encoders and 8 buttons??

If so, I'm guessing you haven't configured the software to tell it which DINs are buttons and which are encoders.

Try uploading a test app like ain64_din128_dout128_v2_0.zip from http://www.ucapps.de/mios/ain64_din128_dout128_v2_0.zip others at: http://www.ucapps.de/mios_download.html

then I'd connect 1 module at a time, test everything, then connect the next module,test etc etc

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Thank you very much again ;D

my pleasure...

let's hope I'm right and you can on with the boxing.

btw: I've found often these "problems" are blessings in disguise (ok, sometimes a very good disguise), they force you to poke around the application code and you start to get more of an idea what MIOS can do which leads to new ideas...

good luck

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I can ground them to same pin with D0 to D3 go to right?

yeah, you can use a common ground no probs...

D0 to D3 on every lot work well but D4 to D7 don't work at all

mmm, you're using ain64_din128_dout128_v2_0 right?

next step I suggest is to test each input. Either make a test lead using 2 pin Female SIL if you've got one, or bare wires will do in a pinch.

test each input to make sure they work - then go from there

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yeah, David is right, there are lots of tips here in the forum.

Anyway: do you have a "desoldering pump" (;D don't know how it's called); it sucks in the heated liquid solder when you press a button and usually is about 5 EUR only

832324_BB_00_FB.EPS.jpg

That's (for me) the only thing working good.

Some people reported that you may get it all off with some kind of heater-gun, but I think that may be pretty dangerous for near parts that get too hot.

Cheers,

Michael

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Thank you David!! I really hope this thing is the only prob I have on my borad and solve evrything.

to coin a phrase, my pleasure....

I really hope this thing is the only prob I have on my borad and solve evrything.

I hope so too, but don't worry about the so called "problems", they are "learning opportunities", especially round here, where you have the likes of, well pretty much everyone (I started to type a few names and realised it's pretty much every regular and irregular poster) is willing to take a bit of time to help out.

I think you and me both stumbled upon one of the friendliest, most helpful and downright nicest corners of the web.. I'm planning to stay for a bit....

;)

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Lots of people swear by desoldering braid as well. I have a roll of it here but I've never had the need to use it because the pump does just fine :)

had a lot of love from the pump (again, to coin a phrase ;) ) - but braid or not, I've always had problems with multi-legged beasties...

there always seems just enought solder stuck to the leg to lift the track given a good  yank...

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