ultra Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 please i need to know before i order parts. will it drive me insane if using my seq with 16 ppr encoders? the only model i can find with 1/8" shaft is by bourns and 16 ppr is the only option available.i'm wondering if getting good at using the fast function will help things out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stryd_one Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 16 PPR encoders are not supported, use them at your own risk. (IE dude, don't do it :) ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ultra Posted April 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 crap. and thanks :). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stryd_one Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 Yeh :( Finding the right parts can really be a b*tch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTE Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 *batch ;) ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stryd_one Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 Yeh, that was it ;DI've been searching for my switches for almost a year now...... ::) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ultra Posted April 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 http://e-switch.com/index.php?contentID=261&type=tact&seriesID=33those are nice switches that have both illuminated and non-illuminated. not the cheapest but they do look nice. if you get these, i highly recommend against trying to go on the cheap and adding your own illumination. just buy the ones you need with illumination built in.drew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
/tilted/ Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 I was just about to mention exactly these switches!Momentary, tactile, LED backlit, removable clear cap (option) for labelling, and between 60c and $1 US each (pricey for my intended LCxheaps, but very pretty)I also found this guy on eBay selling bulk lots (50) of push-switch encoders, which I stupidly just pounced on (50 encs for $60AU), I got excited ;D. Then I decided to look up the tech sheets, and I think they are 24ppr... If they don't work, I might just have to pretend I'm back at uni and write a driver for them... Watch this space! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stryd_one Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 Heh nah they won't quite make the grade :)I need panel mount, sealed to mil spec or at least IP65, with PCB pins, subminiature, but with an actuator that will allow the small switch to have a larger button, button must be matte black or non glossy bare metal, action should be positive, but actuation should not cause too loud a click, I need at least 300 max 500, target price $2 each.Now you know why I've been looking so long...I found some with all that except they have solder lugs not PCB pins.... The search continues :(Edit: Tilted, watch out, someone else got those encoders lately and had trouble... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheAncientOne Posted April 12, 2007 Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 Edit: Tilted, watch out, someone else got those encoders lately and had trouble...I bought some as well, even with post to the UK they seemed a deal.They are definitely 24 'clicks' per rev. though I hadn't fired one up yet.I've just had one hitched up to my old Racal counter/timer. I did a 'gold standard' with a Bournes ECW 1J, and I easily read 24PPR. Then I tried the ones from Mr 'gmtcruiser'. They seem to have problems - they produce random counts as if they have very very noisy contacts. The Racal has a reasonable level of deadband available, but only on channel 'B', so I can't debounce the cheap encoders. I'll have to try them as an outboard and test in the near future, but for now I'd recommend trying a longer debounce time. Oh, and the switch common is one of the outside pins, not the centre as in the Bournes ones.I'll report more when I've done some tests.Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ultra Posted April 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 so, i think i've asked this before since we're talking encoders, do you know of any with an 1/8" shaft? the only ones i've found are by bourns and are only 16 ppr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stryd_one Posted April 12, 2007 Report Share Posted April 12, 2007 Let's put it like this... it's a lot easier to find 1/4" knobs than 1/8" encoders.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
/tilted/ Posted April 13, 2007 Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 Have you considered using a coupling device? Using a 1/4" shaft encoder with a couple to a short piece of 1/8" rod? This would add to the depth from board to panel, but might be easier than getting specialist encoders... also easier to replace encoders should they fail.I guess it also depends on these knobs. Are they grub screw, spline shaft or interference fit?I love it when I talk dirty... grub... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ultra Posted April 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2007 i tried one solution but i'm not 100% happy with it. what i did was buy these things called taper pins that are approximately 1/8" on one side, and the other was slightly bigger and i glued it into the hole underneath the encoder. it works fine except that not all of them were completely vertical and the knob would shift out of place. about half of them work ok though so i think rather than finding new encoders, i'll use the extras i have and try to get the rest to be perfectly vertical.the knobs are the type with two screws in them. i'm not sure of any kind of coupling device but it would be nice to have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screaming_Rabbit Posted April 14, 2007 Report Share Posted April 14, 2007 it works fine except that not all of them were completely vertical and the knob would shift out of place.... I already placed this pictur once in a similar thread ;D ;D ;D :-XGreets, Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patstormont Posted April 16, 2007 Report Share Posted April 16, 2007 I bought some as well, even with post to the UK they seemed a deal.They are definitely 24 'clicks' per rev. though I hadn't fired one up yet.I've just had one hitched up to my old Racal counter/timer. I did a 'gold standard' with a Bournes ECW 1J, and I easily read 24PPR. Then I tried the ones from Mr 'gmtcruiser'. They seem to have problems - they produce random counts as if they have very very noisy contacts. The Racal has a reasonable level of deadband available, but only on channel 'B', so I can't debounce the cheap encoders. I'll have to try them as an outboard and test in the near future, but for now I'd recommend trying a longer debounce time. Oh, and the switch common is one of the outside pins, not the centre as in the Bournes ones.I'll report more when I've done some tests.Mikei bought some of these too, how did your tests go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheAncientOne Posted April 17, 2007 Report Share Posted April 17, 2007 i bought some of these too, how did your tests go?Not had enough time for a try out yet. Will post details once I get some.Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
/tilted/ Posted April 25, 2007 Report Share Posted April 25, 2007 I just got my batch.They too are 24 "clicks" to a full turn, plus push switch.I am standing by the post box for my Smash order to arrive.twitch.... twitch... oh well, I'll go in and finish proto-boarding my stupid-huge MTC display (stupid-huge as in 20mm high displays...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted April 25, 2007 Report Share Posted April 25, 2007 yeah I got some of those encoders a while ago... good price, nice feel... I think they're standard pinout, but haven't tested them yet. Be warned though, if you're pushing on a knob like the ones from ALBS and it's too tight, you might not be able to pull it off without pulling out the whole encoder shaft! It's not that big a deal as it appears to push back in without a problem... the encoder shaft appears to be a separate part with a pair of catches at the end to snap into a ring... this is unlike the other encoders I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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