Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Trevor

Newbie Looking to Drive (real!) Pipes

65 posts in this topic

Hi all

I did say that:

"These have the same pinout as the ULN type EXCEPT that the supply pins are swapped."

Am thinking now that a picture will be better than words, so will try to post a diagram as soon as possible.

If SmashTV is reading this (where does he find the time?), how easy would it be to produce a DOut board capable of being fitted with ULN, UDN/TDA and/or resistors? 

I used Stripboard for the driver chip circuits and leads to link these to the DOuts. Lots of soldering, lots of testing.  But it will be worth it!  Having a pre-made PCB would be so much easier, quicker and cheaper....

Regards, good luck and ask questions if you need to.

Sparx

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well, I went ahead and soldered the +12V onto the pins I pulled out and bent up.  Then I made the solder bridges and sure enough... it worked! (at least for the time being) 

Johnc, I have the latest DOUT that SmashTV sells (R3)

n210901242_30514655_1367.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What would be the best way to do this?
Looks like your way will work fine, and requires less effort than anything I could come up with.  :) 

My first thought was to simply use a dremel to grind a line in the connecting copper from the pins to the ground plane, then jumper Vs from J3->J4->J5->J6.

If SmashTV is reading this (where does he find the time?), how easy would it be to produce a DOut board capable of being fitted with ULN, UDN/TDA and/or resistors?

I'm thinking that leaving those pads unconnected on the next rev would be the most versatile:

ULNDOUT.gif

Best Regards

SmashTV

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...

I'm thinking that leaving those pads unconnected on the next rev would be the most versatile:

...

hmmm, how about a jumper on each? this way it would be trivial to configure for the uln and fairly easy to configure for the udn...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Trevor,

Congratulations!  Glad it worked.

Have you tried tying the output of the driver to your relay?

Keep us posted on the results.

I'm glad the SMASHTV was able to get into the act, as I can see a need for being able to used either the ULN or the UDN drivers on the DOUT boards.  I must admit, I did not know about the UDN driver. Just went with the recommendation on the midibox site. Probably would use the UDN chip if I were starting over.

Good luck on the rest of your project.

johnc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

oops!  Trevor made a boo boo! ::)

so, my console doesn't have positive keying after all!  So now it's back to the ULN's.  I probably still need those diodes (now reversed) between the ULN and the key contacts, correct?

I was so close last night!  Maybe tonight I'll have this thing finally playing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Trevor,

Now you have me confused!

Can you sketch in the part of the schematic in the console?  How are the keyboard contacts wired together?  Is it a matrix? On each keyboard,  is one side of all the key contacts connected to a common, grounded  bus?  Is there a power supply in the console?  How is it connected?  On your rough schematic, you show a line to keys with a (+) next to them.  Does your console keyboard simply connect these leads to the +12 vdc side of the supply?  Where in the console do the wires to from the stop switches connect?  Why do you now think that you have a negative keying system? 

You need to do a more complete schematic. Its getting difficult to understand what you are dealing with.

Johnc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

nevermind, johnc.  IT WORKS!!!!!!! ;D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

coolness...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Trevor,

There are many who have followed this thread and are interested in your success, in particular your experience with the ULN vs UDN situation.  Do you have positive or negative ground, and which driver did you end up using.

Don't forget that once you have success with a project roles get reversed. You become the "expert", and those who follow the details wanting to learn, become  the "newbies".  All of us have projects running, with problems to solve and sometime just reading about how and what others are doing prompts new ideas and solutions.

Although we don't hear from many,  there is a large group of individuals whose interest lies in "real" pipe organs as well as jOrgan and the other VTO or VCOs.  Application of midibox technology is just now taking hold and it is becoming more and more evident that there are other ways to control a pipe organ then with an expensive Peterson relay.

Some question I have are:

1.  The Utube video was not too clear.  What Software are you running on your laptop to provide the midi file that is playing?

2.  The adapter interface on the floor with the blinking lights is an ethernet interface, USB adapter, USB to midi?

Again,  congratulations on your success! 

johnc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I actually did end up using the ULN because my console keying does have positive ground.  My Peterson combination action does have a negative ground (I think) so I will still be able to use those UDN's.  For the ULN and the UDN, the INVERSE_OUTPUTS should be set to ENABLED.

In the youtube video I was using Finale. In the latest video (below) I just downloaded a midi file, opened it in Finale, and assigned all the staves to channel 1 since I only have the Great playing so far.  The adapter interface on the floor is my USB midi adapter.

Also, I picked http://www.midi-store.com/M-Audio-MidAir-25-midi-keyboard-p-16161.html <- that up yesterday. (Got it for $89.99!!!).  Now I can tune right in the chamber instead of taping down keys at the console and running back and forth.  Also, I can now play the organ from anywhere in the house. No wires! 8)

So far, this whole project so far has been surprisingly simple; even without a working LCD.  I just ordered another Core kit and 6 more DOUT kits from SmashTV this afternoon so I can get the rest of the organ midified!

-Trevor (who is glad to see the forum is back up and running :))

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have finished building the rest of my midibox stuff!

I do have one question though.

Is there anything special I have to do to program the second PIC (0000 0000 0000 0001)?

-Trevor

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To program the second PIC just be sure that the processor ID is set correctly in SysExBox, MIOS Studio, or whatever tool you are using to upload the programming.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Trevor,

Assuming that you PIC came from SMASHTV with MIOS pre-loaded,  your next step is to load the application program,  probably midio128, and then load the customized .ini file. If your PIC has only the bootloader installed, you will also have to load MIOS.

Do remember that the PIC id for your second PIC must be different from the one you will connect too.

Johnc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0