Echopraxia Posted October 4, 2007 Report Posted October 4, 2007 I am working on how to mount every thing at one height. Has anyone been sucessful with this. I figure I could use a caliper to measure the height from the mounting board to the top part of the base of the encoders which is 6mm (smash's) + 1.5 mm for panel. So my next thing I think would be is to get switches that have 6 or 7mm shafts including the base then figure out what height caps to get for the switches. Then I also have to size the height of the LCD displays. If those are more than 6 mm high will this be a problem. If any one has some pointers I would apreciate this as I am building in a small case. Quote
Wilba Posted October 4, 2007 Report Posted October 4, 2007 I found a good combination for the MB-6582:http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_parts_listAt least 13mm tactile switches work well with the 1.5mm panel and 10mm gap, and the 10mm gap is enough room for encoders. Mounting the LCD to the same PCB is possible, but you should design around it and mount the LCD to the panel directly, thus allowing for the LCD to mount as close as possible and not be constrained by it.The best thing to do is use a drawing package and draw boxes to represent the component profiles and panels/board and move things around to see how they fit. Don't forget about knobs and LEDs! Quote
nILS Posted October 4, 2007 Report Posted October 4, 2007 What worked nicely for me is 13mm tactiles, LEDs mounted 6mm above the board and the encoders mounted to the bottom of the board. Quote
Echopraxia Posted October 4, 2007 Author Report Posted October 4, 2007 Mounting the LCD to the same PCB is possible, but you should design around it and mount the LCD to the panel directly.When you say "design around it" do you mean mount the lcd first and go from there? Or do you mean mount everything else on the board and mount the lcd to the panel directly? I am trying to use the least amount of screws on the front panel. Off topic but has any one ever painted their midibox with candy coat paint like on low riders cars? I am using a metal enclosure. Quote
Wilba Posted October 4, 2007 Report Posted October 4, 2007 When you say "design around it" do you mean mount the lcd first and go from there? Or do you mean mount everything else on the board and mount the lcd to the panel directly? I am trying to use the least amount of screws on the front panel.I mean design it so that the LCD is mounted directly to the panel, and not overlapping the PCB with other components, and also (I suppose) design around the LCD being a separate thing; don't constrain switch/encoder/gap width to suit the LCD, or mounting things in between the LCD's PCB and the panel.If you use the "threaded spacers glued to back of frontpanel" trick, you can have zero screws on the front panel, as well as much more freedom of the number and positions of the mount points. The LCD can be mounted using threaded spacers (shorter than 10mm though) or even countersunk screws glued to the panel, as you can put the bezel right up against the back of the frontpanel and use nuts to hold the LCD PCB at that level. Quote
Echopraxia Posted October 4, 2007 Author Report Posted October 4, 2007 Thanks wilba I will have to try that threaded spacer trick. Quote
Wilba Posted October 4, 2007 Report Posted October 4, 2007 I don't know how well JB Weld sticks to unanodized aluminium, but know for sure that it sticks really well to black anodized aluminium. Quote
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