cimo Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 So here i am:this project started a couple of years ago, had a first stage as you can see here:http://www.io-sound.org/MIDI_devices/MIDI_devices.htmlthen moved on and kept me busy all this last summer long with learning what LC is, how to draw in a vectorial program, how to match that with Eagle s PCBs, etc etc. It was fun!THIS PROJECT WOULD NOT BE POSSIBLE WITHOUT THE HELP OF A BUNCH OF MIDIBOXers OUT THERE: YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE ! THANKS THORSTEN, YOUR WORK AND DEDICATION HERE IS LIKE A SUNNY ISLAND IN THE MIDDLE OF A STORMY ELECTRONIC OCEAN! RESPECT!That was the due blablablaing.This is the actual state:(see 1st picture)It s an "hybrid" MBLC+MB64E, they will be connected to a MidiSport 2x2 (internally) and ATM it is planned to be connected only via USB.Joysticks (with pushbuttons), 4x4 pot matrix, X-fader and the first row of encoders are connected to the MB64E.The 2 GLCDs (128x64), the second row of encoders, 8x2 and 5x2 SparkFun rubber buttons (still missing in the picture), 4 faders (no motorfaders) , navigation switches and teh jog wheel are connected to the MBLC.All the control surface PCBs have been etched by myself while the COREs, DINs etc come directly from Smashtv s shop, that is offering (if you don t know that already) very high quality stuff for a bargain price.All the Control Surface modules will be attached to the upper side of the blue acrylic panel, the COREs,DINs,MidiSport, etc. will be connected in the bottom side of the same panel, i ve placed hole so that the pin headers of the CS PCBs can be reached from the bottom side (see 2nd picture).The balck panel is the front panel (powder coated alu) and the white panel is meant to reinforce the front panel and carry the 5 M5 screws that are connecting the middle(white)/front(black) panels to the blue panel.Got it?Casing will be a custom made flight case (spare parts from Adam Hall), it s going tobe a bit heavy but that s what i wanted.There are still a few things i need to fix (especially in the code) but i ll take that later onand i will keep this thread uptodate with pictures and infos.Now back to work!SimoneP1030424.JPGP1030426.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cimo Posted January 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 .. i ve spent the ast day deciding how big the gap between the front panel and the mounting panel will be and finding out the proper screws.I ve also completed the 8x2 SF buttons PCB.GLCD windows are inserted as well(see picture1)I was not sure about how to mount the buttons PCB cause i use to hit hard so it could be a weak point.So i ended up cutting off a piece of my mouse pad and using it as a spacer and a cushion for the PCB (see picture2)P1030427.JPGP1030429.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sineSurfer Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 nice work there cimo!!! count me in for a kit ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sasha Posted January 30, 2008 Report Share Posted January 30, 2008 Looking very good by far. And it could look only better with all the knobs on. I see the jog wheel is in level with the panel on one picture and seams not on the other... I really like how it looks in same level. Keep on with good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cimo Posted January 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2008 sasa you wise man! i remember somewhere you where saying that you were not satisfied with conrad s jjog wheel and laser cut a new one! The issue apart from the jog wheel is that the shaft of the encoder can move of a certain angle, so i will look for a different encoder but i ll take that later on.The jog wheel color mathces perfectly with the panel though! I can t say the same wiht the navigation switch.I am currently planning the position of COREs and other modules on the backside.simone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cimo Posted January 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 After some wild cabling/sodlering.. P1030435.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sasha Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 Nice. Tell me, are those encoder shafts of longer series? As they are metal I don`t believe you have cutting in mind. :-\ How much clearance you have left from the surface of panel to the bottom of knob? If you told me, I could cut you one more small sub-panel just for holding the encoders so they can go 3-4mm further behind. I did that for my Endorphin. It was good and easy solution at the end and gave more sturdiness to the construction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cimo Posted January 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 .. give me a proxxon and i will lift the world ! sasa i am not afraid of cutting those shafts, but since all the SC modules are independently attached to the mid panel i can tweak all the heights for a perfect fit.The encoders modules needs to be lowered of about 1mm to get the knobs to touch the front panel when they are actuated (the switch).Any thoughts about the wobbling jog wheel? any special encoder? any hardware trick?I took this picture without the front panel but with the transparent subpanel, dig that.P1030436.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nILS Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 Any thoughts about the wobbling jog wheel? any special encoder? any hardware trick?On my BOSS GT3 theres a piece of plastic mounted to the back of the panel which holds the encoder in place (see attachment). Works really well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sasha Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 sasa i am not afraid of cutting those shaftsI know you don`t afraid, but still, don`t advise it as it is very boring...cutting, measuring, trimming, filing, edges... :Pbut since all the SC modules are independently attached to the mid panel i can tweak all the heights for a perfect fit.Great, that is the reason I always use multiple sub panels.On my BOSS GT3 theres a piece of plastic mounted to the back of the panel which hold the encoder in place (see attachment). Works really well.I think Cimo have problem with encoder knob, not construction. Construction is sturdy enough as I know. About wobbling you cannot do much. Few Albs jog knobs that I tried with regular encoder wobbles. The best is to use big Alps 10 step jog encoder with Albs knob. It is pretty good... smoother and much less force it take to turn, so much less pressure is applied so no wobble (almost).I hate wobbling myself, so I decided to make optical encoder for jog for upcoming project. It really pays off to put some effort in making it as it is probably most fragile part in every design. I don`t say it will broke, but it become more and more wobbly after extensive usage. HDD spinner motor is nice and sturdy platform for DIY optical jog. It is not so difficult to make it. If you can`t find a way to make coded disk It is still good idea to use motor for gluing the jog knob on top and attaching the encoder with some elastic attachment at the bottom. That is what I did on Junkbox. It is really indestructible as it transfer just torque onto encoder and not a side force. Hope you understand what I`m trying to say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cimo Posted February 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 I hate wobbling myself*whack* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cimo Posted February 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 Quote from: cimo on Yesterday at 21:26Any thoughts about the wobbling jog wheel? any special encoder? any hardware trick?On my BOSS GT3 theres a piece of plastic mounted to the back of the panel which holds the encoder in place (see attachment). Works really well.something like.. this?: :)P1030450.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cimo Posted February 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 knobs knobs knobsP1030569.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nILS Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 Looks really nice - but why is that one knob a different color? ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sasha Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 I`m having problem match colours and look of different manufacturers myself. Some making nice pointerless knobs like Albs but dont make decent looking pointer knobs. I believe he put what he got. Are those corner protectors on picture for this controller Cimo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cimo Posted February 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 i have 15 knobs of 4 different colors but so i am waiting to get some extra ones in the next future..yes the corners are for the box, i am planning a full flight case with lid although i still have a couple of doubts about the construction..it was easier than i thought adapting the rean knobs to the panasonic pots.Btw sasa those are the pots you were asking info about some time ago, i can t say anything but that they are cheap, very small and seems to be ok atm for a midibox project.I used a 6mm dia. tool on my proxxon to get rid of those ... errr.. those little tiny guides you can see inside the knobs so that now they will fit perfectly the panasonic pots.simone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj3nk Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 did you already test those sparkfun button with your pcb ?Controller looks very gooood :Dgreetz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polosid Posted February 9, 2008 Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 hi cimowhere did you find those joysticks with pushbuttons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sasha Posted February 9, 2008 Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 I recycled those from PS2, but Conrad stocks them too.http://www1.uk.conrad.com/scripts/wgate/zcop_uk/?~template=pcat_product_details_document&object_guid=F3CB3B3D41B8EA4DE10000000A010220&master_guid=&master_typ=&no_brotkrumennavi=&ownrow=1&p_load_area=0241780&p_artikelbilder_mode=Ein&p_sortopt=object_description&page=1&p_catalog_max_results=20&cachedetail= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cimo Posted February 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 did you already test those sparkfun button with your pcb ?Controller looks very gooood Cheesygreetwell i haven t tried the buttons with my latest pcbs but they worked ok with the first PCB i etched so i am looking good to it.About the mechanic construction for the SF buttons the 2 front panels (1,5+3mm) together with a few screws are enough, also for the "lateral" movement of the buttons and you can avoid buying the expensive SF bezels.About the joysticks i remember to you all that i have eagle libraries for them if needed.Carnival s delayed a bit the construction but when i ll be finished with cleaning up a few mm of dirt from my house floor i ll be back in the lab.Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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