Leaderboard

You're right. Than this is because Swinsid includes some more Waveforms, did not know that. Yes this is a great project and yes if you mean with mod to modify the code, of course because you can also program more waveforms into the free sid. The cool thing about an emulated sid is that you can make it bigger, better and whatever but this also means to add program lines inside the menu. But, at the moment, this project is just announced. The first batch of pcbs are ordered and will be send to everybody which ordered one and than the alpha software will be created. It is also possible that the pcb will get an update and be sure that there will be a new batch in a month or 6 weeks, maybe...

Hi Darryl, No mods needed. Stereo will work like the fpgasid, so you just need to use one slot and connect one cable from the core Special MIOS Code? Are you sure? I know that there is a special SwinSID firmware for better filters with the swinsid... You just need a top pcb (not sure if it's possible to build at a breadboard, it's no magic but maybe in case of lack of space) for a teensy 4 and the code which is in development. I've got an eye at this project and keep this thread up to date for news and if there a new pcb orders.

Hi all, I just joined to post the pic of my finished unit. Some comments from my side if someone starts building one and reads this before ;) - Pay good attention to the video instructions about the parts and part numbers. Always double-check the right manufacturer part number in the BOM, as some are very similar, but have totally different functionality. - If you accidently mix up the resistor network ICs and realise it too late, you can also use a chep "non-industrial" heat-gun to unsolder them, one which is not for soldering only, but e.g. for heating up and forming plastic stuff. (i use mine mainly to ignite my charcoal for BBQ ;). I checked my user manual to see what temperature setting on the heatgun (1-9 or something) is approximately which temperature, i set it to about 320-350°C. Worked fine for me, jus make sure not to force the IC off to early, wait until the solder is liquid again. The resistor network itself is not very head sensitive, be sure to disassemble or cover everything else around it that might get damaged (i removed the pushbotton caps again). - Do not forget to set the 3V jumper for the OLEDs in the beginning, you have to disassemble a lot if you are almost finished ;) Test your OLEDs as early as possible. - I mixed up some of the different pinheaders of the mouser BOM, ended up having not the long ones left to connect the two PCBs. Then i used some different ones i had left (i think from Reichelt) and they worked even better as i did not have to push them down again as Peter did in his video. - A little bit longer cable from the JA board (on the left-hand version only?) to the next board would have been helpful, the fitting and assembly was very tight, several times the connector went out of the socket. Ok, now i have to connect all my stuff to get going again. This was a lot of fun, and regarding the complexity of the project the drawbacks were minimal and easy to fix. Thank you all for this awesome work! Have a good time, Enginerd

Exciting moment...replaced the SwinSID with two original SID's... and it worked! nothing "fake" anymore...great little synth !

I received my sammichSID from Hong Kong yesterday, It's looking very good, nice metal case, and even jumpers I will carefully open it tomorrow and post the pictures, I ordered the black one with blue LED's , I'm very happy!