borfo

Cool - I'll switch them back to 1ks, that's easy enough to do. Thanks a lot for the detailed answers guys. Very much appreciated.

Hi... I'm in the process of building a SEQ V4. Core LPC17 is assembled, V4 firmware is installed. I have some Noritake CU40025-UW6J VFD Displays that I'm planning on using with the V4. datasheet: http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Noritake%20PDFs/CU40025-UW6J.pdf (pinout is on page 18) product page: http://noritake-vfd.com/cu40025-uw6j.aspx The VFD pinouts are identical to standard 40x2 LCDs, except they're missing pins 15 and 16 (lcd backlight). I made cables, checked the pinouts on J15, and hooked one of the VFDs up to J15A. Booted up the Core, and the VFD worked fine - showed the "searching for SD card" message, etc. So I wired up a second VFD and connected it to J15B. This time, the second VFD (on J15B) worked, but the first one (on J15A - the one that worked fine a second ago) didn't. I didn't change anything about the connection on the J15A VFD. I thought maybe there wasn't enough voltage to drive both or something, so I disconnected J15B and booted again. The J15A VFD still did not work. It doesn't work when plugged into J15B either. I don't have anything else to test it on right now, but I suspect I've fried the VFD somehow. The second VFD, originally plugged into J15B works fine, whether plugged into J15A or J15B. Is it possible that voltage might have been sent to a data pin on J15A when both VFDs were plugged in? I've got an extra VFD, so all is not lost, but I'd rather not fry it too if there's something wrong with my wiring... Pin 3 on the VFD is "No Connection", and on J15 that pin is VU - I assumed there would be no harm in leaving that connected, but maybe I should have cut that wire? There are no problems with the cables, by the way - I checked them for continuity, and checked for continuity leaks on adjacent pins... Any comments are greatly appreciated.

Ok - thanks guys. I cut out r24 and r19, and replaced r18 and r23 with 10ks. I'll try it out like that and see if I need to switch back to the 1ks on r18 and r23.

Cool. That seems to be working. Thanks.

Will 6n137s work in the core lpc17 module instead of the 6n138s? If so, Which resistors would I have to change?

Great... I'll take a closer look this weekend and see if I can get it working. Thanks.

Is it working on your V4l? I installed the new lemur file and created a MBSEQ_GC.V4 file with the OSC and BLM_SCALAR settings - the settings stuck on reboot, but still not seeing any button "led feedback" in lemur. I didn't have time to do any troubleshooting yet - I'll dig into it more deeply when I have time. But it'd be good to get confirmation that it's working on someone's V4L if that's possible.

Thanks... I'll try that.

Are you using the BLM with a V4 or a V4L? I'm having trouble getting the Lemur BLM to work at all with my V4L - as described in this post:

I'm having a few issues trying to get the lemur BLM set up with my v4l. I have run the following commands in MIOS Studio: - set osc_remote 3 192.168.11.102 - set osc_local_port 3 8000 - set osc_remote_port 3 8000 - set osc_mode 3 1 - set blm_port OSC3 - store ...and they work until I reset the V4L, but when I reset, the OSC and BLM Port settings don't stick - it seems that the Store command doesn't save these settings. My SD card seems to be working fine otherwise... (also, because the settings won't stick through a reset, I can't try connecting Lemur to the V4L usb midi ports.) ...If I run those OSC and BLM port commands and I don't reset the V4L, I can get the Lemur BLM app to connect to my V4L, and I see some response on the V4L control surface LEDs when I press buttons in the lemur app (eg: step triggers can be set from the lemur app). But the app doesn't seem to work properly - none of the Lemur buttons light up (there's no "LED feedback" in the app at all), and I can't start and stop the sequencer from the Lemur app. Also, the V4L control surface doesn't respond properly to button presses when the Lemur app is connected. So, two problems: I can't store the OSC settings on my SD card so they are restored when the V4L reboots; and the Lemur app doesn't work. Any pointers anyone may have would be much appreciated. Is the lemur app working properly for other people with V4L version 0.79?

I don't think that page is the way to order anymore. Just go to midibox-shop.com and place an order there. Just placing an order there and waiting seems to work. It took a while (like a month or so) to get my first order, but it eventually shipped. There's a page on the site that eventually shows the shipping status of your order. The boards and stuff are great quality, and the prices are more than fair.

Thanks - I just redid all my cables. They're all tested and they're fine. Fixing those did fix the vertical rows, but the horizontal row of current step indicator LEDs is still not working - the first three LEDs and the last four LEDs in the row don't light. (LEDs 17-19 and 29-32) All the other LEDs work fine now. Any idea what I should be looking at to fix LEDs 17-19 and 29-32? Not that it's really all that big a deal not having them working... I can live without a few of the step indicators. This is a great little sequencer, by the way. Lots of fun. Looking forward to getting my V4 parts and building that...

Yeah, I should have tried fitting them before soldering, but after building a bunch of projects like this it's easy to get lazy and just assume things will fit. Hopefully other people will notice this thread before putting their Core boards together and they won't make the same mistake. In other news, the v4l is a great little sequencer. I'm looking forward to getting the V4 frontpanel PCB whenever they're back in stock and putting that together...

No, I'm talking about the same thing, but I had assumed that the row of pins along the top of the LPC were the pins that were moved, not pins 1-19. But obviously looking at the picture, it's pins 1-19 that moved. It's hard to tell looking at my board, since it's all soldered together at this point. Regardless, having just assembled the board with the rev c LPC, I think that anyone trying to assemble with a rev c should try putting the pieces together before soldering, and then soldering them in place. They won't be able to fit the header pins all the way into the holes, but they will fit and the connections will work without a bunch of rewiring. It would be easier to fit them that way than it was trying to fit them after they were soldered into the LPC. Certainly, there's no harm in trying that anyway. If they don't fit, then you can try another approach, since you won't have soldered anything. You're welcome to disagree, of course, if you like, and your wire-with-cut-resistor-legs method would also work.

The row of holes has not moved that far on the rev c board. Header pins fit pretty tightly, but there is always a little bit of play before they're soldered - i think there would be enough play to allow the LPC to fit on the pcb. It wasn't easy to bend all the pins in the moved row to fit exactly after soldering, and the connections are not great. I think it would be a lot easier to fit the parts together before soldering - if anyone's reading this before building a Core module with the new LPC, try fitting the parts before soldering.

I just built a core with the new LPC. The new rev c LPC module isn't that far off from the Core PCB. One row of holes has moved a bit, which makes it difficult to fit the two together once you've soldered the header pins on to the LPC module, but I think they would fit together OK if you fit them together before you solder either side. I didn't notice they were off until after soldering the LPC module headers on, so I had a tough time fitting them together - had to carefully bend pins and force them together, but I think if you didn't solder anything until they were fit together you'd be ok. Pinout is the same, I think.

The fit is not too far off. It's tough to make it fit if you solder to the LPC before fitting the pins into the PCB, but I think you could make it fit easily enough by just fitting the header pins into both the PCB and the LPC before soldering either side. I just ordered my V4 parts the other day, when I get those parts I'll try that and let you guys know if it works.

I got a rev c from Mouser recently too for a V4l that I built... I soldered the header pins on the LPC before I realized that they didn't line up properly with the core lpc17 pcb holes. Had to bend and force the pins into their spots. I've been having some trouble with the build - some LEDs aren't working properly, and I'm having trouble getting ethernet to work. I'm wondering whether either issue might have something to do with the LPCXpresso not fitting right, and maybe some of the pins aren't making good contact. I think that if I had fit the LPCXpresso to the PCB before soldering either side of the header pins, I could have made it fit, but I didn't realize there was an issue until I had already soldered them onto the LPC1769. Is a CORE STM32 PCB expected anytime soon? I didn't want to perfboard my first midibox project, but maybe I'll give that a shot. ...it's a drag too, since I bought 2 LPC1769 boards, planning to build a seq v4 once I built the v4l. But I guess I can just build STM32 boards if I have trouble with the CORE LPC17s, since the frontpanels are separate anyway.

Hm... I just unplugged everything and plugged it back in... The vertical columns of non-working leds moved, so I'm guessing the vertical columns are a problem with one of the 10 pin cables. Second horizontal row LEDs don't work no matter which way I orient the 16 pin cable though. edit: Two of the 10 pin cables had problems... I'll fix those, and I bet the vertical columns of LEDs will work. But the 16 pin cable (P3 to J15A) is fine - from the schematic, it looks like the horizontal row issue wouldn't be related to the 10 pin cables. Possible that I've got a bad transistor maybe?

I just finished building a V4l with the standard frontpanel, and things seem to be working fine, but several of the LEDs aren't working. I'm tracing the paths and trying to figure this out myself, but the pattern of non-working LEDs makes me think that someone who's more familiar with the V4L and the Core LPC17 module might spot the issue right away and save me some troubleshooting time. All LEDs work except the following: LED 17, 18, 19, 22, 27, 29, 30, 31, 32 (step indicator leds, second horizontal row from top) LED 6, 22, 38, 54 (sixth column of LEDs from the left side) LED 11, 27, 43, 59 (sixth column of LEDs from the right side) I attached a picture of the top panel schematic with the nonworking LEDs circled in red. Buttons all seem to work. Diode and LED orientation is correct. There is continuity between the non-working LEDs and their connecting points on P6 and P7 headers. Not sure about connectivity to the transistors yet... Still trying to figure out the traces there. Anyway, if anyone has any hints about where I should be looking, that would be greatly appreciated.

I sent him a message and an email over the past few weeks and didn't get a response. I didn't want to hammer him with more messages. I thought it might have been discussed somewhere, and I might be able to get an answer from someone else. Not from you though, apparently. Haha.

Does anyone know when Smash TV is expecting to get new wilba frontpanel boards? The site says a production run is in progress, but there's no E.T.A.

I'll take a board on the next run too, please. Thanks.