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About gerald.wert

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    MIDIbox Newbie

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Pitttsboro NC USA
  1. Recommend me a sampler

    I totally get that. I went down the whole computer music rabbit hole when it first came out. I built my first midi box the old midi box 64 on the pic to have a knob box as the mouse got to be exhausting, limiting and I really missed the hands on part. A good sampler is the only thing that is really missing from the midi box platform. That said I am also aware of the cost in time and effort to build create something that the big manufacturers are already building ie maschine. Good luck on what you decide if you fine the time to work on the tsunami it looks to be a really good project. There are boards for the sega chips too. You could build a sampler around them as well. that project is in the works a bit last I looked at it but it sounded like it would play samples if you set them in the sega format.  What about the korg electribes the newer 2 S?  The new roland tr-8s also is supposed to let you load your own samples if you are mostly working with drum samples. There is also the Their site looks to be dead but code page might be helpful if someone was wanting to get something going on midi box platform: 
  2. Recommend me a sampler

    Have you considered a tablet pc running kontact, mashine or don't forget fruity loops? They all have huge sample libraries already. You will also get a ton of effect and sample processing power. Fruity loops has tons of automation, effects, routing and samples. All these solutions have excellent midi integration.  A small tablet or ipad mini would be super portable and have all the storage built in. A bigger screen would be a bigger screen. You could assign knobs and buttons to your sequencer so you would not have to have another interface. No mouse or keyboard to clutter things up. The mashine interfaces are fairly good as well. I have a micro and the regular mashine. It is a good interface for changing between banks of samples. The regular standard and producer mashine also has midi on it. You also get pressure sensitive pads for entering midi data to your sequencer. Bit depth will be at least 16bit with the onboard sound card. Cost will be much lower then octotrack too...  You can go Native instrument Komplete elements for about $50 and just run Kontact player as well. Kontact player is also free on NI site but it is not as featured as what you get in elements. The Tsunami looks pretty good solution but it will need programming (time) and it would not have the built in effects of the software solutions. The one thing to look out for with software would be latency. I think with ASIO and software it should be low enough (under 5ms) but if it is super critical it would be better with a hardware solution such as the octotrack or possibly the tsunami. A hardware solution would be super cool and compact but the software solutions are also well established and very powerful. They are worth a look if you have not tried any of them out. I think these solutions would be a lot simpler and more functional than ableton. I own all these softwares on my studio pc and I would recommend them all. Hope this does not clutter you thread as you are asking for hardware. ( I love hardware ) I am just aware how good the available software is for this function.   -G  
  3. MidBox SID Core Module schematic

    You can change any of the button assignments in the hex and recompile it and upload it. That will fix your buttons.  There are some additional buttons that are available as well if you wanted to add those features. look here :  The extra buttons and leds are in the source code. The panel looks nice with the laser cut wood. They make two tone acrylic you can laser cut as well. Where you etch it with the laser will be a different color. Just as an option your local fab shop may have some or a sample to show you but the wood looks great too just as it is.     I built some swin sid and they do not have the filter bug so are quiet. You also get a few more wave form options with them that you do not get with a sid. I had to turn the option on in the source and compile it to get the extra features. It was a while ago so it may be in the hex already depending on what one you uploaded. I agree the sid chip has a more interesting sound and is way louder. I built the atmel swins with the external DA converters. I do not have any of the nanos to compare them to but in the nano they did away with the DA converter. The nano has a faster cpu so maybe that helps too. Not sure if that affects the sound at all or in what ways. As to mixing all the outputs in the device it will really depend if you want to run effects on anything. If you are not going to run effects your plan to mix them will work well. Small mixers are also fairly affordable... You may want to consider going with all nanos as well for the matching if you are going to mix them on a single output. Lots of ways to get it to work. There is also a gate circuit floating around the forum if you want to silence the sids maybe helpful if you have a quiet break in your sequence.   Good luck finishing up your build! If you get a pt-10 case without the metal blanks they are quite a bit less.  
  4. LPC1769 rev D board how to load bootloader

    If you are happy with it I would not. I have not connected the leds but my understanding is the leds are a bit dim as is. I am not using osc so have not had need for the network. The only software I know using osc is reactor. There are several advantages to osc if that is what you are asking mainly the increased distances between devices. 20 feet is generally considered good safe length for midi cable vs 300 for Ethernet and if you have a fiber transceivers you can go miles with no grounding concerns.
  5. LPC1769 rev D board how to load bootloader

    On the newer boards you do not have to remove the programmer. It has a jumper now to enable/disable it. I would not remove it unless you really need to reduce the space to get it to fit in your application. You may need or want to reprogram later and it is a lot easier with the programmer attached. It does not have the pin header on the bottom and the pitch is fairly small to solder it on there if you needed it and had removed it. You have some options on the leds. I have not tried them yet so can not help a lot here. Also I am not sure how comfortable you are with soldering SMD or removing SMD parts you got the jumpers in place so maybe it is easy enough. You could remove the led on the board and your led on the jack should be much brighter this is not the best option though. You could source from the left side of the resistor. If you do this you may need to still use a resistor inline on your jumper. You could adjust this resistor value for the brightness you desire. A 100K pot would be an easy way to adjust for the value you like and when you have a brightness you like use a close r value.  If you go to low on the resistance your led will burn out so you may want to put some additional amount of  r in line with the pot just to be safe as the Ethernet jacks can be really annoying to unsolder if a led burned out. I am not sure what to recommend for the additional amount of R as I have not measured voltage and do not know the current and voltage the leds on the magic jack.. Possibly the leds are supplied at 3.3v and do not need the additional R. I have not tested and will not be able to for some time so can not be more help on the actual details here. If you have the time to test it out more please let us know I am sure it will help others as well. You may want to test with some leds not the ones on the Jack, especially if you have a few that are rated the same as the ones on the jack. That would save on having to remove the jack incase of a opps moment. I have been known to be an expert at making an opps moment. :)  
  6. Two-Zero-One-Eight

    Happy new year!!! May your mail box is full of parts in the new year!
  7. water slide decals for commodore case

    Label makers like the ptouch are nice while you are in the development stage. They cost the same as what you are proposing so not sure you come out ahead much there.  If you have a good idea of what you want for a layout and do not think you will change it they are not as nice as other options at that point. I have also printed a lot of my stuff out just on paper while I was working it out. you may want to consider a laser etched acrylic panel as your label. They look super nice and are fairly affordable. you can get multi color acrylic so the etched/engraved part will be a different color. Check Just some thoughts. They also have a good maker space in San Fran,  check them out they should do laser cutting/engraving as well. Maybe cnc aluminum but that tends to cost double to triple depending on the design. What you are suggesting should work and be ok for a while but over time I think it would tend to start to peel...
  8. +1 for what Peter says,  I think it would be easiest to do what you are asking in a script file in NG as well. Like Peter says you would edit your configuration in a text file so the screen would be irrelevant. That is way easier development then coding in an existing product. You would not have to worry about processing time as you would adding onto the seq firmware and if you ever wanted to do something different you would have the parts to do it. With editing the code as a script file screens would be irrelevant. You can edit over usb from mios studio. Scripts even saves a ton of time on compiling for that matter you do not even have to setup proper development tools just a text editor. This is especially fast through the testing and development phase.. I would think the only thing you might want if you end up with more then one configuration is an encoder with a built in switch and some leds to show what configuration you are running. possibly even one or 2 leds and one switch say for enable disable depending on what you want to do and how you wire your rig up. You could set one port to have translation and the other to be original. Just some thoughts on the possibilities.
  9. It may or may not be the boards. You may have an issue with your core or the jumper that goes from the core to the dio. I have even had a faulty STM with a shorted pin on the cpu. The boards also have an in and out sides for the header coming from the core to be aware of. I would check the entire path for faults all the way back to the cpu. It is easy but tedious you just need to look at the schematic. This post might be helpful it has the pinout of the cpu if you want to trace all the way back to the pins on the cpu. I would not attempt a repair as in the above post if you picked up your board form a good supplier if you find a similar fault but return it. I had bought this one on Amazon and the seller would not return it as I had had it for quite a while before I found the fault. That said it is way more likely that the issue is either a bad cable or a bad solder joint but I would check everything. Sometimes you get lucky and everything just works the first time and other times you have to put in the trouble shooting time to find the bug. It is helpful to remember a lot of other folks have this working and that it works. It can be a bit easier once you have some working parts as you have known good parts to test against. That is all part the learning curve of getting started. I would be really suspicious of the SI path and would check that for shorts, continuity and proper wiring along that path. I would test the cables and make sure they are pinned out the way you think they are as well. It is easy to reverse a connector or pin header on a din board.  
  10. I am not sure it will work without having a configuration file loading. Maybe you can set DIN  up strictly from the console but I have not tried. You can activate DOUT for sure from the console with: "set DOUT 0 1" be careful how many leds you turn on with this command or you can drwls a lot of power. You can build one of these easily: This SD reader would be good for testing as well. This would allow you to write and test a configuration file. You can access the config files from mios studio to edit it. that way you do not have to take the card out.   If you have the default NG configuration loading you should see button presses in the console. If you are getting a lot of noise and errant button presses showing up I would check for shorts somewhere and a swapped connector on your cables or on your boards. . Remember your dout and DIN are on separate channels on the sirio so it is very possible for one to work but not the other if there is an error or bad component somewhere on the other part of the chain. Mainly SI vs SO. If there is a wiring error, sorted trace, or component error that could account for your issues.
  11. STM32->DIN Sync ?

    Are you using Seq V4? A8 should be Din clock output A9 should be Din Sync start stop It looks like things changed a bit from F1 to the stm32F4 there is not a J5C. The pins that were A8 and A9 went to PC4 and PC5 on the STM chip. On the F4 core these are output on J5B as A4 and A5 are you able to test to see if you have din sync there? I would think you would still want to add a 741 if there is clock there to protect against shorts and put you at 5v. I am guessing it is not there and the software has changed though as they are no longer labeled A8 and A9 anymore. You should be able to use the SR on your DO too. I am not exactly sure what you are using for DO though. You just need to figure out what SR # it is.  If you are using a quad IIc it does not have a shift register on it you have to supply it. Also if you are using the line driver it does not have a SR connected to the din Jack you could connect one though.  NG can be super helpful to figure out what number a SR is. You can test for it in the console. Once you find your SR # I believe you will need to set it up on the CV configuration page  and in the hardware configuration file before it will work. Definitely interested in what you find out. I have the din sync jack on my Seq on the midi IIc but have not hooked it up to anything yet. I was in the same situation as you where it is a bit more to it and just do not have the time at home right now to sort it out. I do have an Xoxbox with din sync so am definitely interested!   I think if you have the line driver if you go here: and go to the bottom of the page it gives an example configuration that is working.
  12. MIDIbox SEQ V4Lite

    Thanks I do not know much German but the pictures were helpful. I have not built a case for mine yet but have started a layout. It is helpful to see what others have done to build the case.
  13. MIDIbox TIA - Atari 2600 Synth

    Got the TIa running. The interconnection test is a great tool. Be sure to use it to test your build. You must turn cartridge mode on to build it for the cartridge PCB #define DEFAULT_IS_CARTRIDGE 1 You can test all your connections to the TIA chip with this. I found it super helpful in testing that everything was working right on the board. If I can find the time it might be helpful to add a  few of the led meter leds to the test the second shift register chain. I am not sure if there will be another run of the boards or if you will make the board files available. If you do I would add to the build documentation. I just built the entire board in one go. This is definitely a way to do it and should work if you are 100% accurate and good at soldering. I was not so lucky and had a  bad shift register to find. It might be super helpful for new builders. and would make for a lot smaller chunks to test and know where there may be a problem if there were some breaks in the build to test.. I think this would be smarter than the way I did it. This is more important on a single board that is using some surface mount components. This might be helpful to add to the build section of the wiki: Build the Power Supply first. test. Build out the oscillator for the pic Build out the midi section Test for connectivity in mios and upload the interconnection test this will test that midi and the pic are working. Build out the led meter Test with the interconnection test if we add a led meter check to the interconnection test. This would check  the second shift register chain  and led meter circuit Build out the shift registers for the tia Test the tia socket  with the interconnection test app This would test the tia socket before you insert your tia. Build out the audio out section and tia clock section. Load the tia test tone app to check your TIA and audio out section or just use the tia firmware as it would already be loaded (Might make sense to skip the test tone app. Easy enough to send a midi note from mios studio) Add the eproms Load Tia Manager to test connectivity and test eproms. Make awesome music!   I also found that the hex file on the wiki and SVN would not work for me. My core would become unresponsive after loading it. I spent a bunch of time searching for a problem in my build that was not there. Everything worked correctly with the interconnection test. The board would lock up when loading the Tia firmware.  I am not sure what the exact issue is. I found by setting these options for the debugger section everything is working. ;; Default Debugger Options: ;; Degug Enabled/disabled #define DEFAULT_TIA_DEBUG_ON 0 ;; BankStick Degug Enabled/disabled #define DEFAULT_TIA_DEBUG_BS 0 ;; BankStick Degug Mode ;; 0: Basic. ;; 1: Advanced. #define DEFAULT_TIA_DEBUG_BS_MODE 0 ;; Eeprom Degug Enabled/disabled ;; no effect if DEFAULT_TIA_DEBUG_ON == 0 #define DEFAULT_TIA_DEBUG_EE 0 I would like to do a bit more testing and locate where exactly in these options the issue is coming from but not sure when I will have the time at home again. It takes quite a while to get thing going when the core locks up. The only thing I found to get it going when locked up is to flash the boot loader, upload mios over midi and than upload the application with the changes.  I am not sure if I can post hex files here but I would be happy to post the ones I compiled for the interconnection test and the Tia for the cartridge PCB. Also of note if you are going to make the TIA firmware some of the files are missing from the zip. Part of them are available in the interconnection zip on the wiki and I pulled the others from the sid V2 files. The make command will fail without the files.   I also had quite a severe ground noise in my build. There appears to be a separate ground plane for the audio out. When I joined the planes it is totally silent.  Here is a picture of what I did to join the ground planes. Maybe there is a better way to fix this or I have a bad solder joint somewhere in the audio out but this cleaned up the sound for me.    Thanks again Antichambre for all the work you did on the midibox tia! What a fun affordable project to build.      
  14. MIDIbox SEQ V4Lite

    Nice looking case! I have one built with the d6 buttons. I have been working up a case in inscape but have not finished it up yet. Yours being finished is inspiring. Hoping to be able to finish it up sooner than later so I can use it without worrying about things flopping around. I found the juce BLM to be super helpful in programming sequences on it. especially the 303 mode. Would be fun to have a touch screen or a real blm. I also like to set a groove on seq 1 and record from a midi keyboard on sequence 2. Gerald
  15. MIDIbox TIA - Atari 2600 Synth

    Thanks Bruno,  I must have missed that in the documentation. I will try it tonight.