NorthernLightX
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Only once before did I see a red soldermask on a PCB, and that was my GUS MAX soundcard. Red Roxxx ;D
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This weekend we tested the thing extensively with guitar and basguitar, and a few quirks came to light:
- The M5218AL opamp I used is not so suitable as an overdrive opamp
- The potmeters I used for my test setup could be a bit dodgy
Also some things in the clipping section were changed, as can be seen in the new version of the schematic. R5 was reduced to 10K, and the soft/hard clipping routing was altered. In the previous version the switch could select overdrive or soft clipping, and the pot could turn to hard clipping. Now the switch selects between soft and hard clipping, and to pot turns to standard overdrive, much better now ;D.
I also adjusted the wiring of the output jack as per TheProf's advice. I did not put in the suggested resistor, because clipping to ground has a nice sound, and if you want to be gentle to your opamp just don't turn the pot all the way.
I already uploaded the latest version of the schematic in borth Eagle and .PNG, docs will follow shortly.
Cheers, Alex.
P.S.
The current version is most suitble for guitar. In the near future, when the stompbox is finished, we will make some small adaptions to make it more suitable for synth use. Things to consider are:
- reduce imput impedance to 10K instead of 1M, to reduce unwanted noise
- leave out the Tone section and Volume section, because a mixer can do this much better with it's EQ and Gain setting
- make the thing stereo
Oh by the way, the opamp picked instead of the M5218AL is the TL082.
[edit]
Reminder: you have to press F5 to see the revised image in the tread.
I also uploaded the revised docs just now.
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Hi,
here´s another link to the Fonik board: http://www.modular.fonik.de/Page27.html
I also took some inspiration from it. The schematic is not very far away from the reference design in the SSM datasheet. The Fonik board is definitely nice for modular synths and completey manual control. One thing all (except one) schematics I found are missing is a linearization for the resonance CV. The datasheet suggests a neg log pot, and Fonik simulates this by the resistor in parallel to the pot. So for manual control this probably works fine. Only for CV control, like with the MBSID/MBFM, the problem is that the response is still exponential. This means that in the lower quarter of the CV range, not much happens. Then it starts to have more and more influence and after about midway the thing goes off like a rocket.
The only implementation I found that deals with this issue is this one:
http://www.emulatorarchive.com/assets/PDF/SSM2033%20SSM2044%20Circuits.pdf
Here, a 3080 is used for linearization. As the 3080 is obsolete by now (still widely available, but nevertheless), I used a LM13700 instead and played with the values until it worked well. For MB applications, this is quite a benefit!
I don´t want to diss the Fonik board at all, but from my board you´ll get two channels on a similar PCB size (left out all the pot and additional CV stuff) and a (kind of) linear response of Q. Also, some values are adjusted for +/-12V instead of +/-15V supply. So it´ll be more suitable for Midiboxing (while being less suitable for modular stuff because of the missing direct control).
Seppoman
Hi Seppo, I would love to have cutoff and resonance knobs on my small SIDbox to directly control the external filter. Would it be better for me to build the fonik board for that and use 2 pots, or is there a way to achieve something similar with your board? I don't mind using encoders, as long as I only have to mount 2 of them. (I'm also builing Wilba's box so I want this small box to be a bit custom with minimal controls).
AOUT board looks good, rumours about more boards from you sound very good too :D
Cheers, Alex.
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To illuminate the knobs from below, I don't think you really need to wire up each knob with an LED. Consider instead two cold-cathode tubes and one LED beneath the top-right knob.
Aren't CCFL tubes extremely noisy electrically speaking, and therefore very unwanted in your synth enclosure?
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I am placing the order this afternoon. Anyone who has yet to pay, please do so. I will be canceling the invoices at noon and there are no spares being purchased
I totally forgot to mail you, I just sent you a PM and an email, hop I'm still in time :-[
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I didn't want to open another thread, so I'll just use this one since it's along the same lines.
Is it ridiculous for one to think that he could use an older 230 watt computer power supply to power his CORE and SID modules? The power supply gives +12V and +5V, which is nearly perfect. Overkill?
I'm just thinking of alternatives to using wall warts or the C64 PSU.
Computer powersupplies (switching powersupplies the'ye called) give VERY noisy output, you'll hear it on the sound output of the SID. I wouldn't do it.
....I have some spare PCB's from my PSU project, if you're interested drop me a PM.
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All gone ;D
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I didn't even know there was a fucking profanity filter :o
[edit]
Whoops, must be only working in the chat :D
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... That pic of TK's showing all the boards he'd pulled makes me die a little inside every time I look at it ;)
I believe that not TK but Ian Hurlock destroyed that pile of C64. Anyway, I too have killed some C64's for SIDs in the past. The C64's were often partly broken and/or cigarette smoked, so I don't feel guilty at all ;D
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To hijack this thread even further (I'm sorry Sasha ;) ): Seppoman, are you also going to do a PCB with your new AOUT and the SSM filters together? ;D ;D
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"Press Play" don`t sounds much like name to me, but it would be really cool as a sticker on it. I thought of adding it on LCD bootscreen. About the 1530... well, I already have 6581 on door, so it will be too much of noumbers. Thank you for your proposition.
I was referring to the C64 term PRESS PLAY ON TAPE
adding that to the bootscreen would be quite cool ;)
I have enough problems thinking up names for my own projects, let alone thinking of names for others. Why don't you just let it as is, 6581 is nice enough?
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"Press Play" would be a nice name ;D
or else something involving the original type number of the datasette, that's 1530.
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I'm sorry, I just need to re-focus this thread for one last bit of clarification.
Are the following statements true?
1) I can use, say, a 12V 1A transformer to power both the CORE and SID boards along with a 2X20 LCD.
2) I can use a DC power jack with that wall wart and wire the pins directly to J1 on the CORE board.
3) Using Smash TV's boards, I will connect J10 from the CORE board to J2 on the SID board.
3a) This will be the only connection I will need to make from the CORE board to the SID board in order to power and control the SID board.
(Perhaps I am confusing +5V with the term "power supply".)
Thanks for your help, thus far.
-d
1) Yes, a single Cora and SID combo will probably work with 1A on 12v. Put a good heatsink on your 7805.
2) Yes, as long as you do not leave out any components from the schematic.
3) That's right.
3a) No, the SID board is powered by both 5v AND 9v for 8580/6582 SID or 5v AND 12v for 6581 SID. There is extensive information on the SID module page on uCapps, please read it again ;)
Cheers, Alex.
P.S. .BRD file of my PSU has been delayed a bit, probably this week (am redecorating the house, lotsa stuff boxed up right now, including my NAS).
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I am closing the SID sale for now. This does not mean people on the list already will miss out completely.
If you have not ordered SIDs yet then please wait until I post here that I am accepting orders again. There is a 99% chance that I will arrange another batch of SIDs and sell them here again. The responsibility is on you to watch for new posts on this thread.
If you have already emailed me about SIDs, you are on the list. You haven't missed out on SIDs this time.
Basically I am not waiting the full two weeks to collect orders like I said initially because:
a) I am already quite busy with the MB-6582 PCB order
b) I already have a good number and fair distribution of noobs and gurus on the order list
c) I have secured enough SIDs to please everyone on the list now, giving everyone almost all the SIDs they ordered.
d) Most people check their email often enough to have already heard about this sale and replied. If you waited to email me until you counted your pennies, then bad luck. These are new-old-stock 6582 SIDs. You should have ordered first and then sold your grandmother.
e) I totally forgot about the importance of buying 8 from one batch, as that's a big deal for some people, or at least a really nice thing to provide to someone spending $200 on SIDs.
f) people ordering 6582 chips would prefer (as would I) that all the chips they want get shipped with the PCBs I'm shipping soon.
If people are ordering more than 2, they would prefer that all were of the same batch. People ordering eight and I assume fully stocking their MB-6582 with eight 6582 ;D deserve to get all eight from one batch, and not get 2 or 4 with the PCB and then wait maybe four weeks and get another 4 or 6 which are of a different batch, pay for shipping again, etc. Please note I'm not biasing towards people buying more SIDs, I still allocate the same way and they will run out with some people not getting all the SIDs they want.
So... I stop the orders now, and modify the allocation to 4 per person as I go down the list. That's more optimal for everyone, especially people buying MB-6582 PCBs (which most of you are anyway). The people on the list now will be more happy (on average) than people on a future list. People not on the list now won't be happy, but they can wait until I get another batch. And I stay sane because I'm not collecting orders and updating a spreadsheet all day and can pack nearly all of the SIDs in with PCB orders, save you guys cash, etc.
We all love you Wilba, please stay sane indeed ;)
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I want at least 1, but am asking in the Dutch part of the forum for people who also want to order, to combine shipping from you to us. Saves packaging, saves costs. ;)
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Beste mensen,
er zullen een aantal Nederlanders wat spulletjes uit de PCB koker van Wilba hebben besteld, en wellicht nog wat aanvulende zaken bestellen zoals frontpanels, LCD schermpjes, knopjes en meer van dat soort handel.
Nu is verzenden vanuit verre oorden nogal prijzig, en loont het mogelijk de moeite om alles in 1 te versturen naar NL en het hier verder te verdelen. Mocht daar interesse voor zijn doe dan een postje in deze thread. Ik verwacht WiseFire en Twin-X wel te horen, maar misschien zijn er Nederlanders die ik nog niet ken die ook willen meeliften.
Enkele voorwaarden voor mensen waar ik nog geen zaken mee heb gedaan:
- Als betaling aan de organisator van de betreffende Groupbuy nodig is regel je dat waar mogelijk zelf.
- Als ik iets moet betalen (verzendkosten binenn NL bijvoorbeeld) dan betaal je dat vooruit aan mij.
Ik hoor het wel, groetjes.
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It's amazing how you find interesting information that you SHOULD have noticed originally and remembered for later.... ::)
Just discovering all the interesting tidbits about NortherLightX's PSU design, as I have been struggling with getting a good PSU to supply not only the SID and cores, but a BARRAGE of external VCFs....
A couple questions.... Apologies if I've missed anything dealt with in another thread....
Firstly, for NortherLightX.... Your "official" PSU thread seemed to fizzle awhile back.... What were your final thoughts on the design, and did you ever get a .brd file together? I would be MOST interested, as your design looks excellent! ;)
Secondly, and more for the North American contingent who may have tried this supply.... Any suggested value substitutions? I seem to recall that fuse values may change etc., but not being a power supply expert myself, I thought I'd run it by the pros - or at least far more "with it" amateurs than myself! ;)
Cheers and thanks!
Gav.
You only have to change the transformer and the fuse, but those are not part of the schematic anyway. I have the PSU running over here for a SID step A (minial control surface), but have not been able to test it with a huge load (extra LEDS, Cores, and SIDs). I think it works fine. The .brd file does of course exist, the pictures in the tread are made of it. I will add them to the tread tonight so you can fiddle with them.
A note on the VCF thing: CEM filters like +12v and -5v, so you'll have to add something that regulates the -5v.
Cheers, Alex.
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The CAN bus of MidiBox SID V2 can organize the connections between the master core and the slaves. Keep in mind that it is only possible to use 4 "modules", and each "module holds 2 SIDs. If you want to make the modules "swappable" you have to arrange a male/female connector who interconnect when you slide the modules in.
To sum things up:
Is it possible? - yes
Is it achievable? - I deem it very hard for someone with no DIY experience.
A better option would be to order Wilba's base PCB for 8 SIDs, and then make your own control surface with the minimal controls you would want to use. It will probably end up not looking like that Yamaha module at all in that way, but will be more useable on the other hand.
Cheers, Alex.
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Hi, I just noticed I made an error in a previous post, where I wrote J10 and meant J15, which is the LCD port. I'm not sure If J10 is a 100% pin-match with J2 of the SID board. Check the schematics, if they match, a ribbon cable will work. You only need 4 datawires though, and a 5v power supply wire.
If you want to keep things minimal: find yourself a C64 powerbrick and wire that up according to the available schematics. Powersupplies are about the simpelst electronics projects, so if you do not feel confident about adapting this schematic for yourself I can only advise you to use the C64 brick. Powering everything from a single wallwart is also an option but I think your 7805 (regulator on the core) will get very hot. Feel free to try though.
Cheers, Alex.
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Alex i hate you ;)
Oh c'mon you must score about as much as I according to Wilba's table, plus I think you score at least 100 bonus for hosting the forum and all :)
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Ah, very good. I'm starting to understand now.
Ok, so 12v may be overkill...but I want to use the single transformer. You're saying that 12v is more than enough, but to save the regulator from getting too hot, you recommend a separate 5v supply, yes?
A separate powersupply, or a powersupply which delivers 2 voltages. The latter can either be an external, or internal (transformers in the case so you still need only 1 powercable), but in both cases you'll probably be making it yourself. Toroid transformers give the cleanest power. A third option is to work with a voltage divider or power resistor. Have you found my PSU design? It uses power resistors to reduce the power in front of the lower voltage regulators.
Also, this panel mount part should work, do you agree?
panel mount dc plug. [EDIT] Strike that. This has a split tip. If you find a panel mount 2.1 or 2.5 DC jack, let me know.
Any connector can work if mated withe the right PSU, it's your project, you decide what to use.
Ok, I understand that I'll have to make some cables using the appropriate cables and IDC connectors.
If I want to use the connectors on a common LCD with a single row of 16 pins, do I mate them with SIL female or male headers? Am I right in thinking that, if I'm using the IDC connectors, I'll need male SIL headers on the LCD part. Is this a good idea or does using headers/connectors create problems when mounting the LCD (due to the length added by the connectors)?
By the way, a 2X20 LCD looks like a good idea to me. I want to make this as painless as possible.
Thanks.
-d
I soldered a male SIL heared to my LCDs with a female SIL header to a cable, to be able to swap LCD's easily. When making the cable pay attention to the way the CAN bus is wired. I have no idea how crowded your box is going to be, and if the extra length is going to be a problem.
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1) For the "non-optimized" PSU plans, is 12V enough to power a CORE, SID, DIN, and LCD (easier to say "control surface A" I guess)? He seems to be powering six modules, so I guess that's a yes.
1a) If I'm not using a C64 PSU, I don't have to make a separate circuit to make this thing work, right? In other words, assuming everything's done correctly, I should be able to just solder, check voltages etc., and plug in the power.
1b) The CORE PCB from Smash TV uses those SIL headers for J1. I would like to do the PCB mount thing, but I don't think the pins are compatible. Any suggestions? How do you mount your power jack? I guess you have to mount it on a protoboard or something, along with a switch.
12V is very much enough. Keep in mind that the 5v regulator can get very hot if you put a backlit screen and a lot of leds in the box and let the 7805 regulate 12v to 5v for all of them. For a 8580 only project I'd choose a 10Vac tranformer, and if possible a separate 5v. If you want to run it all from a single transformet you can take a look at, and possibly modify, my own PSU design which you can find by looking through my old posts. PCB mount powerconnectors for Smash's boards do not exist as far as I know. If you really fancy a PCB mount connector you can put it on a piece of veroboard and solder wires to the core board. If you're making your Own PSU just place it on the same board as your PSU components go on.
2) I plan on getting a standard 2X16 LCD. Ribbon cables: are there any that have been pre-made that I can just plug into the CORE board and LCD? I'm guessing this is a "no" because of the possible non-standard pin orders on some LCDs.
2a) I haven't looked yet, but I'm guessing there are pre-made 2x8 IDE-type ribbon cables, to interface from J10 on the CORE to J10 on SID, yes?
You'll need to make all your cables yourself. If you plan to use SID V2 some pins of J15 are used for the CAN bus so you can't use a standard 2x8 flatcable.
Happy building!
@midiboxxer: you're describing a panel mount connector, not a PCB mount. I agree panel mount is much easier to use.
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:o that's going to be a hard competition.
Maybe I should start building some MIDImerger /-router /-mons to increase my ranking ;D
Better to follow Stryd's example and just keep writing lots and lots of posts ;D
I'm curious how TK would rank to these standards.
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I'll take 'em. ;)
Knobs from ALBS (the "Waldorf" knob)
in Parts Archive
Posted
I would do it if I weren't so busy on other things right now... I'm in Holland, and could assist if anyone would want to lead the project...