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Posts posted by NorthernLightX
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:o :o
oops. check your pm
Paid :)
Thank you so much :-*
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from uCApps: "Another hardware option allows to use 64 instead of 16 GP buttons"
i have been thinking i would take this option. since i am new to mb-seq (haven't built yet)
i am wondering why you (and sasha) think that is not good? what are the pros/cons etc...
should this be a separate topic??
The problem is that when you want to use one of the general functions, which of the rows of buttons from the matrix do you use; the active one or the bottom one? I'd love to stick with my original design that loses 16 buttons, but am not sure if it's the best way to go...
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I'm doing dual LEDs for every row, so the selected row (the row the encoders are controlling) can be given an alternate color. Also I'm going to use a different color for every 1st of 4 LEDs, so the quarter notes are easily distinguishable. For example:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 R/B O/G O/G O/G R/B O/G O/G O/G
Where R=Red B=Blue O=Orange and G=green
Every line wil be red/orange, exept for the selected line, which will be blue/green. This can also be done with bicolor LEDs, but underneath the Icecaps this is just as easy, and I can choose any color combination (bicolor LEDs are not too common, or expensive).
I'm not afraid these "Christmastree" colors are going to ruin the looks. Ergonomics and clarity are my main goals, looks are second, but nonetheless quite important too :)
Cheers, Alex.
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Alex, I am planing to use icecubes just for matrix, as I dont need to engrave it, and believe cannot be laser engraved. Also they are too small for other than matrix. I think it will match well with opal acrylic I`m using to make other engraved buttons.
Nice. I've been layouting a SEQ too the last few days, and my design shares some similarity with yours, as can be expected with a 64 button matrix. What I did different was giving the bottom row of the matrix the functionality of the A B C D etc. buttons. Now I think of it, that is not a very good design, I'll have to change that and incorporate an extra row of buttons. Thanks for the insight ;)
Cheers, Alex.
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Hi Sasha,
are you going to use the icecubes in the 4x16 button matrix, or for the other buttons?
Cheers, Alex
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Could you not use a surface mount LED to make things smaller. Solder some wires to the LED terminals, glue it on the front of the LDR and cover front of the whole thing with insulation tape.
G
I do not own SMD LEDs, so I'm going to expiriment with normal LEDs first, but thanks for the suggestion.
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LOL NLX... look at the topic ;D
Damn, I should have slept instead of written useless posts I guess :-[ ;D
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Thanks Mike, it does help ;)
I myself was thinking to use hot glue to stick an LED and an LDR together, and then dip the package in black paint. The light can travel through the hot glue. I'm not sure if this is going to work, how do you predict the rate of success? :D
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Are you using the MBSID V2 application? Which PIC type are you using? Have you connected the Audio out the right way? If using SIDV2: have you created the CAN bus connections as in the schematic?
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thanks echopraxia for your help.
i have already load the pic with mios 1.9f, then sent SEQ3.2 : the lcd remain black.
i don't understand what you say about the pic header, i use smart option while loading the pic and everything seems ok.
Loading another app like midibox cv work fine.
however, i will try one more time every step in order. who knows....
Are you using the right PIC type? AFAIK CV runs on an 18F452, while SEQV3 runs on an 18F4620. You might try uploading SEQV2 to test, and verify your PIC model.
Cheers, Alex.
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According to true 6581 afficionados, the 6581R4AR's are the best sounding 6581's out there. They're "4th" generation (hence the R4), and used in most of the c64c (the beige new-case styled c64's, as opposed to the oldschool brown breadboxes).
Some C64 musicians (most notably Jeff/VRZ/CML) adore the sound of the 6581, and think the filters and waves this particular SID produces are way better than the 8580's. The 8580's are preferred by the more techno oriented musicians (like PVCF/Reflex...), because of the sick filters and some extra waveforms (hey, that's why most people here seem to prefer the 8580/6582, because of its ability to get dirty like a 303........ which the 6581 can't do because of some well, hmm, it misses some of the extra waveforms in the 8580, and the filters aren't that good).
Hope to have helped you a bit :D I prefer the 6581 as well, just because of its cleaner sound, and its ability to do digis using $d418 register on the c64 ;D
(Hmm, you can't tell I'm an avid c64 user can you? 8) )
the chips basically sound the same filter-wise. The main difference is that the 8580 is more bugfixed than the 6581. This results in a cleaner overall sound (less artifacts) for the 8580, but there is also a disadvantage: a certain bug in the 6581 VCA made it possible to feed it DC, which could be modulated to play samples. This "feature" is missed in the 8580. I think this functionality is useless to midiboxers, we do not play samples over SID. Unless you are building your SID solely for playing old SID tunes via ASID or similar, 8580/6582 is the chip to get for cleanest performance. If you're into a lo-fi sound with the forementioned artifacts 6581 can be a lot of fun too. But the frequently told story that 8580 is better for lead sounds and 6581 is better for fat basses is not true -at least in TK's schematic for the SID- because 8580 is just as good with basses.
in one sentence: 6581 is for lo-fi applications and C64 tune players, 8580/6582 is for hi-fi music making.
Cheers, Alex.
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...I've used home made ones in a voltage controlled distortion unit...
Hi Prof, would you care to explain how you made these? I've bought some dirt-cheap LDRs with the intention to create vactrols out of them, if you have some tips about how to position the LEDs and LDRs and how to create the light proof package I'd be very grateful.
Cheers, Alex.
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Apparently I misunderstood "opaque", I thought it meant "not transparent, but a bit (diffuse) translucent". My bad.
As I said I'll need them in my hands before I can make a final judgement. If I'm not going to use them I'll throw them in the fleamarket. I do have some transparent ones spare (I got them waaaay back, might have been the same batch TK got his from) so I'm not panicing ;)
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I'm still waiting for an invoice, never got one... :(
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So for midiboxers : DON'T USE HEATSINK
It's perfectly OK to use heatsinks, just don't share a single one among the different regs ;)
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I would say: enlarge your own panel to fit over the existing piece, and then screw and/or glue it together.
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here in holland its raining..
lol, why even mention that, it's ALWAYS raining over here :P
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220/230v is for pussies, I can't count the number of times it got me. One time I even lit a bulb by acidentally grabbing 2 wires. Just never do stuff like that when nobody is around to turn off the circuit breaker in case you get stuck :o
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Great work TK!
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Oh whoops. I see you're selling the VCAs, not the VCFs
He was selling 2044 VCF's as well but I got them first, sorry ;)
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vactrols are essentially just an LED and an LDR in a light proof package, right? Isn't it quite easy to build those yourself?
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OK, I misunderstood, sorry 'bout that.
I assumed ALBS would be sending the indivudual packages to us directly. Maybe that's not a bad idea after all, have you asked ALBS if they're willing to do that? Might save some or even a lot of shipping, after all you're located on an Island ;) ;D
If that's not possible you should ofcourse have them shipped to you insured. From there on I'd like mine to ship to me acap (as cheap as possible) ;)
Cheers, Alex.
looking to make a effect box
in Design Concepts
Posted
I've built a pretty versatile distortion unit based on various schematics. Just look at my WIKI page for the details. An adapted version for synths (minor changes to the input stage) is in the making.
Cheers, Alex.