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NorthernLightX

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Posts posted by NorthernLightX

  1. Nope, things have been very busy at home and at work, I haven't even populated a board yet let alone test it. And the way it looks right now it will be some time until I can start with this project :sad:

     

    I have more boards than I need, so if you want to give it a go let me know, maybe I can send you a board.

  2. @mwidhalm: the datasheet says nothing about the switching frequency of that PSU (or at least I couldnt find it). Beware that it might be in the audio range.

     

    @latigid on: if it would be possible to create -12v from +5v with your suggested solution, you still would need to power additional modules that you need the CV signals for. If those are in another box with a separate PSU it might work, I'm no expert. At least I would rather buy a known good psu than tinker with something else, I've had too many PSU related issues that put me off completely for a good while.

  3. AOUT only requires +12v, GND and -12v, +5V is delivered by the Core in the default configuration. Any PSU that delivers those voltages will work. If you choose a switching PSU like the Mean Well it is good practice to place some capacitors between the PSU and your project. Also mind the switching frequency.

     

    The Mean Well has a separate +5v line that could be connected to the AOUT board, but then it would be wise not to connect the +5v from the Core to the AOUT.

  4. I've wondered about the open connections on U2 pins 11-16. It's not clear to me if those need to be connected to anything. 

     

    My guess is that it does not matter. The pins of the other IC are connected to the connector through resistors, when there is nothing connected to the connector those pins are technically floating as well.

  5. Looks better indeed. One last comment: you could eliminate the track on the right side by routing the ground pin of the connector under R9 and R10 to the ground pin of U2. That way the board could be a bit smaller as well.

     

    [edit]

    and another one (minor): you could place C2 closer to the power pins of U2, like you did with C1 and U1.

  6. 2 comments:

    - make the tracks bigger. This way it's easier to home-etch your PCB, and harder to accidentally lift tracks when fiddling while soldering.

    - Try to keep everything on one layer. A fairly standard trick to use one layer without using wire bridges is to route tracks under resistor bodies. It looks like this could be a completely single sided board with some moving around of tracks in that manner.

  7. I spent half a day to measure the matrix layout / connections of my old miditech keyboard, just find out that ....

     

    ... the two cables with DIL16 headers coming from the miditech match exactly the two DIL16 sockets on the DIO Matrix. So it is a 1:1 connection, I didn't have to resolder a single cable!!!

     

    Would that be the same Miditech / Midiplus keybed that I aquired some time ago? That would be sweet, would save me from measuring that shiz as well :w00t:

  8. ...the noise is normally not filtered by the big capacitors. The small ceramic capacitors, close to the voltage regulators are filtering the noise.

     

    You are correct that the smaller caps filter high frequency noise, but the bigger caps filter AC ripple. AC ripple can cause hum, some people refer to hum as "noise" too. Since the mean well PSU has a switching frequency well above the audio range I don't suspect Johey has a problem with HF noise. Also, he stated that adding big caps reduced his "noise". Maybe he has a grounding issue. Anyway, if the big caps solve the issue, leave them in; problem solved :smile:

  9. What is wrong with the TLV274?

     

    Reichelt doesn't carry it :whistle:

     

    Anyway, I've been drawing and thinking and some more drawing and I think I have a solution that does not require a rail to rail opamp. One schottky diode as a negative voltage protection is sufficient. Proposed schematic and board:

    level_shifter.png

     

    level_shifter_board.png

     

     

    (Pad1 and Pad2 are there to accomodate different pin space potentiometers)

  10. I'm searching for a good single supply rail-to-rail opamp for the voltage follower. LM324 is a cheap choice but performance is not so good, I've read it can't go all the way down to ground, so +0,3V is the lowest you can go with it. MC3403 is an alternative, but I can't find if the performance at ground is much better. Suggestions are welcome.

  11. After re-reading some of the info on the 2164 board it seems the module is fine with a CV voltage of 11,67. I think it will handle the 0,33V over voltage as well if the "protection" opamp is powered by 12V, so no need to create a separate 10V supply. Less parts is good :thumbsup:. 

  12. Yes that's helpful indeed! I need to invert the summed voltages anyway, so doing that with a rail-to-rail opamp could be an easy solution to do the inverting and the protecting in a single package.

     

    For the supply rails I don't have a +10V supply available but a voltage devider could be calculated for that.

  13. Hi all,

     

    in preparation of the MB6582 with redesigned AOUT, that will be configured for +/- 5V CV signals, I am looking at some circuits to put in front of existing modules that are expecting CV signals of 0v to +10v. For extra flexibility/compatibility I'd like to have the level shifting switchable, and the input CV signal attenuatable (nice scrabble word by the way :rofl: )

     

    I have found this schematic on the MFOS website: http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/analogsynth_new/HOT_TIPS/PDF/DCCoupledLevelShifter_assembly.pdf

     

    I've come up with the following scenario:

    - the +/-5V input CV signal is fed to the upper input, this has an attenuator as well

    - a +5V signal can be switched on for the second input

     

    The only thing this doesn't yet have is protection against over voltage and negative voltage. For over voltage protection a 10V zener diode is probably the answer, but what about negative voltage? I don't want to damage the circuit behind the level shifter.

     

     

     

  14. Expect a finished unit to be at least €800, if one is ever offered for sale. It takes a huge amount of time to build one, and that will reflect on the price. Why not build one yourself? Or try a sammichSID first?

  15. OK, finally got to test this out for real.

    I was way outside of my comfort zone and completely overwhelmed by all the new things I had to keep track of and the musical decisions I needed to make.

    As such, I need to concentrate more on MEANINGFUL melodic improvisation as well as proper musical passages that I can easily recall... you know, like a traditional instrument ;)

    Technically everything went OK. Looking forward to implementing my body-tracking system so the images stay on me as I move and I'll be able to loosen up more.

    Wow, that is so next-level, love it! :)

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