goyousalukis

Ok, so I guess you don't have a LCD hooked up to confirm the application is running? Just to make sure, the steps to load the PIC are: 1: burn the bootstrap loader with a PIC programmer (unless you bought it pre-burned) 2. Upload MIOS - you should use MIOS Studio if possible. When you send the data, you should get the messages confirming each block uploaded correctly. 3. Upload the Midibox 64 application(with MIOS Studio - not the midibox 64 editor). The editor is for modifying the configuration, not for uploading the application. If you then boot up the core module with no pots connected, you will get lots of midi data on lots of channels. If you turn it on with all the inputs grounded except one, you'll get lots of midi data on just one channel. I wouldn't mess with the midibox 64 editor, until you get the core running. Another thing, If you don't have an AIN module connected to the Core, you need to change a flag in the Main.asm file and recompile the source code - this is from that file: Number of connected pots ; Allowed values: 1-64 #define DEFAULT_NUMBER_POTS 64 ; number of connected pots ; ; Multiplexers (AINX4 modules) connected? -> set this value to 1 ; No multiplexer connected= -> set this value to 0, allowed number of pots in this case: 1-8 #define DEFAULT_MUX_ENABLED 1 ; enable multiplexers I'm not sure if there is another way to change this without re-compiling. Let me know if you don't know how to do this... I could do it and email the .hex / .syx Hope this info helps a little.... Justin

Hey Neil, It really sounds like you either have the pot wired wrong, or you have a faulty pot. You have one side connected to ground, the other side to 5v and the middle to the A0 pin on the Core module? Double check that A1-A7 are connected to ground. Of course, if you have another pot, try that out. Justin

I got two old Yamaha Bass Pedals at a fleamarket. I have no idea what keyboard they went with. I only need one. I have modified the conector to a D-SUB 15 and it works great with my midibox. The pedal has normally open switches, but the ribbon switches could be re-wired any way you want. The connector is some funky design, but like I said, it can be easilly modified. I don't have the top for it. I am asking for $20.00 plus shipping cost. The pedal is pretty heavy, so I will get a shipping quote and let you know how much it would cost to ship. I am in El Paso, TX USA. Please email me at Justin@Ahrens.Net if you are interested. Oh yeah, Thorsten if you want it, just send me your address and I'll send it to you for free. Here are some pics: Justin

Hey Thorsten - I have a question that relates to this topic: I have an old organ footpedal box that I have modified and attached to a MB64. It covers one octave and each switch is wired to an input on a DIN. It works great when I just press one key, but If I hold one key and then press another the first pressed one sends a note off. Then if I let go of the second one, it sends a new note on. Is it easy to modifiy this behaviour? I'd like to be able to play arpeggiated chords on my microkorg from this pedal. Thanks Justin

The R3 just means revision 3 - I think that's what one of mine is too - shouldn't matter. As far as a digitial out - you would need an analog to digital converter, and I don't think too many people would want that since the SID is pretty much a vintage synth. I have no idea how to go about that, but I think it would be too much trouble. Justin

Hey Domestic, check out http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_sid.html . It tells you what components you need. As far as cost goes check out http://www.avishowtech.com/mbhp/ This is one place you can get the stuff. You can order all the parts separately from other companies, but I think the kits are great. The cost of just the modules needed for a full MBSID is around $100 if you are in the US. That doesn't include the price for the buttons, LCD, encoders, LED's and of course the enclosure. You'll notice that Thorsten organized the project in three steps: A,B,C. I recommend you build your project that way as well. Start with a step A - you just need a core and sid module. Get it working first. That way you don't spend too much and you can learn about the soldering and how the whole project works. Then move on to B and C as you gain experience. Hope this helps... Justin

Hey Matt. What you want is pretty easy to realize. You would just need a Core module and a DIN module. You could then add a DOUT module if you want LED's. As far as cheap goes if you are in the states and you buy the core and din from SmashTV: http://www.avishowtech.com/mbhp/buy.html It comes out to about 40 bucks. Then you just need the buttons and a wall wart power supply. The buttons can be cheap or expensive - it just depends on what you want and how long you want to search ebay. As far as easy goes - it is pretty easy, but it depends on the soldering and trouble shooting skills you have. The great thing is that there is this forum full of people willing to help if you get stuck. The best place to start reading is the www.ucapps.de site. Check out the core and din module pages. If you buy a pic from SmashTV, it can be pre-loaded with the bootloader so you don't have to make a PIC programmer. Hope this helps a little.... Justin

Hey TK, Thanks for your quick reply. I did as you suggested and I think it works properly - I just wondered if you'd check my work in case I messed up in the ASM! This is my USER_DIN_NotifyToggle movlw 0x12 ;; load 18 into the WREG cpfsgt MIOS_PARAMETER1 ;; Compare the button num to 18 skip if it is > 18 goto MB64_BUTTON_Handler ;; if less than don't complement comf MIOS_PARAMETER2, F ;; if greater than complement goto MB64_BUTTON_Handler ;; I want to invert all the buttons greater than 18. I was worried about the WREG - do I need to put the button number back in it after the compare?. Sorry if my ASM is ugly - it's been a long time.... Thanks Justin

Hello everyone and happy new year! I haven't posted for over a year, but I'm back on the midibox train. I have built a midibox 64 that I will use to trigger samples using foot pedals. I want to use cheap piano pedals that I already have. That being said, they are normally closed switches. I have already cracked one open and modified it to normally open, but I was wondering if there is an easy way to switch the button behaviour in MIOS for some of the buttons? If I have to, I'll modify them, but I'd rather leave them alone. Thanks Justin

Hey guys, I'm looking for some advice on a PA System. I am responsible for purchasing a PA System for my organization to replace our current one. Specifically, I am interested in opinions on Active versus Passive Speakers. Both for monitors and the mains. We are looking at replacing our aging current Bi-Amped system: old version of http://www.peavey.com/products/shop_online/browse.cfm/action/details/item/00575220/wc/2A2D21/fam/2DP/tcode/1/s.cfm with the Mackie line of Active speakers with actve subs: http://www.mackie.com/products/sa1232/index.html The system will be used for a wide range of sound reinforcement from a small jazz combo to a rock band to a concert band type ensemble. Our biggest concern is easy setup and operation. I am a fairly proficient sound guy, but my replacement may not be. Anyways, It seems as though the setup would be easier with the actives - less components, but you do have to run power to each speaker. Any opinions on this? Thanks for any help. Justin

Hey you serious Midi Boxers! I won an ebay auction for a bunch of Boxes of 14 Conductor 28AWG Rainbow Wire for really cheap. Here is a link to this on Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=419130&e_categoryid=61&e_pcodeid=56608 As you can see they cost 66 bucks apiece. Obviously, I don't need this much wire, so I am offering 6 Boxes (individually or as many as you need) for $7.00 dollars(US) each plus shipping cost. Just let me know where you are and I'll let you know how much it would cost. They weigh like a pound each. This wire is great for displays and components alike. It is the same size as computer IDE cables so you can use those type conectors with it. It is also great for tracing because of the different colors. I'll sell them in the order of emails I get at Justin(AT)Ahrens.Net (take out the parenthesis and the AT and replace with @. I would like to use PayPal if at all Possible. I am located in El Paso, TX, USA Justin P.s. Thorsten - If you want a box, just let me know where to ship it and it is yours for Free! Here's a link to the data sheet: http://bwccat.belden.com/ecat/pdf/9R28014.pdf

Ok, I'll answer #1 - yes it is already possible. Filter cuttoff and resonance are CC's #46 and 47 see: http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_sid/sid_cc_implementation_chart.txt Everything in that table responds to CC's, so just set the sequecer to output CC messages. Justin

Hey Pierrot, Go to the MB64 Design page and download the mk_syx.zip file. Unzip it and have a look at the midibox64.ini file. You can make your changes in it and then run make.bat It will create a Midibox64.syx that you can send to your box. (or you can do like marcel says and use the vmidibox) By default, they are assigned to the CC's you show, but on a different midi channel. Pot one sends reverb CC#91 on channel one, Pot two sends it on channel two. I would think traktor could tell the difference? Justin

http://www.eio.com/l2432ap.htm This site says they are 44780 , but another site: http://alldatasheet.net/datasheet-pdf/pdf/ETC/L2432.html says KS0066 /KS0033 or equivalent. The description doesn't mention if they are backlit, but they do have the pads on the opposite side that usually mean they are backlit. Plus they come with a cable (you'd have to rewire one end though). Justin

Hey, check this out: http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQgotopageZ1QQsassZed8010QQsorecordsperpageZ50QQsosortpropertyZ1 10 2x24 LCDs for $4 apiece shipped! They also have lots of 50 for $1.90 apiece shipped! Monster MidiBox Anyone? Justin

Pierrot, Thanks for taking the time to make those design drawings! The thing that strikes me about your controller is that when you first see it in a photo, it looks like a computer rendered drawing - very cool. Thanks! Justin

No - you can build a step c with only 1 sid, and then add on as you like. I highly recommend you build your MidiBox Sid in the same order that Thorsten has laid out: Build the step A first and get it working. then Turn it into a step B and get it working. then Finish it out turning it into a step C with 1-4 SIDs Good Luck , Justin

Normally open means that the pins on the button aren't connected together until you push the button.

Merry Christmas from South Korea! I hope everyone has a Happy and Safe New Year! Justin

I think most builders (myself included) scavenged the socket from the old C64. I am not sure what type socket you need if you don't have a C64 to steal from. Yes, the 3 pin connectors are the same as those used on computers. In fact that is where I stole a bunch of components. You can get the 5 pin ones from old usb front panel connectors. Justin

WOW! Talk about DIY! So you made a "master" knob and then made a cast and then made your own knobs/buttons? That is an awesome Idea - What materials did you use - How long did it take for them to harden? Did you paint them or is the color cast in? Once again - beautiful job! Justin

Maybe I am misunderstanding something, but I think what you want is already easily done with MidiBox64. The only thing you need to do is substitute foot switches for the buttons. You can use the AIN module to incorparate a Volume/Expression pedal. Any customisation would only have to be done in the midi messages sent by the buttons(footswitches). Justin

The 3/8" is the length of the mount, not the diameter of the pcb mount holes. The diagram shows that they fit .156" holes which is 3.96mm, So I'd guess they'd work fine. Justin

I am interested in a set. Justin

Great Job Sean! Don't worry about making noise on the list. I would guess that at least 90% or more of the problems we post on the list end up being something dumb - usually a poor solder joint or short somewhere. Once you get experience, you can help out the next guy. And don't forget to post some pictures or music when you are done! Justin