stryd_one

I just read this thing and thought exactly the same...

Traitor!! Infidel! Where are the mods around here? Ban this guy already! geez! :P ;D Nah, thanks for letting us know mate. Did I read correctly that it's still in pre-order?

There is no versus. They are both cool dudes who have given some time to this community. Conveniently, they both supply PCB's but live on separate continents. If you asked smash what parts you needed you might be better off just looking it up, asking here if needed, and order :) Feel free to PM me if you need anything. Just don't forget that like Smash and Mike, I am a real life human with real life stuff to do, so I may not reply superfast - or I might; YMMV :) Edit: Yeh, what shane said.

1) Yep 2) No? I don't see that in the changelog? 3) Yep. LCD will work in 4-bit mode 4) Yep

OK I read some more, and you do need to start with an even number.... Edit: Seeing as you are interested... This is the code that gets the pin status for the pair. The first pin number should be put into in W. The address of the beginning of the contents of the whole SR should be loaded into FSR1. (This is done by MIOS_DIN_2PinsGet when it is called from MIOS_ENC_Tick. This happens automatically when the encoder is moved.) The function checks the bits of the pin number after copying them to MIOS_PARAMETER1, and uses the bits to jump to the appropriate code (this is an optimisation which makes slightly bigger code which is much faster). These sections are specially designed to get pins 0+1,2+3,4+5,6+7 from each SR: MIOS_SRIO_Get2_Cont_Pin01, MIOS_SRIO_Get2_Cont_Pin23, MIOS_SRIO_Get2_Cont_Pin45, MIOS_SRIO_Get2_Cont_Pin67.... Then the specialised section of the function gets the pin values from the SR, and sets bits in W accordingly. At the very end W is copied to MIOS_PARAMETER1 for ease of use.

Heh I've always wondered that. I don't think it'll work across two SRs. Otherwise, as far as I can see, it should work fine... but I decided that instead of asking TK, I'd just use even numbers. Is there some compelling reason why you'd rather start from odd numbers? Edit: Yeh it should work like in your picture.

LOL I think that means that the mantra has served it's purpose perfectly :D Edit: In case anyone missed it: auaimbctg

Well I'll be...! What a great find!

I eat crossposts. This is what happens when I play with my food.

Nice :) Simple and effective layout. It does, but I think it's just the angle.

good shit

Nah not you :D the guy in the article!

That vector board appears to be standard 1mm (0.42") hole spacing, go for it

Yep! It supplies power ;D Audio. If it's all MIDI, you should be right. That depends on the capabilities of the PSU and the power requirements of the midibox Anything without audio... although I suspect that the AINs would be effected too (I've never used an AIN) There's stacks of interesting info if you search for 'switching psu' (without the quotes)

My Mouser advice - download the PDF catalogue. You'll thank me after you compare it to trying to filter and search on the website. OFF-(ON) is used to specify that the switch is normally OFF (OPEN) and sends a momentary ON (CLOSED) when actuated. Note that you (as we recently learned) should ensure that as well as being electronically momentary, the actuator (button) is also momentary, and not latching. It is possible to buy an OFF-(ON) switch which latches physically (it stays pushed in). Is it just me or do we need a wiki page on switches? Edit: "could someone tell me if this would be the right button to buy?" Yes that'll work.

OK so it's not just me being a skeptic... I can't seem to find it, where did this guy get the 20 year figure from anyway? ...and no lewd replies ;)

Salamat datang :) OK that's all I know - forgive me, I'm Aussie, spent a fun two weeks in Bali ::) I'm pretty sure there have been a few Indonesian midiboxers come by..

5.07 is fine, your meter probably has a greater range of inaccuracy than that :) 500mA sounds a bit slim, it'll depend on your LEDs and LCDs... You said it's only 1 DOUT and 1 LCD so maybe.... Pics! Pics! ;)

A0 and A2 != A and C. A and C are on the pots :)

They are some of the cables between the core and ain module... I would check smashs site or ucapps.de or the schematic.

Sounds like what happens if the address line A2 is not connected correctly... AIN A2 A1 A0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 2 0 1 0 3 0 1 1 4 1 0 0 5 1 0 1 6 1 1 0 7 1 1 1 Notice how A2 is always set for the 2nd half? Could you see what happens if you swap A0 and A2?

100PPR encoders don't quite match the spec :(

OK. You're stubborn. ;D for real though, yes, it's possible I guess, but it's a heap of work. You could make $20 collecting aluminium cans faster than building it. Crumble dude, spend the twenty ;)

So did you try a different encoder type?

Thanks TK :D