stryd_one

I say it whenever I'm flying towards a focke-wulfe with the sun behind me. It's just a planning/coding issue - like, making sure the required pins are available in the standard design without mods, making the software support the high-res encoder driver module by using a makefile-specified #define, creating said driver module, etc. Nothing difficult, will only take a couple of hours in the chatroom :)

I'll help as much as I can. Rasteri is the expert here, I'm just trying to save him some time by answering questions, so that his time is available for working on other cool stuff (like traktorizer compatibility). I'll often have to leave the really specific stuff to him ;) The bigger the encoder disc, the more accurate you can be with it... So if it fits mechanically, then leave it how it is :)

20? 52? huh?

Sounds like it might be a scanning matrix, but it's hard to say without seeing it... Given that you're tech savvy but not ASM-wise, I'd say you're on the right path forgetting the existing PS/2 cabling and ripping it up, but it will be much faster and cheaper to just use an old PC. But probably not nearly as cool ;)

J5 yes, but that's not a DIN module ;) Also, it's not being used as a digital input, but as an analog comparator. This is because rasteri has found that the optical encoder's output does not swing far enough to provide appropriate digital logic levels. R9 is a pullup resistor on the DIN chain. I'm not sure why you'd need to remove it, I'll leave that one to rasteri as I don't have his schematic handy. I'm glad you're having fun :D

I was referring to the driver software ... don't worry about that for now :) BTW, you can't use a DIN module to connect the scratch encoder... It connects direct to the core module.

Well, the application development page and the C page linked above, both point to the quickstart guide, which doesn't say anything about installing perl... and the C skeleton doesn't use perl either... So I think the problem is the code:blocks setup doco. I've confirmed that the skeleton there needs an update, as does the doco - they both use the old toolchain. There's a problem there - I'm very short on time lately and no longer using code:blocks. I think someone else will need to fix it up. Here's what needs to be done: Follow the quickstart guide. Install code:blocks. Download a fresh MIOS SDCC template (from ucapps.de mios_base package). Follow the instructions (in that doc) for creating a new project, but don't use "make.bat" - just "make". Zip up the resulting template and send to me for uploading to the doc. Honestly though, I don't think you're going to need ACSIM... So unless you're already a codeblocks user, I'd just go with notepad++ and the normal mios sdcc template. Let me know what you think, I'll give as much help as I'm able :)

Just a bit more detail here: If your mat is outputting PS/2 signals, so if you want to use it without modification, you will need a PS/2 driver for your controller. There is no existing MIOS PS/2 driver, however if you're a good coder, there are PIC PS/2 drivers freely available which could be made to work with MIOS. I assume the same goes for AVR, if you go the arduino route. It's not actually clear though - you've said PS/2 keyboard cable. Cimo said PS/2 dance mat uses HID protocol. I think Cimo has misused the acronym - PS2 (Sony PlayStation 2) and PS/2 (IBM Personal System/2) are not the same thing. The HID protocol Cimo refers to is most likely from a USB dance mat. So, the first thing to do, is give us a link to your dance mat so we have a clue wtf you're talking about ;) Now, it is entirely possible that you may be able to mod the mat so that you can connect directly to the pads, and not use PS/2 or HID. This one requires not programming but circuitry experience. If you lack both hardware and circuitry experience, or if you lack time or inclination, the easiest way to get what you want, is what cimo suggested - let a PC do it. So what we need to know, to give you the right advice, is: What is this mat, exactly? Do you have programming experience (ASM, C)? Do you have electronic circuitry experience; and are you willing to modify the mat electronically? Do you need a standalone box; and does it need to be very small, or would a SFF PC be small enough? Do you have lots of time, or money?

Smithy: They're pretty large but it's mostly just the way the headband is designed. FYI Sony MDR-V700 == MDR-7506. The sonys are really good sounding (you won't hear me say that about sony a lot, and I took some convincing, but the rumours are true), in comparison to the hd25, they're a bit bass heavy/hd25 are a bit top-heavy. But the sonys cost a LOT less. They definitely win the price:performance ratio. Not very portable though, they're way bigger than hd25. ;) Fashion... ::) The isolation on these things (when you select the correct plug size for your ear - they come with several) is actually incredible. You're supposed to pull your outer ear upwards, to line up your ear canal, and place them seated inside. When you let go of your ear, it snaps sealed shut. When I use them at work, I have to leave them hanging half-out of my ear, or I can't hear squat. They even manage to isolate most of the noise of my skateboard, which is the ultimate test. They do cost a bomb though... might be overkill for your setup TBH. I could make a few recommendations, but I still think my first one was the best I could give you - visit head-fi. That'll give you enough reviews to get an idea of how well each model you can find will isolate and the kind of sound it gives. headphone.com will give you a pretty good selection of what's out there too.

Gday mini, There are quite a few aussies around here (myself included, I'm in Melbourne, via perth, sydney, and perth again). Where abouts are you? The best place to get parts, really depends on what parts you're after. For MBHP kits, I usually place an order with SmashTV. When it comes to the extra stuff (PSUs, CS components like switches and LCDs, etc etc) it is very much specific to what you're after.... It could be anywhere from your local Dick Smith/Altronics/etc, or online stores like futurlec, or overseas stuff like mouser, or distributors, or group buys from the forum, or ebay, or or or or.... Let us know what exactly you're having trouble finding, and we'll throw you a hint or two.

Welcome aboard mate! There's just one thing to remember as a newbie around here - search before you post questions ;) Anything you can't find, or don't quite 'get' after that, we look forward to helping you with! Actually, the most important thing, is to have fun - as TK says: MIOS is a text adventure!

Share the secret seller dude, it seems you're not alone in your search ;)

Yeh, this is for cross-platform love ;) Macs and linux already do it, you just have to install gputils... PC's need a couple of other bits to act like *nix, but they get there without too much hassle ;)

The perl error shouldn't happen - I think you've followed old documentation. The new toolchain doesn't use perl (well, not to build apps anyway. You shouldn't need it until much later, if at all) so maybe you've also installed an old template app. I'm unsure if ACSIM is working with the new toolchain... Can you point me to the doco you followed, so I can start on updating it? Sorry about that!! As for the ANSI functions, have a search around for 'SDCCLib'. You can add these functions at considerable code size expense.

This was the first non-TK sequencer, and as such I think it is kinda exempt from the usual prerequisites for being called a user project (IE, doco on the wiki)...but...I'd love to see your doco on the wiki!! If you need any help wikifying the webpages please let me know. I have a script for converting word documents, OpenOffice Writer docs, etc to dokuwiki format, and I can upload the pics for you, etc etc.

Correct - we don't use MPASM any more. Are you on windows? The Quick Start Guide should take care of it.

More parentheses will help there.

Of course! Buds and such are no good for active people (read: running, jumping, skateboarding in my own case) as they are highly effected by cable microphonics (vibrations on the cables wind up in your ear), and they can serve to seal in sweat, which can lead to ear infections. I don't like buds/IEMs in general for that last reason, and sonically because they simply don't have the driver sizes needed to really give you a nice linear response. I bought the q-jays because I needed buds/IEMs for work, so I could be subtle about listening to music at my desk. They're a dual-armature design, so they have a separate bass and high-freq driver. This gives a nice linear response in comparison to other buds. q-jays are also freakin TINY. Smallest dual driver headphone in existence, by a long shot. Plus, the HD25 (BTW, you don't want the SP model) are extremely sturdy, hold fast to the head without high pressure on your scone due to the split headband and cup design (most headphones leave a dent in your flesh if you have a shaved head like me) and the best thing: every little part of them can be replaced, so if you bust a cable or something, you don't have to throw out a few hundred bucks worth of otherwise perfectly functional drivers. I'm yet to find a more appropriate can for skating with... SLP: Cans are like monitors, whether they sound good, is highly subjective... Likewise, if you're used to nice monitors in your studio, shitty cans will really annoy you. If you tell me a bit more, I could be more specific with my recommendations; what monitors do you use in the studio? What kind of music do you want to listen to? Do you want a coloured hifi kind of sound, or a flat studio kind of sound? What MP3 player do you have? (do you know it's amp specs?) Will you be using a headphone preamp? Do you move around a lot? Fortunately one of the biggest concerns about headphones is now all but gone - once, you had to worry about whether you could win a fight if someone tried to roll you for your flashy-looking expensive cans.... these days, people mug the guys wearing white buds, cause they know the person is carrying an iPod ;D

Visit head-fi. FWIW, I use Sennheiser HD25's (with lots of mods) and for buds I use q-Jays. The Sony MDR-7506/9 are pretty damn sweet.

Sweet!!

Scored mine today down under. Hot damn, those PCBs look nice.

Yep, that's the idea! :)

Yeh that should work! Phil, have a search around for info on changing the baud rate, and using IIC_MIDI to upload apps etc. It'll definitely be tricky, and you'll have to do most of the work alone, but it sounds like you should be able to pull it off. Good luck!!

Sounds like dodgy pots :( (Specifically, the pins on them not connecting internally as they should)

Today, the second movie in this series was released. If you haven't seen the first one, you can watch it here: Zeitgeist, The Movie And the follow up: Zeitgeist Addendum If you've not heard of them yet, here's an excerpt from their website 'Zeitgeist, The Movie' and 'Zeitgeist: Addendum' were created as Not-for-Profit expressions to communicate what the name felt were highly important social understandings which most humans are generally not aware of. The first film focuses on suppressed historical & modern information about currently dominant social institutions, while also exploring what could be in store for humanity if the power structures at large continue their patterns of self-interest, corruption, and consolidation. The second film, Zeitgeist: Addendum, attempts to locate the root causes of this pervasive social corruption, while offering a solution. This solution is not based on politics, morality, laws, or any other "establishment" notions of human affairs, but rather on a modern, non-superstitious based understanding of what we are and how we align with nature, to which we are a part. The work advocates a new social system which is updated to present day knowledge, highly influenced by the life long work of Jacque Fresco and The Venus Project. Enjoy ;)