DriftZ

Hi, sorry for the late reply. & thanks for the positive comments :) Meanwhile I have put up some more pics on my site & I will try to write some story about it later, ok ? :D Currently I'm working on a SIDdering thing (=dutch!) & will try to put up some pics of that as soon as I get it working (if ever hehehehe) Goodluck to all Driftz. http://users.pandora.be/DriftZ/DriftZ_MBHP_pics.html

Burned v101 to my 1st box, Seems to work just fine here, the "4step note-overview" is nice too. Also noticed you have swapped the shift(shortcut) button, good thing I haven't soldered my 2nd box's buttons yet :) ; direct track-select & shift-tracksel=mute is the other way round then I was thinking of tho :) (I would have kept the direct mute & chosen for shift-select way, but its a matter of personal taste I suppose) But again, great work TK !! Not a big prob, the switch solution should work just fine :)

Coolcoolcool :D Can't wait to try it out, darn I need to get this 2nd box finished asap... wanna see that BPM LED flashing ! ;D best regards DriftZ Oh BTW, did you also do something with the 'autosave' thing ?

Whoopsss :-[ Oh well, now I know it 8) greetz, DriftZ

In short: The 20MHZ crystal is the 'clock' (20million pulses per second) The software program is continuously 'looping' & 1 instruction is executed every 4 clockpulses (makes 5 MIPS = 5 million instructions per second) It requires x microseconds for 1 complete software loop, much faster then BPM & the MIDI baudrate. The time 'gaps' are filled with x length 'do nothing' instruction loops before sending out some MIDI message (i.e. MIDI clock msg) which are of much lower speed. Hope this is the answer on your question ( & a bit correct :D )

je kan eens de volgende sites proberen: http://www.modwarehouse.com http://laupro.nl/ia/ia_oz.asp je hoeft die trimpots niet op de pcb te monteren, maar ik heb gemerkt dat de 7805 regulator erg heet wordt als ie ook de backlight moet voeden. dus één keer het een beetje getemperd instellen & dan van afblijven, dan zijn die trimpots voldoende. vrgr DriftZ

Yes You don't make 256 or so holes & you don't solder 256 or so LEDs to something :D -Core (always needed) -DIN (for buttons & encoders) -you dont need DOUT (used for LEDs) On the module-pages is mentioned in which apps they are used & how they are connected. Best regards

Now that I'm thinking of the current track indicators LEDs... Currently there are some digi INs with more or less the same function DIN/J3/D4 Â (Start /stop) DIN/J9/D5 (restart) DIN/J9/D7 (stop) http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_dinx4_mb64seq.pdf perhaps one of those on J9 could be used together with these LEDs to form a 'track select' function of some kind. If I'm not mistaken, currently a track is selected by tweaking a knob or digging into the menu. Layer select buttons are already present. But with a dedicated track select button, you could use the 'soft takeover' button to display the track contents without having to turn (& alter) a knob. BTW I do like the start/stop combined in one button like the J3/D4. -just an idea- just thought about it again... maybe... shift+trackmute= track select ? Best wishes DriftZ

track ON/OFF(mute) indicators may be usefull or current track indicators (4) or current layer indicators (3) or maybe a BPM indicator/flasher or... :)

Oh, this is great ! by using the switch I now can choose between 'program-' & 'performance-' mode :) excellent, thanks !!

Oh, this is great ! by using the switch I now can choose between 'program-' & 'performance-' mode :) excellent, thanks !!

I guess so then :) It's just... I put this thing together & everything worked from the first time on (this isn't normal for me, if you knew how many kits I tossed in the bin... ;) ..regards :) DriftZ

I guess so then :) It's just... I put this thing together & everything worked from the first time on (this isn't normal for me, if you knew how many kits I tossed in the bin... ;) ..regards :) DriftZ

I think it depends a bit on how goodlooking you want it to be. If you want a real factory-built looks but you lack the equipment, then you could consider having it built by some factory. Like the mentioned Schaeffer 'frontplatten'-service, they make 'perfect' stuff in ALU. There are also ppl that care more about functionality then looks & they can do with much less professional tools, like merely a drill & a saw & make it in wood or recycle some other container.(you could e.g. use the casing of your old VCR or whatever) I currently am using 4mm wood (the layered type they use to make casings for concrete works, it also is darkbrown painted, makes it feel smoother) I put a blank raster-PCB on it with double-sided tape as a template (to keep equal distances). Then I drilled 1mm holes. After removing the PCB, I redid them with a bigger drill. Doesn't look as 'pro' as CNC manufactured but it will do for me. Use your imagination a bit I'd say :) best regards, DriftZ

I think it depends a bit on how goodlooking you want it to be. If you want a real factory-built looks but you lack the equipment, then you could consider having it built by some factory. Like the mentioned Schaeffer 'frontplatten'-service, they make 'perfect' stuff in ALU. There are also ppl that care more about functionality then looks & they can do with much less professional tools, like merely a drill & a saw & make it in wood or recycle some other container.(you could e.g. use the casing of your old VCR or whatever) I currently am using 4mm wood (the layered type they use to make casings for concrete works, it also is darkbrown painted, makes it feel smoother) I put a blank raster-PCB on it with double-sided tape as a template (to keep equal distances). Then I drilled 1mm holes. After removing the PCB, I redid them with a bigger drill. Doesn't look as 'pro' as CNC manufactured but it will do for me. Use your imagination a bit I'd say :) best regards, DriftZ

Hello, Are you sure that it is the LEDs that are the wrong way around? I think if they were fit the wrong way, they would never light (when anode is tied to ground). I tried holding another LED at the legs of one fitted. In one direction, they work the same, in the other direction, the other one never works. (my LEDs have equal length legs, but that would not have anything to do with it I guess ;) But perhaps everything does work as intended, I'll try to illustrate : O=unmuted;*=muted; °=current; N=Not lit; L=Lit; on LCD: O°O* OOOO *OOO OO*O on LEDS: NLNL NNNN LNNN NNLN so if I wud press all switches, all LEDs would be lit & I hear nothing :) But anyway, I don't want to be a nitpicker here, the thing is supercool as it is already, just that I have to be very careful when I turn a knob as it is more or less instantly auto-saved/overwritten, which I think is a bit a pitty because its very easy to mess up some cool pattern you've created before. It does make a great concentration-exercise tho :) Thanks again & best regards to all DriftZ

Hello, Are you sure that it is the LEDs that are the wrong way around? I think if they were fit the wrong way, they would never light (when anode is tied to ground). I tried holding another LED at the legs of one fitted. In one direction, they work the same, in the other direction, the other one never works. (my LEDs have equal length legs, but that would not have anything to do with it I guess ;) But perhaps everything does work as intended, I'll try to illustrate : O=unmuted;*=muted; °=current; N=Not lit; L=Lit; on LCD: O°O* OOOO *OOO OO*O on LEDS: NLNL NNNN LNNN NNLN so if I wud press all switches, all LEDs would be lit & I hear nothing :) But anyway, I don't want to be a nitpicker here, the thing is supercool as it is already, just that I have to be very careful when I turn a knob as it is more or less instantly auto-saved/overwritten, which I think is a bit a pitty because its very easy to mess up some cool pattern you've created before. It does make a great concentration-exercise tho :) Thanks again & best regards to all DriftZ

a quick look at the DOUTX4 module pages &... http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_doutx4_ledrings.pdf :)

a quick look at the DOUTX4 module pages &... http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_doutx4_ledrings.pdf :)

Hi, I just smashed together my first 'box' (well, the electronics anyway) & its even working ! :) Many thanks to Sir TK ! I'm running the sequencer & it is absolutely magnificent ! The more I play with it, the more I like it ! But I do have a few questions about it: The 'mute' buttons & functions... it seems to run in 'negative mode' ... ? I mean, notes/steps that are ON have the LED OFF, when you mute the step, the LED goes ON... is this how it is supposed to work or did I connect something wrong somewhere ? & also, can these muted steps be saved ? More about saving, does it autosave now ? or do I have to copy patterns over itself ? The latter could prevent unintended changes.... I've read something about entering the sysex menu to save the potvalues, I'm not sure how it is atm. thanks again for these great projects & goodluck to all !

Hi, I just smashed together my first 'box' (well, the electronics anyway) & its even working ! :) Many thanks to Sir TK ! I'm running the sequencer & it is absolutely magnificent ! The more I play with it, the more I like it ! But I do have a few questions about it: The 'mute' buttons & functions... it seems to run in 'negative mode' ... ? I mean, notes/steps that are ON have the LED OFF, when you mute the step, the LED goes ON... is this how it is supposed to work or did I connect something wrong somewhere ? & also, can these muted steps be saved ? More about saving, does it autosave now ? or do I have to copy patterns over itself ? The latter could prevent unintended changes.... I've read something about entering the sysex menu to save the potvalues, I'm not sure how it is atm. thanks again for these great projects & goodluck to all !

Great !!!

If anybody would be looking for another drill bit source: http://w1.121.telia.com/~u12103129/ ( = private sale of surplus or something) I ordered a set from him, delivery was superfast (from .se to .be in 3 days) & the guy was also very friendly & helpful, he made me a custom set (from .6 to 3mm).

Hi, I need some help with making some deciscions as soon i'll start drilling. I'm thinking of building a sequencer box, but instead of 4x16 pots + 1x16 Leds + 1x16 switch, I'd like to put a LED ontop of each potmeter (u know, MAQ- style ;-) ) Would this be of any use ? & would I really need the 16 switches, or could the potmeters take over this function too? Also, with this new PIC18F452, is it possible to have more tracks (e.g. 8 or more?) ? thanks for any help, cheers

They are an OK company. I'm from Belgium I had some email correspondence with a lady from there about some confusing request from my part. She was very friendly & helpful. I made the order on March 27th & it arrived today, April 10. (non express mail) They even added a little pack of gummibears-candy. (As an Easter-present I suppose, so hurry if you also want those :) The quality of the manufactured part is excellent.