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Hi there again! I'm still planning to build that LC Clone... and I'm getting confused. Has anybody seen something like a Tutorial "How to build your LC Clone"? Or can somebody make one? I'm a little confused about all that buttons and so on. Still in the middle of that. *If* I manage to build that thing on myself, you can be sure, I'll write some tutorial, cause its kinda hard to come in there on the launch.

Hey TK, just finished building my SID (so far with two 6581). Plugged it in and played it. The first time I checked if I hadnt accidentally played my Virus B. Dammit no! It was that SID! Really rocking piece! Now for some questions: - sometimes if you trigger a note, the SID is playing it kinda false. Kinda very disharmonic. If you retrigger the same note, its still there. If you hit another one, its ok again. Whats that? - With longer Attacks and other things (like pitchchange), it can happen, that the SID "clicks", again: huh? - I tried out to get an external sound in there (with the Audio In). I hardly heard it on full volume (was a Rm1x Phone Out). What input specs are needed? btw: I did switch to external input already. Just wanted to let you know these problems. But still: SID's rocking well!!!

Yes, big welcome from my side, too! :) But one question: What do you want to do with a 1U rack? You just can fit 8 pots hardly in there. Not mentioning the buttons and the LCD... ??? Mini MB?

That looks interesting. Keep us online! Thnx.

@d2k: Damn, youre all living in cold places, dont you? ;D Thnx for the picture! @basta: Just take the power out of the main core (the two connectors in the upper left of the PCB) and connect them to the other cores. The other cores then dont need the bridge recitifier, the caps directly before and after the 7805 (I *think* 3 smaller ones and the big one) and the 7805 itself, they dont have any use anymore. But this time you have to take care about the polarity.

;D ;D ;D yeah... damnit rocking 24bit SID ... Â ;D /edit: just checked the availabilities of the ICs and so on at Reichelt. Only bad news: None of the needed ICs there...... gasp .... also one of the inductivities and the correct form of the "Klinkenstecker" (english ? ;D ) are missing. You have to get them all at Farnell or so. *gasp again*

;D ;D ;D yeah... damnit rocking 24bit SID ... Â ;D /edit: just checked the availabilities of the ICs and so on at Reichelt. Only bad news: None of the needed ICs there...... gasp .... also one of the inductivities and the correct form of the "Klinkenstecker" (english ? ;D ) are missing. You have to get them all at Farnell or so. *gasp again*

Yep, you would need nearly the same circuit as it is used on the Core PCB. Meaning filtering everything again with caps and so on. By putting in the normal transformer voltage to the 7809 without anything else you have a nice candle again... ;D candle and heater... nice ... OK, without fun: Thats because the out of the transformer also has negative potentials, what again the 7809 cant work out good. What I would recommend is get a regulated power supply at 7-10 V and about 500-1000 mA (I would stick to the 1000 cause of the motorfaders). btw: Thnx for the "Thnxs" ;D

cos u would make it better ;D ;D ;D ;) *only fun*

Nope, no AOUT (yet?). With a digitally out its kinda stupid to realize something like that. You would have to get the DOUTs working as pseudo bits (e.g. 7 Outs as 7 Bits for a solution of 128 steps) having the proper resistors and/or diodes at the outs for regulating the brightness of the LEDs. Another soultion would be to have several MIDI to CV devices and then using a VCA as stated above.

If you would have read the rest: ;) Its some schematic which was in Elektor December 2002. Its a digital soundcard hookes up to USB Port. analog in and out, SPDIF in and out. The drivers can be downloaded at the Elektor site. You *could* use that as a SID to SPDIF (or USB) module, but that was just a idea, you know. The output of the SID is naturally analog, so u just hook it up to the USB soundcard and voila... The schematic is kinda easy, but I think there will be problems with the parts. Like I said: I´ll check it out the next days.

If you would have read the rest: ;) Its some schematic which was in Elektor December 2002. Its a digital soundcard hookes up to USB Port. analog in and out, SPDIF in and out. The drivers can be downloaded at the Elektor site. You *could* use that as a SID to SPDIF (or USB) module, but that was just a idea, you know. The output of the SID is naturally analog, so u just hook it up to the USB soundcard and voila... The schematic is kinda easy, but I think there will be problems with the parts. Like I said: I´ll check it out the next days.

Something new: In the next days I will phone or mail Mike and ask him, if he can make the PCBs. The question: Who would be interested in a PCB from mike? If I can tell Mike that enough people of UCapps will buy this thing, I´m sure he will make a good deal for us! I will also check the avaibility of the parts in the next days (Reichelt). @TK: *IF* Mike would make the PCBs, would you be interested to put the schematic and so on on your page? I mean, you could use that as a somewhat like SID to SPDIF module... or so ... ;) Everything is already done, so why not?

Something new: In the next days I will phone or mail Mike and ask him, if he can make the PCBs. The question: Who would be interested in a PCB from mike? If I can tell Mike that enough people of UCapps will buy this thing, I´m sure he will make a good deal for us! I will also check the avaibility of the parts in the next days (Reichelt). @TK: *IF* Mike would make the PCBs, would you be interested to put the schematic and so on on your page? I mean, you could use that as a somewhat like SID to SPDIF module... or so ... ;) Everything is already done, so why not?

3 4 ??? (in Worten: VIERUNDDREISSIG ????) Was hast du vor, sag mal? Willst du dein Auto damit anschieben? ;)

Errrr.... Sorry, but Ive gotta another opinion: ??? Yes, one power supply is certainly OK. The LCD backlight uses up the most power (about 150-250 mA - as bright as you want it). BUT: As the 7805 only takes up to 1 A at all, its absolutely not neccesary to get a 1,5 A supply. 1 A is absolutely OK. If you put in 12-18 V into the 7805 youve got some pretty nice heater. Damn hot heater to be exact. I would go down to 7-10V as TK said. Thats absolutely enough. Going to higher voltages will only make the 7805 hotter and shutting down. IF you use 12-18 V supply (I think you need it for the motorfaders) use a 7809 before the 7805 to get the voltage down and for heavens sake use a heat sink. Hope I got nothing wrong there. :P

Sorry TK, had no time up to now. Gonna be some while, but I will post them definitely... later... ;D

Sorry TK, had no time up to now. Gonna be some while, but I will post them definitely... later... ;D

Just make it the easy way: Build a Rack-and-Desktop Version like I did. If I want to be in the rack, its there. If I want it directly in front of me, its there. I regret that I dont have any photos up to now, but its easy to build. Just a desktop version with rack angles to the side.

Nope, not at the moment. If you use it, you will only see weird stuff (tried it out). Nothing to do there... There should come up a new version of the midimon to make it compatible with MIOS. And as MIOS is compatible to all LCDs (or nearly all), there you will be able to use also a 16x4. But as TK is more than busy at the moment (THNX for that Step B SID !!!!!!!!! God bless MIOS&MBs) it´s likely to be a long time until a upgrade for Midimon will come out. You can also read my thread about problems with the Midimon, there is more bout this. Just search for me & Midimon.

... yesssss ... already built 3 SID-modules, having two cores. Guess what Im bulding next... ... yes again ... *happyjumpinginmyroom*

For the 1.: There are 3 pins at the pots. Measure the resistance at the outer two ones. It should be at 10kOhm. But 4,7k and 47k should also be OK, also 10k is just the best. Then measure from one of the outer pins to the middle one. Rotate the poti. It should be a linear one, meaning that the resistance grows linear with the rotation (so at 12 o´clock you should have 5k). If the resistance is growing (or decreasing) fast on the one and slow on the other side of rotation, you´ve gotta logarithmic one, which is not so good to use in an MB. For the 2.: Yeah, you´re right, the mixer ones. ;) You can use nearly all faders, the only thing is the price. There are some for 1.50 Euros around, and some for 20 Euros. The only thing, I would recommend, use one with metall housing. Theyre smoother normally. The best you can do, is trying them out. But normally, if you take some for an average price, you´ll get good results. Also look at ebay, there are often old pots and faders at good quality and the hack less money than somewhere else.

The cap measuring is normally done with frequency tests. A certain frequency goes in, the cap is pulled down to ground with a resistor and voila, you have a low pass filter. The capacity is then just measured by the loose of voltage. For scavenging: I really do think that its only worth it for a little more expensive parts. I did scavenge stuff also, but: Resistors, LEDs, diodes and transistors are so cheap that ordering them is just much less work. Pots, switches and so on are worth being scavenged, cause theyre just more expensive. Be carefull with scavenging caps. Especially electrolytic caps. First, they get melted very easily, and second, if they were not used for a long time (about 5 or more years) it *can* (although really seldom) happen, that they blow up although you have putted them in with the rigth polarity. Hope I could help you.

Did you pull the case to ground? Maybe a stupid question, but whatever, you know.

Okay, thnx a lot! Thats just all minor problems. I think I can live with them. ;D Im already using it...