pay_c

d2k is right with that. I built my pots in there with a space of 25x25mm. The 4mm pots of Reichelt are nearly as robust as the 6mm ones. All knobs at Reichelt are fitting on the pots at Reichelt. No shaped ones there.

For the pots: I think the ones at Reichelt with 4mm diameter are better than the 6mm ones (theyre also lighter to move) . They dont use up to much room, so you can built the whole thing a little more compact. The Aluknobs at Reichelt (for 4mm diameter) are very fine! *Gotta make some pictures*

Yepp!!! Would be cool, if we could give you at least *something* back for all that stuff youre doing there! Dammit, I never could be thinking of building my *own* USB MIDI device!

Im using them, too. Theyre very cool. The click-feeling is very pregnant and nice. You can mount them next to each other on a circuit board. The measures are (about) 17,5mm to 12,5 mm. So for 16 pots in a row (MB64SEQ ;D ) exactly 200mm. The leds are fitting in there perfectly. I think theyre a very good (also a little more expensive) solution.

Just take the schematics for the DINX4 (also the circuit board) and let the 3 higher ICs out... I guess. :) It's really like that.

:-/ A few possibilities, I can think of: 1. You *could* have had some short circuit and so burned out the ICs of your LCD. bad... 2. The connections of the circuit board to the LCD (I mean THE circuit board of the LCD) have been moved - happens seldomly, but could be. If the LCD shows nothing, I dont think its that. But anyhow: Open up the LCD (removing the metall thing there), and clean those plastic or rubber like two things there and put them in again exactly as you removed it. Just take care of putting them in again really central. Put the metall thing on again (has to be kinda tight!!). *Could help* 3. Connect this LCD to some other appl., if it works there, it's weird. Hmmm... thinking of more poss.. Will write again. *thinking...*

Forget that. As long as we are not talking about mV (e.G. in sensor technics), the resistance of the flux is muuuuch more than enough.

Yeah, certainly, but I meant without switching the Pic or the firmware. ::)

btw: Thats some good idea... building the SID also. Those holes are already there and I didnt see them. :P Cool, thnx d2k

Perhaps some really stupid question. Anyhow: Can you use the MB64SEQ still as a normal MB64? Doesn´t look like. Third Midibox loomin if not...

Thnx TK. btw: How were the holidays? Â ;D Welcome back home!

What else to say but: 8) :D Don´t you get bored with the time of all those "You´re the best, TK" postings? Anyhow: You are the best, TK! ;D

OMG !!  :o WOW! This IS definetely THE Midibox of the year! Gotta put this baby to the front page, TK! just a big WOW Hey Axel: MANY questions! Cool buttons! How did you make them? They dont look like they were just cut out. And the LED light is coming from the back/side? Where did you get those pot knobs? Theyre just perfect for those LED rings. Is there some plexiglass in front of the LCDs or is it just cut out? AND: I know, thats a big question: Would you PLS make a small tutorial about this baby? Not all those electronic stuff, but the mechanical. PLS post more pics, if you have some. I´m especially interested in the Howto (do those buttons, drilling, the case (!!)). DAMMIT, thats so much better than this shitty original Logic Control! Its some kinda babe!! Big Respect!! You can also send me the pictures to my email, if you want to. Just a PM to me. *outofcontrol* I´m burning to try some of that stuff on my future SIDs and midiboxes. /edit: also wanna know: where did you get these play/stop buttons?

Great one, DRM! thnx! Also I see you didnt use my schematic. :'( ;) Gotta try that with my next midibox

Hi there folks!! Some questions about the MidiMon: I built it now and got (some) problems: - The Midiclock Range of my Midimon just goes up to 0:99:..:.. Im sending the Midiclock with Cubase. Its just counting up very fine and then sotps at 99 for values over 100. The beats although are still count up normally. Is that normal?? With the SMPTE its working fine. -If Im switching to the mode, where all the controls are written out (e.g. "cutoff" instead of " Ctrl. 48") it seems to me, like there is one letter to much, and the end of the bargraph comes in again on the first letter of the next line. - I do think this is normal, but just to go sure: When Im scrolling up to older values (with those up/down triggers), I can just go up to "-C". Is that allright, not more? And also the value (e.g. "-A") is shown right in the upper right corner overwriting the text there. Also normal? If you say, all´s working fine, I gonna put it in its housing right away. Regards pay.c

@LO: But youre not putting the outcoming 12V of the SID directly to the 7805 of the core, do you? Or even the 15V (???)? If you do: Try putting another 7809 before the 7805 (you dont need all those caps for the 7809 - the 7805 caps are enough). Hope I could help you.

Whats also a point (*if* you dont have a CNC to hand :) ) is having a Dremel probably. It´s costing about 30-60 Euros, but in most cases there are a lot of tools already inside and the max speed is at about 15000-30000 rpm. Drilling the holes with a normal Accu-Driller is more or less shitty, because you always *will* break (even the carbide) bits from time to time. Might come handy, too.

Or just print it out and put on some pieces (like IC-Connectors, Ribbon cable connectors). Scale it then, if needed.

I agree, Ribbon cables (20 poles or so) are really good. you can always put 2 wires to one (so you have 10 signal ways). This way you can use those "Pfostensteckverbinder" (German word -> english?? Ribbon connectors??). Fast and secure way. btw: long distance means over at least 1 meter. So nearly never in a case (also the case is shielded good against exterior disturbances, so you can count with 1 1/2 at least).

A Sh** Just painted the pic, and then found out, that I dont have any webspace to bring it in here... OK, then just a text form: Needing: Trigger (with Ground,Open and Closed Conn.), 2 pull-up resistors (10k I would say), one FlipFlop (not two, as I thought first) Just connect the trigger as following: the middle conn. is connected to ground the both others (opened and closed conns) are connected to pull-up resistors (e.g. 10k), which are going up to e.g. 5V The opened conn. goes to the inverted SET of the FlipFlop The closed conn. goes to the inv. RESET of the FlipFlop The Q (not inverted) of the FlipFlop now provides some voltage, which is not gaggling around anymore. Its not so important if you connect the Open Conn. to SET or RESET. Its then just putting out 5V if you just pushed the trigger or just went off it. *Hoping* that my bad electronic-english isnt tooo bad anyhow. Also hope, that I helped you, if not, just send me your email, I`ll send you the schematic then. pay_c

@drDRM: Thats an easy one, I got a schematic just in front of me using two flipflops (or 2 NANDs). You just need a trigger with *both* open and closed contact. Hold on, I´ll try to paint it shortly. (dont laugh!!! ;D )

I understand TK with that one. You *could* do all that (more or less) cool stuff, but its so damn much work to do all that. Did anybody of you ever try to design and programm a whole synthi? I did, and I can tell you, I`ll try it again, when I got loooong holidays. We should be just thankful for TK´s great work up to now and pray to god (or whoever), that he keeps it up. He´s still over the MB64 Seq, the SID Control Unit and some other stuff. Try it yourself just once! It´s damn hard time-intensive! So: Also you hear that every day, TK: --< THNX !!! >---

I understand TK with that one. You *could* do all that (more or less) cool stuff, but its so damn much work to do all that. Did anybody of you ever try to design and programm a whole synthi? I did, and I can tell you, I`ll try it again, when I got loooong holidays. We should be just thankful for TK´s great work up to now and pray to god (or whoever), that he keeps it up. He´s still over the MB64 Seq, the SID Control Unit and some other stuff. Try it yourself just once! It´s damn hard time-intensive! So: Also you hear that every day, TK: --< THNX !!! >---

Hi there again! Wondering where to buy good (studio like) Joystick and Ribbon Controllers. (For the Ribbon Controllers: I mean the 2D (like a touchscreen without screen :) )not the normal 1D long ones) Searched in google, but only found stupid stuff (like ready made synthies - :P ) Would be grateful for any suggestions.

Hi again! Planning to build my *first* ( ;D ) SID - more certainly coming up (I have 3 6581 at the moment). For the Control Unit: Can I use the Rotary Encoder sold @ Reichelt? Is it without "mechanische Rasterung" as TK said in UCApps? If not: Where can I get one (elsewhere than RS or so)? Do not tell me to buy it at ebay! ;)