Wilba
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Posts posted by Wilba
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Oh crud... Who has a good linear wall-wart?
Consider this:
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I upload MIOS to the PIC before packing into sammichSID kits (and even watch it boot up and show the "READY." on the LCD) so I don't know how you got a PIC without MIOS. Bizarre.
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This is a switchmode power supply. I can tell from the pixels and from seeing quite a few switchmode power supplies in my time. The input voltage range (100 - 240V AC) clearly gives it away.
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Technician4: If you absolutely must add a fan, note that the amount of noise the fan adds to the power rails (and thus the audio output) will vary a lot. For me, the nicest looking 40mm translucent fan with red LED inside was a real noisy bitch compared to the simple and cheaper black one. Also, it's probably best to get one that runs at slow revs on 12V and power it directly from your regulated 12V power supply (i.e. take power at J1 header). This will mean the current used is not supplied from the regulators inside the sammichSID, just like using JBL set to "12V" to supply the LCD backlight with power from the input, not via the regulators.
I think you would be better served attaching some heatsinks to your 6581 SIDs to keep them cooler, it's unlikely you'll cook the regulators with only ~300mA passing through them at a regulated 12V DC input (i.e. rough calc. of 12V-5V=7V, 7V*0.3A=2.1W heat dissipated through heatsinks, this calc. is a guestimate, some heat is dissipated through the two power diodes).
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While there is no LED to show the state of "Edit Mode", it definitely does toggle "Edit Mode" on/off if you hold down SHIFT and press the down arrow.
"Edit Mode" is not the only way changes get saved, you can explicitly save via the "SAV" menu. Using "Edit Mode" can lead to accidentally messing up your patches and losing the original patch, which is why explicit saving is preferred.
I haven't played around much with setting parameters via NRPN, but I'm pretty sure if you can see the param changed in the menu, it should be saved in the patch via explicit saving or via "Edit Mode". Also, "Edit Mode" only saves when you change the patch, it's not saving the params continuously after each change, etc.
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Im Land der Blinden, der Mann mit einem Auge ist König. :pirate:
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:frantics:
You're not the first to make that mistake.
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Email me so I can arrange a replacement.
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You can also reuse pins from a low-profile IC socket.
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That has some serious DIY charm... awesome!
Can you post photos of the inside? I'd like to see how you built the box and mounted everything.
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Which PIC burner and PIC burning software are you using?
Are you sure you're burning the correct ID onto the PICs?
Could this be some issue with PIC ID=0 working and ones with a different ID not working?
Check which bootloader you are burning, it should be bootloader_v1_2b_pic18f4685.hex
Similarly, check which MIOS you are trying to upload (not burn), it should be mios_v1_9g_pic18f4685.hex
Keep testing using the same Core each time, and maybe even trying to burn PIC ID=0 onto all four PICs when you burn the bootloader. After MIOS is installed on all four PICs, you can use another app to change the PIC ID to something different, or just burn again with PIC ID=1,2,3
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Hi. I built a MB6582 baseboard. I think it's Rev. 1. It's red, but it doesn't say what rev. it is, which leads me to believe it's 1.
FWIW it should say "Base PCB Revision 2" in the top-left corner.
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It's by design, because it's hooked into the internal data of the synth engine running on the master PIC, not just displaying patch settings, which the master PIC has access to for all four SID engines.
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Also, I got your PM but I'm on holiday and left my debugging mindstate at home. So, it's better to post your problems here so everyone can help sooner.
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I'm very sad to hear of your loss. :sad:
If there's anything I can do to help, let me know.
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BTW sammichSID power supply circuit has nothing to do with "Sid V2 optimized PSU schem".
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A few other things - I touched up a few solder joints around this part of the board. No obvious bridges or shorts. Also I happened to have labeled the 7809 and the 7805 on the visible side and so I can confirm they are correctly stuffed. I checked the small heatsink for the 7809 and it has no connectivity with the rest of the board. However, the large heatsink is connected to ground. I don't know if this matters or not. It is not connected to any of the 5V, 9V or 12V lines.
It's OK if the heatsink is electrically connected to ground, this is happening via the screw/nut, and the metal part of TO-220 package positive voltage regulators are connected to the middle (common) pin, which should be at ground.
This is probably not the issue but it's the only thing I can think of. There are four holes for C6, two inner holes and two outer holes. The Build Guide shows the leads of C6 going into the outer holes, and that's what I've done. Some of the solder dribbled over into an inner hole and I am having a hell of a time getting it out. There are a number of other points on the board where this issue crops up. I am actually a passable solderer and have yet to have a soldering issue come up on any of my builds, plus I can see some places on the board such as C7R where the inner hole and outer hole appear to share a common metal border by design. So I assume this isn't an issue because the inner and outer holes are already bridged, but just thought I would mention it.
The capacitor footprints have two pads/holes for each lead. As you already observed, they're connected, so it doesn't matter if the unused hole is filled with solder. The extra pads/holes are so either 50mil and 100mil lead spacing capacitors can be fitted.
As for the voltage problem, I am a bit puzzled... voltage regulators really shouldn't be outputting more voltage than their rating. They can output less, if the input voltage isn't high enough, but more? WTF? :D I'm guessing here, but one way it might appear to be higher is if you're measuring using the black probe on something "lower" than the common pin of the voltage regultator... i.e. I think if you stick a resistor between a voltage regulator common pin and ground, the output will be higher than its rating relative to ground.
Can you test the voltages directly between the middle pin and each of the other two pins of the voltage regulators? i.e. the input and output voltages directly at the voltage regulator pins. Maybe this will be different to your other measurements.
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There is no 12V regulator in sammichSID, which is why you must use regulated 12V DC only when using 6581.
It sounds like your problem is too much current draw when using SIDs. Test this by installing only one SID and see if you get it to boot.
You should tell us what power supply you are using... maybe take a photo of the specs on the "plug" part.
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OK I'll take just 60 black/transparent now, get the rest in the next bulk order.
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Count me in for 3000pcs Drehknopf DK16-190V3 A.6/4,5 AT=14 schwarz soft-transparent klar (transparent on black)
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Are you sure that power supply isn't switchmode? I thought the enercell ones were switchmode, and would make a lot of noise on the audio.
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1) Don't install the v1 app on a v2 system running on PIC18F4685s. That won't work. A diesel engine doesn't like running on regular gasoline either.
Surely a better analogy is trying to run a Mac program on Windows 7? :tongue:
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Reread. I said people bitch about postage costs, not that they bitch about sourcing parts for themselves.
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I can't believe how excited people get from saving a few Euro and depriving SmashTV of a few bucks for his efforts of finding the best parts that fit the PCB... and how much you people bitch about high postage costs. Get over it, already. This is a hobby (or should be), and a pretty cheap one compared to others, and you'd rather waste your time sourcing parts locally instead of just get the good stuff from SmashTV.
I think I should recommend SmashTV double his Core32 PCB price and offer free parts kits as an optional extra.
SammichSID power supply on ebay
in MIDIbox SID
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I recommend to all builders to keep the backlight pot set to half-way or less... the pot is 50K, changed from official Core spec of 10K, so there is some real current limiting... also there is a header/shunt for powering "high-power" LCD backlights from input power. So in my experience, a 12V AC 500mA power supply is OK, and if you turn the brightness up too much, the current draw will cause voltage to sag and the PIC will reboot (or not boot).
When the PSU is regulated, you can choose a higher current rating without any concern, but for unregulated PSUs, going higher than 500mA causes more problems, input voltage will be much higher, thus the voltage regulators will need to dissipate more heat (and powering the backlight from input power becomes more fault-prone).
TK, maybe you should turn your LCD brightness down a bit... :thumbsup: