Wilba

damn you stryd, yet another expensive toy I didn't know I wanted until now... :-)

In case you haven't seen this before: http://www.jahtari.org/magazine/sid/sid-history.htm Scroll down to see the "X-ray picture of the SID" ;D

I use an "experimenters" board exactly like that picture, I also have a little one which is handy. The big one comes with lots of wires of different lengths, very useful. They are excellent for experimenting (hence the name). I've never had problems with digital circuits, and I think analog circuits are fine too, I think they only have issues with RF transmitter/receiver circuits due to the components not being close together. As you can see in the pic, there are multiple power rails and the good/bad thing is that each power rail is not connected to the others - you have to explicitly connect them to each other and to your power supply circuit. I highly recommend them for experimenting, because it's so quick to get something going, and easy to change things later, it's not permanent, nothing is wasted (not even solder!). It's the Lego of electronics. Get one. My big tip for using these boards: You get a single row header and solder wires/ribbon cable to the bottom. Then you can stick the header into the experimenters board. Great for power supply wires, connecting the board to a Core, etc. Similarly, you can solder two single row headers together to use as a female-to-female adapter to connect header connectors to the board.

C64 board für Verkauf in Deutschland. SID chip spottbillig für Deutsche :-) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8266187579&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:AU:1 Gruss, Wilba

If it is a "repairable" one like mine, a big black box with vents, it already has a 5v regulator with a massive heatsink. Open it up and have a look.

kokoon: thanks for your input. There are so many combinations of pitch, waveform and filter that it might be tedious and not really that useful. I was thinking of two kinds of benchmark, one kind is just a pure test of the oscillators/filters working, the other kind a demo of a given patch. Maybe the pure tests consist of a single patch and all you do is play a note , although you could repeat the test with different notes (one per octave or something). Waveform Test #1 - a wavetable that plays the each waveform combination in sequence on oscillator 1, then repeats again on osc 2 and osc 3. Waveform Test #2 - a pulse waveform on oscillator 1 only, modulated by a slow LFO. Filter Test #1 - a wavetable that switches between each of the filter options and resonance 0/127. Cutoff modulated by a slow LFO. These are pretty basic, and what I do manually to test my SIDs. What I was hoping for was some SID guru to come up with a more musical demo kind of thing - i.e. a patch and a sequence they think shows off the SID (with cool filter use) that a newbie can listen to and compare to the same patch/sequence played on their own SID. Sort of like the demo samples that TK put on the MIDIbox SID page.

I've been thinking about a ribbon controller myself... the reverse side of Mini DV tape is a good resistor (but fairly high resistance, 100K per cm!) One thing to be wary of with these ribbon controllers - if you are using them as a simple voltage divider, like a slide or rotary pot, the first major difference is that the "wiper" can be off the strip, the SECOND major difference is that the "wiper" is not just one point - you can touch at multiple places and "short" up to the entire strip. That is, you can touch at the start and end of the strip and effectively short your power rails. It is unlikely you will intentionally do this, but it might happen accidentally. To fix difference #1, you can do it the simple way (I'm guessing here, unproven) - ground the wiper through a big resistor. That should stop the jitter, and when your finger is off, AIN input should be zero. If the resistor value is much, much greater than the strip resistance then its effect of reducing the resistance of the strip between the wiper contact and ground will be minimal. The more complex way is doing something fancy like this: http://www.paia.com/LabNotes/index.htm To fix difference #2, if you don't mind sacrificing a little of the range, put some small resistors between each power rail and the strip ends, so that making a "short" across the entire strip still will go through these resistors instead of shorting the power rails. Or, do it the fancy way (see above link).

It might be interesting to set something up that lets people compare the sound of their SID chips with others. The aim would be to combine a set of benchmarks (patch + MIDI sequence) that will drive the SID (i.e. filter sweeps, sync, ring mod, testing each oscillator, etc). It could even be interesting to listen to (like TK's demo MP3s). Then people could share an MP3 recording of a publicly available (and constant) benchmark for others to listen to. Thus people who are building or have built a MBSID can: - test their own SID is working and performing well (oscillators all work, filter works) - compare a SID with other SIDs (their own or other MBSID users) - hear the differences between SID revisions and filter cap choices. - let builders make an informed choice of which SIDs they prefer and should try to obtain (6581 vs. 8580) - let synth newbies (like me) learn from the gurus about filters, how the capacitors affect the sound, what makes a good sounding SID, how the 6581 and 8580 filters are different (why there are different preset patches for each), etc. Obviously, some MBSID veteran needs to kickstart this process, and we can't ask TK to do everything, so the call is out for someone else to name the first benchmark. Keep it simple, one patch loaded into A1, record a short sequence on channel 1 to a MIDI file, include some parameter sweeps, or maybe something you know sounds different between the SIDs you have. In case it is not obvious, I volunteer to setup and host the benchmarks, but I'm not the best person to name them. Sidebar: The makers of HardSID would put SID chips in four "classes" using some some testing processes... http://www.hardsid.com/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=11 An ad-hoc benchmark system could perform the same function for the MBSID community.

Don't waste your money. Great prices, cheap postage: http://www.futurlec.com

I tried a fresh BankStick, it formats all 128 patches, still switches to bank "H" when I plug it in, even though I only have one BankStick connected to address 0 (all address pins grounded). It appears as if I can't upload patches, or even get patches out of the BankStick with the MIDIbox Patch Manager app. I uploaded patches to the BankStick without a problem in an older version of MBSID, so I don't think it is circuit related (i.e. I've made the MIOS 1.7 hardware changes already, and I get the "pliiing" sound). I now have realised that I have a 24LC512, not a 24LC256. Is it the same as this issue? http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=5730.msg35248#msg35248

After pulling out my Core + SID modules from over a year ago and reinstalling the latest MIOS and SID app, it boots nicely and shows the first screen. I recall it used to read "P 1 C 1 1---" and now reads "A 1 C 1 1---". When I plug in my BankStick (which should contain patches from a LONG time ago) the "A" becomes an "H", and I get the "brrrring" sound. I don't think the old patches are there, as it stays on "Internal Patch" even if I change patch with MIOS Studio's keyboard. I also get the "brrrooop" sound when I unplug the BankStick. I just wanted confirmation (since I can't find answers in the doco): Does the "A" mean 1st BankStick, and when I plug in my BankStick, it goes to "H" because it thinks I've plugged in a BankStick in the 8th position??? (Even though all my address pins on the BankStick are grounded, i.e. A=0) Or does "H" mean something else?

I hooked it up to a Core, looks fantastic! So much better than an LCD in negative mode. Great contrast - the black is truly BLACK. Wiring note: Connect to Core as usual, but connect the contrast pot output (J15:V0) to the brightness control input (VBT, pin 3), thus letting you set VBT voltage in the range 2.5v-3.0v. Don't connect J15:B+ and J15:B- to anything - there is no backlight! Tweak the contrast pot until you see the display - if VBT is <2.5v you won't see anything!

Just picked up a 20x2 character display - part # WP2002A (WP2002A-Y-JCS) from Crest Technologies http://www.cresttech.com.au AU$27.50, over the counter, from their warehouse in Nunawading, Vic. Looks identical to Crystalfontz CFAP2002A-Y-ECS http://www.crystalfontz.com/products/CFAP2002M/index.html and has practially identical datasheet to this one: http://www.spezial.de/doc/winsta/wp2002ayjcs.pdf Aussies will find them cheaper than Crystalfontz - possibly only AU$11 postage.

I would buy SID chips if I could... but... In case anyone has a spare SID chip, or is willing to salvage one from C64s you can get your hands on (that I can't), I can trade for rotary encoders and 3mm blue LEDs (opaque blue plastic) and which are hard to come by for some (I had to buy in bulk). I will pay for all shipping. So if you need a lot of rotary encoders and blue LEDs for the price of a C64 on eBay, let me know.

The master and all slaves must share the same baud rate, so the "to-COM" interface bit must be the same for the master and all the slaves, or the slaves won't receive the MIDI from the master.

The output ratings are the same as mine, and the same as the specifications (see below). Double-check the voltages with a multimeter, just in case. There seems to be great variation in C64 power supplies, which makes sense since they're usually country-specific. My one is a black box with ventilation slots, huge transformer and a 7805 regulator with a massive (and I mean massive) heatsink. The schematics show that the older ones used a transistor to regulate voltage (apparently the transistor and 300k resistor can be replaced with a 7805). http://www.funet.fi/pub/cbm/schematics/computers/c64/c64extps.gif

Don't go crazy trying to make single row header connectors with a pair of pliers. Buy yourself a cheap crimping tool and follow this simple guide: The Art of Crimping http://www.seetron.com/apps/app_connectors.html Those fiddly little pins will fit nicely into the plastic housing and you'll save time too.

Correction: There are no stupid questions, only stupid people. (In no way am I suggesting anyone here is stupid) Wilba

A pull-up resistor holds an input pin high if the pin isn't connected to anything (ie. connected to an open switch is the same thing). If the pin is brought low by a switch to ground or a low output pin, then current flows from the positive rail through the pull-up resistor to ground/low output pin. Thus 10K is used because it's low current (0.5 mA @ 5V). The cheapest, ceramic 1/4 watt 5% tolerance ones are fine. And if you pay more than US$0.01 each for them, you're getting ripped off. Best to order in bulk from Futurlec and get the chips for US$0.35 too.

Piku: Keep the SID station. The community needs someone with a SID station and a MIDIbox SID, so they can help convert SID station patches to MIDIbox SID.

Perhaps you are right... Futurlec are probably the best ones to petition. In case people didn't know, they ship stuff straight out of Bangkok, so they are in a prime position to import ALPS parts from the factory, and they seem to specialize in upmarket hobbyists like us (they stock PIC18F452 chips, serial EEPROMs, etc.) PLUS their shipping is cheap. I am on good terms with the Futurlec sales manager (having emailed him in the past a few times) so if there aren't any objections, I can write him an email regarding this idea.

This guy is selling 8580R5 SID chips on eBay --> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3084109537&category=12949&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT&rd=1 (It looked like DriftZ bought the last one he sold!) He's in Germany (Hannover), I'm in Australia, and I need help with the transaction. I emailed him and he can send me two (maybe more) chips for 7 Euro each. But he does not accept Paypal and it costs too much to pay him with bank drafts in foreign currency. Is anyone willing to help me out with this (preferably a German speaker living in Europe)? They can get their own chips in the same order (I will pay for postage). I will even send them some tinted blue 3mm LEDs to return the favour. Gruss, Wilba

Switches Plus (www.switchesplus.com.au) stock encoders... I was after the ALPS 16mm non-detented "audio-feeling" ones (model EC16B24304) but they said ALPS suggest the newer, smaller ones. From Switches Plus, I picked up ALPS tactile switches with long shafts, (model SKHHDH) I think the same that TK used on his SID... 10-99 = AU$0.44, 100+ = AU$0.34 (plus GST) I didn't get an encoder quote but I reckon the price will be relatively good. I could probably arrange a bulk order if there are enough interested in getting a decent number for a good price, ie. I'm not going to bother them for anything less than a 100+ order, because they may have to import them. Post here with the number of encoders you need... don't forget to add a couple more spares. Once the numbers hit 80 or so, I'll arrange a deal, people can pay me via Paypal. This offer is not exclusive to Aussies - if you're willing to pay the postage to your country, come on board. ** UPDATE ** Specs are here: http://wilba.lowerdimension.com/EC12E122_0511.pdf The deal is for the EC12E244, vertical type, no switch (that's my choice only because it seems the best one to get, it might not be available).

Yeah... I vote for per-geographical-area forums... so us Aussies/New Zealanders can share tips and arrange bulk orders. Maybe TK can add a sticky thread to each one in which users can post their location... people could get a feel for who is around you and watching that forum. But TK has a point: collective orders can span countries too, as does a PIC burning service. Maybe another forum dedicated to these two topics? Another concept which I'd like to raise: some people just cannot find some parts locally or even get them shipped to their country... ie. I can't get stuff from Reichelt. (My personal can't-get item is large vectorboard!) Are some people willing to get parts delivered to them and re-ship to others? Perhaps that can be combined with their own order so that the favour is repayed by paying the shipping costs of their own order. Or maybe repayed with a share of a bulk order. It seems to me that this whole community is willing to share ideas and give their time helping others in their endeavours - so this is just an extension of that... helping those who can't get what they need. So maybe a forum just for that would be really helpful: collective orders, reshipping favours, PIC burning, etc.

:) Lucky you... we could have been bidding against each other! Everyone else, be nice and don't outbid Hermes!