Wilba

OPL3 (MB-FM) Chipset Bulk Order #3 is CLOSED. If you want some OPL3 chipsets, order now, while stocks last. 100 sets are being ordered now. Approximate price is US$10 (AU$12.50) for one set (1x YMF262, 2x YAC512). For any quantity, postage will be US$2 (AU$2.50) worldwide. HOW TO ORDER Running the MB-6582 PCB bulk order and selling SIDs has now made me intolerant of people who can't follow simple instructions, reply to their emails within a few days, or don't sent PayPal payments. So there are now three simple rules: 1. If you don't have the cash, don't waste my time with an order. An order means "I can pay now", not "I can pay when I get paid next month". 2. After emailing an order, you are expected to check your emails daily and make a PayPal payment as soon as you receive a payment request. 3. Email your order exactly as described so I can easily copy and paste the details into a spreadsheet. That means, no labels, no blank lines, no address all on one line, capital first letters, forgetting what country you live in, etc. Email your order to: Jason.S.Williams@gmail.com with email subject: OPL3 Chipset Bulk Order #3 The contents of the email should be (without labels!): your MIDIbox username your real name your postal address your COUNTRY (in capitals) your contact email address (same one you are using to email me) your PayPal email Address (the one you use for PayPal) your desired quantity of OPL3 "chipsets" (1x YMF262 + 2x YAC512) example: FunkyPunky Johannes Schmitt Oberammergaueralpenkräuterdelikatessenfrühstückskäse Str. 29 10997 Berlin GERMANY Johannes.Schmitt @gmx.de Johannes.Schmitt @gmx.de 8 there is absolutely no MONEY-BACK GUARANTEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!oneonelevenilsisghey I have actually tested one set in an MB-FM (see photo above), so they should work, they are the real-deal new-old-stock original Yamaha ICs. However, I can only assume they are all good and will work fine, I cannot test them before shipping and can't guarantee that they will work. They are more likely to work than ones you salvage from a sound card. If you bought a sound card on eBay "as-is" and desoldered the chips and they didn't work, you couldn't complain and try to get a refund from the eBay seller. Similarly, these chips are sold "as-is" in good faith that they work, without any guarantee or ability to refund or replace if they do not. If you do not like these terms then please do not order.

P.S. Those tactile switches you use look different and interesting, can you post a closeup photo and maybe link to where you got them, datasheet etc?

Sorry but you are not being specific enough, I don't know if you are referring to the 16x2 or the 20x4 20x4 LCD, Core 1, PIC #0 20x4 LCD, Core 2, PIC #0 20x4 LCD, Core 1, PIC #1 20x4 LCD, Core 2, PIC #1 16x2 LCD, Core 1, PIC #0 16x2 LCD, Core 2, PIC #0 16x2 LCD, Core 1, PIC #1 16x2 LCD, Core 2, PIC #1 Describe the output in each case. If none of these tests show a working LCD, then the problem is either a) firmware uploaded with "LCD doesn't work" feature (most unlikely, you said it worked once) b) multiple solder joint problems on more than one Core (unlikely) c) bad LCD cable on more than one LCD (unlikely) d) two busted LCDs (least unlikely) You see how it's all unlikely? Very strange. So you need to be very precise what combinations you tested and what the results are, or we're all fumbling in the dark with wild guesses.

Can you try connecting this LCD to a different Core (on the MB-6582) with same PIC, and same Core with a different PIC? This will help prove your problem is specific to the LCD or cable, or specific to the Core J15, or specific to the PIC. Explain more about how your other 16x2 LCD "[does] not get the same problems but I still don't get output on the screen." If you know this LCD works, try it on other Cores on the MB-6582.

Yeah, I had the opportunity to return them, so I did.

MB-6582 is just a set of boards that "run" the MIDIbox SID V2 application... so anything it does can be done with other boards/parts. The code that uses the top and bottom lines of 4x20 LCDs is in the application, you just need to change the configuration in the setup_*.asm and then compile a new .hex file. eg. you might start with setup_8580.asm as a base and then configure it to your actual hardware/wiring.

LOL... Santion HK is where I got my batch of remarked 8580s... or should I say, 8550... (that's the pic I used to convince Santion that they were remarked, but they kept stalling and then said their supplier says it was a "printing error" and they should be fine. I got burnt on that deal, because I didn't think they faked 8580 or 6582A. They do. Badly. The few I tested really were 8580 or 6582A and they worked. The 6581 were all dead. Luckily I had someone in China to return them for me personally, but I still lost the shipping costs :( Santion are now called Taiwan Anprosperous. Next week they might be called something else, though.

That looks better... still the LCD is quite close to the switches below... is the switch less than 10mm x 10mm at the base? Also, I find it a bit strange that you would spend so much on an FPE panel for a full control surface, and a rack mount case, and only put one Core/SID inside. Perhaps consider adding the SID 1,2,3,4 buttons to allow adding more SIDs later. IMHO buttons for features are more important than pretty logos and artwork. :)

Nice! I think you should check clearance between LCD and the buttons below, and encoder to right, and top edge of panel. I think a standard 2x20 LCD will overlap with the other components... just increasing the LCD cutout to the same height/width as a standard 2x20 LCD (116mm x 37mm) will show this. It's a good idea to place the LCD mount holes (or an outline of LCD's PCB) on the panel to check for these things, then you can delete them before ordering the panel.

SOLD!!!

...I forgot to say, if you use the DIN/DOUT modules in that way, then the wiring is up to you, although you could follow the default wiring for MB-SID. See User Manual: http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_sid_manual.html section "Hardware Options" (PDFs at bottom) eg. http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_sid_cs/mbsid_v2_din_default.pdf eg. http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_sid_cs/mbsid_v2_dout_default.pdf

If you want to create a control surface using the same common switch/LED matrix, see section "Control Surface Wiring" here: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_mb_6582 However, this might not be the best way for you, if you really only want a minimal control surface. The alternative is to use the DIN/DOUT modules at the bottom of the MB-6582 base PCB as "normal" DIN/DOUT modules, i.e. connect switches, encoders and LEDs directly to these.

One spare box of 96 encoders! $55.68 AUD plus shipping and PayPal fees. which is $86.37 AUD ($69.16 USD) includes shipping to USA/Canada and PayPal fee! or $93.20 AUD (52.79 EUR) includes shipping to Europe and PayPal fee! CALL NOW!!!

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm You are right - blue LEDs need more voltage to operate. If you can look at that webpage, if a red LED has a voltage drop of (eg.) 2V, then for 5V supply, there's 3V drop across the current limiting resistor. A blue LED typically has a 3.5V voltage drop, so a 1.5V drop across the resistor. Ohm's Law: V=IR Divide both sides by R: V/R=I if you halve V, then current will be halved. Your blue LED will probably get half the current the red LED would get, assuming 5V supply (pretty good assumption). If the supply is higher, it would get more than half. However, I would guess the TR626 would have old, cheap, not-so-bright red LEDs and you're replacing with a new, superbright blue LED, so it will probably be brighter even though it would get less current than a red LED.

You could use one dual-gang pot per SID... one pot for feedback, one for volume. The volume pot would then go between the SID output and the audio jack. i.e. if the feedback pot is wired A=SID output, B=SID input, C=ground, you want the volume pot wired A=ground, B=audio out jack, C=SID output. That way, if the feedback pot is fully turned to ground (no feedback), the volume pot would be at max volume. You can then insert a resistor in between pin A and ground, to adjust the minimum volume level when at full feedback. If you wanted half volume at max feedback, you'd use a resistor of the same value as the pot. BTW this is using linear pots so it might not be the right amount of volume at each feedback setting.

It doesn't matter if it's 100k or 500k, they both should have the same effect, taper, whatever... since my wiring is as a voltage divider, not as a variable resistor inserted in series with the audio output.

Of course you can clone SIDs, what I meant to say was, if these were cloned SIDs, there would be thousands available. They also would have a failure rate of about 1 in 1000. "They" have been remarking 6581s for a while, but I was pretty surprised when I first saw remarked 8580R5 and 6582A, as they don't work in SidStation and the only people really wanting these are a fairly small community of SID fanatics (MIDIbox, MSSIAH, Prophet64, HardSID, etc).

Yes it's possible. If using module PCBs, you would need to use two DINx4 modules and one DOUTx4 module. These would connect to the bottom edge of the MB-6582 CS PCB, except for one DOUT module "port", which is inverted on the MB-6582 base PCB (the outputs go through BC547 transistors to sink the current of one "column" of the LED/switch matrix). However, it's possible to try connecting it without the transistors and inverting the outputs in software... if you're using fairly bright LEDs, it probably won't make a difference... if the LEDs are dim, you could then add the transistors on a small piece of board or even solder them to the DOUTx4 module. If you decide to do this, I can help you with the wiring, it's pretty simple.

My opinion is based on real experience with remarked SIDs and unscrupulous IC brokers. Your opinion is based on wishful thinking. If they could clone SIDs, there would be thousands available, not just a hundred or so, and faked to look like new old stock, they'd be sold as new new stock!

You can control the MIDIbox SID V2 application with a MIDI keyboard controller. I suggest you read the User Manual: http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_sid_manual.html and perhaps read the "V1 Upgrade" section, making sure you've added the 1K pull-up for the CAN bus. There is patch editor software you can use to create/upload patches, if you do not have a control surface: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,11935.0.html

LOL I didn't "give you permission"... I just said people will buy them even if they are remarked, and IMHO I think they are (old markings are sanded away, see pic) which basically means, someone pulled them out of C64s and made them look new. Personally, I hate that people in the world do this kind of thing, but it's been done already, so people might as well enjoy these SIDs... they still sound the same... maybe even BETTER because each one was dipped in DOUBLE HAPPINESS!

I concur... 5.2V DC is fine, and it's separate to the 9V AC coming out of the PSU. This melting bridge rectifier problem does not really make much sense - you would need a lot of current to make one melt like that. I say replace the bridge rectifier and see what happens before blaming the PSU.

Really? Mine didn't. I asked the PacTec people about this a long time ago, their reply: Not much help for me, though... I just found some wood screws about the right size.

I'm pretty sure it's a standard 16mm pot. I don't have a better idea. I use Super Glue (Cyanoacrylate), and wires/two-pin connector.

You can connect up the "-" pins on the board, like you show for the "+" pins. Basically you can put LEDs in parallel, but each LED needs it's own current limiting resistor. You will (probably) never need to worry about parts being closer to the supply not receiving enough power... just assume one wire connecting things is the same as many wires. It is only when you start dealing with audio circuits that wiring topography has some effect. (I think, I'm no expert on that topic either).