Wilba

I don't know exactly what you want to know about current sinking... I'll just ramble then: How a switch or LED matrix works is explained elsewhere... briefly though... instead of connecting the anodes of 8 LEDs to one 74HC595 (serial in, parallel out, shift register) and connecting the cathodes to ground, you can connect all those cathodes together into one "column", and then add more columns (i.e. with the anodes connected into "rows" and each row connected to the output pin). All the common cathode "columns" can then be multiplexed, by another 74HC595 for example, so one pin will be 0V while all the others are 5V. The 0V pin thus will "sink the current" of one column of LEDs, so whatever outputs on the other 74HC595 will show up on that column of LEDs and not the others, because the other cathodes are at 5V so no current will flow. The change I made to the MB-6582 is instead of the 74HC595 sinking columns directly with a 0V (and not with a 5V), I used a transistor so a 5V output on the output pin will drive the transistor to sink the current, and a 0V output to not sink the current. It's a subtle difference which really only means that more current can be sinked (up to 100mA per column). So you can't really test the voltages on JD8 the same way as you would a normal DOUT module output pin.... you can test if it works by using the current meter mode on a multimeter, testing current FLOW between a 5V supply and the transistor's collector... I never really needed to so I can't say if it would work as I expect, it should tell you a difference between zero and something, which will validate if that 74HC595 is working... but more likely is the transistors are really fine (if they're not backwards or you didn't cook em at 400 deg C. for 20 seconds) and you can just test the VOLTAGES on the 74HC595 pin instead. Maybe you could try a DOUT test program, take out the last 74HC595 (above the transistors), ground all the pins on JD8, then ALL the columns will be sinked, and whatever "pin" being tested by the DOUT test program should light up to 16 LEDs on the CS... at least 8 on the 8x8 mod matrix, and up to 8 somewhere else.

Did you try the second test app? http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,10390.msg78577.html#msg78577 Do the encoders work? Do the switches work? by "work" I mean really do what they should, not just do something. You'll need an LCD connected for that. Looking at the base PCB, there are shift registers above where the cables connect. The left three are outputs, the right five are inputs. The FAR left one is the current sink for the LED/switch matrix. In terms of a DOUT chain, the chain is going to the left, so the far left one is last in a chain of three. Now if you take out the far left IC, you can ground the pins on the cable (at JD8) and thus simulate one "column" of the LED/switch matrix being activated. If you run the LED matrix test and get LEDs working (even if they are "wrong"), then that's the problem - the IC or connections to that IC or the transistors are all dead (very unlikely)... etc.. Testing the other outputs... you'd probably need to run a DOUT test program and test voltages on each pin.... but shift registers tend to be pretty solid little things and don't break easily... most likely it's a bad solder joint stopping one of them from working, and if one doesn't work, others further along the chain can't work either, hence no LEDs at all. Take out all those ICs, check continuity of 5V/ground and the shift register connections (see J8_CORE1/J9_CORE1 and refer to Core schematic PDF... RC,SC should be common to all the ICs). I'll do more thinking, get back to me with more info :)

I WANT

I've sent invoices to the last remaining orders. I have 5 OPL3 chipsets left (1xYMF262 + 2xYAC512).

dj3nk

klugscheisser

Excellent case design! I've wanted to use that Retex case for a long time, so it's good to see how someone else used it.

nILS

Are you measuring 3.2V on the AC lines using AC setting on your multimeter? If so, there's not much hope fixing this PSU. Internally, it's just a transformer with two 9V AC secondary coils, one leads directly to the output pins, the other goes through a bridge rectifier/voltage regulator to supply 5V DC. I'm no expert but getting less than 9V AC on the AC output pins suggests a short somewhere on that coil, i.e. less coils, less output voltage. As far as I know, fuses either pass all the voltage or burn out and pass nothing, not drop the voltage.

Those voltages suggest a sagging 5V supply or some kind of other problem perhaps... 9.05V on the CS pin is bad, that suggests CS pin is being shorted with the 9V supply to the SID. Maybe you got the CS pin wrong and you were really measuring the Vdd pin (pin 28)... but in case you were really measuring 9V on the Vdd pin, you should check voltages everywhere. Do not insert the SID chips again until you fix this problem! You do not want to be putting anything over 5V into the data I/O pins! It is possible that you have made some wrong connections setting up the PSU Option A or B... please check these first and check the voltages of pins that should be 5V and 9V (assuming you're using 9V SIDs like 6582/8580)... specifically, the supply to the 74HC595 underneath the SID sockets and the PIC. Take out ALL the ICs in the entire board and check voltages everywhere! The interconnection test should be run without a SID in the socket.

I think it's just package differences. YMF262 datasheet shows the YMF262-S as a 48-pin SQFP package (small quad flat-pack)... The YMF262-M is the more common 28-pin SOP package (the ones found on most sound cards, the ones I sell and the ones used by the OPL3 module). I don't know what the YMF262MEZ would be, most likely a different package... that would be consistent with the suffix of other IC part numbers.

WD-40 is not a lubricant. Just thought I'd mention that... Whatever lubrication occurs is purely accidental ;) FWIW my Dad cuts stainless steel with a very slow drill speed and uses lard as a lubricant.

People ordering after the first batch were packed and posted haven't received invoices because I've been pretty busy or pretty lazy... :-[ I'll get onto that tonight... ;)

I don't think there'll be a problem... although I suggest stripping the wire and putting a 90 deg bend so that the wire lays flat against the PCB, like shown in this picture... that helps avoid stress on the wire as it bends. The picture is before I soldered the joints... soldering both sides also helps avoid stress on the wire where it is in the hole, i.e. the 90 deg bend won't be repeatedly flexed and then break because it's inside the soldered joint.

rock the microphone

pink

I didn't know nILS was a curry muncher... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyssG_brCTk

I have both the 7-pin DIN sockets and the DPDT rocker switch, just like the C64. They're new and cheap.... 2 AUD each. I could probably post for 2.50 AUD.

You should also check you have R2 and R12 (1K resistors) connected to the IIC pins; See schematic: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_core_v3.pdf Perhaps your PCB doesn't have these or the connections are bad.

Process Lasso v3.62.1

I think he meant the first post... Done (using moderator super-powers)

If anyone's ordering some, can they add some extra for me? ;) Send me a PM... I wouldn't mind getting a few samples of other heatsinks from that store.

Good to hear it's all going... can you post some show-off pics? ;)

Make sure there's no shorts between LCD and the control surface PCB. (Hence instructions to solder cable to "bottom" side of LCD, and use something to insulate pads on the "top" side, like sticky tape. Perhaps initially try with LCD not attached to control surface PCB. Do you get any backlight or black bars on the LCD?

on a related topic...