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Screaming_Rabbit

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Posts posted by Screaming_Rabbit

  1. Rabbit, what other technique would you use? Rubberband transmission/secondary encoder wheel(discussed above)/gear transmission?

    1. solution: Ua "Honeywell HOA0901-011" (see link above)

    2. solution (try out): Kevlar string transmission (ca. 20:1) on stepper motor. No rubber band... this would make it feel jerky. Kevlar string like the ones used by P&G for the fader drive transmission.

  2. Another good and simple idea is suggested by ToS when we talked about these jogs is to use HDD disc as a mirror and glue the foil on it. Optocoupler used is the reflective type so light bounces from the HDD disc. If it works good it could be easy to construct.

    ... I don't think this will work.

    1st: Most HD-Discs have some kind of "smokey" colour... absorbs the light

    2nd: If you glue the foil onto the discs, I think you will get too many unwanted reflections.

    Besides: If I look at the size of a HD-Disc (2.5"), why should I use the reflective technique? This technique needs much more precision and the effort is worth only for the matter of space saving.

    Greets, Roger

  3. I tested Encoder design software that Roger mentioned and didn`t liked it... I think it was option of saving just bitmap not vector, so I couldn`t use it to cut the acrylic wheel, so I design one in Corel saved the file and forgot about it till now.

    :) I had the same problem. I was just linking to this one, because I found it yesterday right away by Googling. I have three different ones by the time and as far as I remember, one had vector.... I have to check and post the precise name.

    Another trick is, to play with the size/resolution and then change the ratio in a graphic editor.

    One of those three tools I found, allows to print directly out of the tool.

    So Roger, did you make some electronics to support the optocoupler or you just conect it to DIN?

    ... no, didn't connect it yet. Just ordered once 5 samples to implement into my big baby. According the specs, you can connect it directly to the DINs. As far as I remember, the pull-ups are already within the package.

    Greets, Roger

  4. ... you have to try. There is also a higher quality coreless Alps Model, TK was testing and he was getting bad results.

    http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_mf.html

    (watch out: TK mixed up the pics and names for the "CP" and "W" K-Type faders)

    I just received 3 samples of P&G's newest lower cost fader (commercially not available yet).

    It feels nice and solid (same construction like Alps i.e. rubber belt not nylon string).

    I didn't find time to test it with the MF board yet. I will post the exact type/name later here in this mail.

    Greets, Roger

  5. Aussies:

    Penny+Giles PGF3000 series 104mm Faders

    This guy has a few listed, currently at $10

    Whilst there isn't a switch on the fader there does appear to be mounting holes on the underside for a microswitch

    This is a very neet feature P&G have. In OnAir- and Broadcast-consoles, this Microswitch is used for "fader overpress". - The fader is calibrated in your application, so "0" is where the slider touches the switch. If you pull down the slider even more, you activate the tact-switch and PFL is engaged.

    BTW: If the faders are really new and not too long stored, this is a mega deal!

    Greets, Roger

  6. hmm... what about some mechanical stuff?

    you need a music cassette tape, cut it, and make a loop. then take 2 heads, one head for writing and anotherone for reading (e.g. from an old walkman.)

    I think you can imagne the rest.

    I know it's quite LoFi, that's why I've first posted it when I knew that even the experts (theProf,AC) don't have a solution  ;)

    .... and after a few hours you have an AUTO-Set Low-Pass filter included. ;D

  7. Helllooooo!

    lol, why even mention that, it's ALWAYS raining over here  :P

    no NLX,

    its always raining where YOU are.. rainclouds like you.. they think you are a raingod :D:D

    Come to Australia,we need rain!

    You guys are interfering the subject and Echopraxia's recent question just to give a non relevant answer to a 1 year old post?  ::)

    ... if you at least would answer his question...

    Hello. Would I need to remove the ICs and PICs from the PCBs before cleaning the PCB?s

    ... depends what you are doing. I normaly remove flux before I assemble the boards with removable items.

    If you remove them you're on the safer side for shure, but if you don't spoil your components side with any solvent, you don't have to worry anything.

    Greets, Roger

  8. ... wenn der Schalter wirklich an Pin34 angeschlossen ist, einfach den bestehenden "USER_ENC_NotifyChange"-Code-Teil durch...

    USER_ENC_NotifyChange

    movlw 34 ; check status of pin #34

    call MIOS_DIN_PinGet

    bnz USER_ENC_NotifyChange_1

    USER_ENC_NotifyChange_0

    ;; send Note C-3 on left-turn, and C#3 on right-turn

    movlw 0x90 ; Note, Channel #1

    call MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut

    movlw 0x3c ; C-3

    IFSET MIOS_PARAMETER2, 7, movlw 0x3d ; C#3

    call MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut

    movlw 0x7f

    goto MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut

    USER_ENC_NotifyChange_1

    ;; send Note D-3 on left-turn, and D#3 on right-turn

    movlw 0x90 ; Note, Channel #1

    call MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut

    movlw 0x3e ; D-3

    IFSET MIOS_PARAMETER2, 7, movlw 0x3f ; D#3

    call MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut

    movlw 0x7f

    goto MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut

    ...ersetzen

    Greets, Roger

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