rambinator

great design! some questions: 1) can you explain how you built the case? i mean the wooden box. i am not shure what would be the best way to make a stable box. >I cut the lazertran to make the whole between the 2 coats of varnish... >The paper was hard enough to be cut propely and the second coat make every thing looks cleaner. 2) what tool did you use to cut the holes? 3) in the light areas of the panel... is the lazertran transparent (that you can see the metal) or is it more whiteish opaque? 4) do you have a closer pic where i can see the joint between the lazertranpapers?

ok. i now have everything ready for order. i still have another question before i spend my money on lazertran. the new lazertran seems to be non-transparent, producing a white background. they say you can make it trasparent with a varnish, but does anyone haven an experience of how transparent it will be? as i sais i have a shiny steel surface that should appear as "natural" as possible, where not covered. btw. at the office we have one of those printers/copiers that is listed to be compatible with the old lazertran.

can you give me the itemnumber from reichelt? i have those buchsenleisten, that you can break to the desired length. those are exactly the ones i am experiencing the problems with as they are intended for printmounting. i cant see any for crimping at reichelt. maybe i am blind edit: maybe i am really blind... do you talk about: PSK 254/8W Kupplungs-Leergehäuse, Crimptechnik, 8-polig? if i only found these earlier...

does anyone know if you can get them in germany? have been looking for something like that. maybe i didnt look carefully enough

ok i did some tests now. i flipturned the connectors on din4 switched the groundings and connected them to another shiftregister. it's always the same two digits who appear dim. so it must be a different charge or something. that sucks. it would be hard to desolder them

oh... then we were talkin about different things. i know those "selfcutting" dil headers. but i never found them as sil version. i have always been searching for something like that as it would make life much easier. where did you get them?

Hi! Yesterday i tried to add LED-Digits to my MidiboxLC. Now two of thos digits have a much lower brightness than the others. They all came from one order batch. I also used all the same resistors on the dout module. I checked the solderjoints. What else could cause such a behaviour?

how do you solder silheaders properly? i hardwired the modules together but i am also using these headers for everything connected to din and dout. anyway those things keep giving me a hard time. when you move the cables while u test somethin or if you plug and unblug the flatcables bend and there are always some fibres of the cable breaking and bending away from the solderjoints producing almost invisible shortcircuits or disconnections. i tried putting a lot of flux on the joints to prevent any fibres from breaking loose but i still have big problems.

what sort of lazertran is preferable for frontpanels? laser or inkjet? It seems like these are completely different mechanisms. If i understand it correctly laser has to be printed mirrored, while the other has not. It is also stated on the site that the background of the inkjet version becomes white which implies that this material is thicker than the laser version.

jeeez... that looks like shite. i hope i will get better results. what do you mean with "old lazertran". as far as i got it the baking process is optional to give a more durable result. i was also planning on doing it this way. on their pix it looks like it is impossible to get a dark surface without bubbles and scratches, but when you look at the whole stuff they built all the devices have black fronts with just the lines scales and letter in alu-color. can anyone recomend covering big areas with black color with lazertran. i have my panel made from satin stainless VA-Steel and i might do it like that. but if the results are that bad it might be better to apply black lines on the brushed (or white sprayed) panel

what exactly went wrong with the clearcoat?

btw... do you think the toner transfer system from http://www.pulsar.gs/ that is discussed in the 15min pcb thread would be an equil substitute or alternative for lazertran when you want to do panel-art?

i dont have the lazertran yet. still have to order it from the uk. i think i'll have the time to work on the box in october. just wanted to get informet about some aspects thet popped to my head

cool. please report your experiences. i got my panel lasercut and it has all the holes and slots in it. i did a panel design in coreldraw that i want to apply with lazertran. maybe you could use a very sharp modelling-knife. i have no idea what consistency the dry decal has. maybe theres danger that the surounding area gets cracks or something when you cut out a hole after it has been applied

i still didn't get a reply yet if you have to cut out the holes and slots in the lazertran before you apply it. or if you do it after it is set onto the panel. which tool do you use?

of course i did :) but with the tatoos it works like putting it upside down on the target area, rubbing it on and then removing the carrier. same applies to those decals used for aircraftmodels. this lazertran guide sounds like you have to remove the decal from the carrier first and then bring it to the target. i guess that can produce crinkles when you try to handle something as big as a4. i would find it easier to place the decal with the carrier upside down on the panel and then somehow remove the carrier

this is not a proudct link. do you mean this? http://www.pearl.de/product.jsp?pdid=PE8065&catid=2421&vid=916&curr=DEM did you try it with metal? do you have pics of results?

hi! i am also planing to use lazertran for a big frontpanel of a mbox LC. i am still not sure how this thing will work when you have to spread the design over several sheets. what i read on the diy synth page is: that sounds quite difficult for me if you first slide it off and then place it on the panel. i cant imagine sliding a whole a4 sheet off the carrier and all the all the way onto the panel especially with wholes and cuts in the panel. do you have to cut out the faderslots and holes from the decal before you apply it? or later with a scalpel? how difficult is it to align several sheets without seeing too much of the line? do you print alignment marks on your sheet?

Hi! I dont wanna disencourage you, but from my point of view the MboxLC projects is not the way to go if youre just interested in a very cheap alternative to the original. I promise you, you wont get it for 100$. I also started with the price in mind. but as the project goes on you want this and that, cooler switches better faders etc. and dont forget that you need a decent frontpanel to make it not look crappy. You should consider that, but if you decide to do it, its lots of fun.

i just ordered an isd2560 and i guess it would do with the delete eom deactivated and consecutive adressing. like that there will be the next message everytime you push the button. that will be ok. i dont need random. does anyone knows what happens when you reach the end of all messages in this mode? i found this sample circuit for the 1400 http://www.winbond-usa.com/products/isd_products/chipcorder/applicationbriefs/apbr11.pdf and i guess it would work with the 2560 too

hi guys! I have to build a toy that can play sounds for a birthday present. I allready worked with one of those ready-to-use sound ics where you records something through the speaker and play it back. what i now want is something that can record and playback like 3 or so different sounds (maybe in sequence whenever you push the button or in random order, doesnt matter). Does anyone know an ic that can do it? or a circuit i could build for that purpose? long time ago ive seen something with a uC and eeprom but i cant remember where. it should be quite small also. thanks.... rambinator

most of these things have DIL headers

:o you must be kidding ;D

what are ty rips?

This question goes out to all of you who used the encoders from voti.nl in you midibox. How did you attach those to your frontpanel? Did you put the threaded shaft through the panel and use the nut that came with the encoder? then the rotating shaft would be too long for my caps and i would have to saw it off. Or did you put the enoders on a vectorboard? the pins of the encoders are too thick for standard boards... so i am quite unsure which approach i should choose