rambinator

Hi! Das hört sich sehr interessant an, besonders das mit dem Bedrucken. Ich wäre da sehr interessiert. Wie lange bist du in Mexiko? Ich bin noch nich 100% fertig mit meinem Layout aber ich könnte das dann als Ansporn nutzen. Wäre cool wenn du noch Infos geben könntest, wie die Bedruckung erstellt werden soll. Ich brauche eine Platte für die MBLC, is also etwas größer als die SID. Ist der Preis bei der Bedruckung abhängig von der Fläche? ich hätte da nämlich eine recht "farbenprächtige" Idee. gruß, rambinator

As I allready described in another thread I now use an external pc-psu to drive my MBLC. We all know that those PSU deliver 5V which is to low to put it through the voltage regulator. That's why I connected it direclty to J2. Everything was fine and I felt safe just until I realized yesterday that the output voltage is 5,4V. Is this dangerous for the pic? I didn't find information in the PIC's datasheet. Who has experience with PC-PSUs and the core module? Are there other dangers when using J2? any precautions? regards rambinator

Hi! My frontplate will be made from "Hartschaumplatte" (extendet PVC) and I am also experimenting with different techniques to get the artwork onto it (I am planning to have some sort of camouflage/millitary-equipment design on my MBLC). I don't want the panel to look like something have been glued to it, espiacially not a glossy sticker foil. Last weekend I tried a special transfer-paper which is intended for ceramics, glass and similar. Two sheets cost 9€ here in germany and this thing is absolute crap. It doesn't stick to pvc and it tears appart when soaked with water. I am now planning to use lasertran transfer-paper and I have allready ordered a package from their UK-shop. Maybe that would be an alternative for you too. cheers rambinator

False alarm... I am very sorry to steal your time, but I am not as skilled with coding as I thought! I just found out that the MBSEQ_HARDWARE_OPTION was set and as the MBSEQ doesn't have faders it's no wonder that it didn't work. Now the Faders are "working" again but not as smooth as with the old software, althought I didn't configure deadband etc in the old soft. Now the faders are sending data correctly but when I move the faders in the host's mixer the motors are not always responding, you have to put them to middle position and move the faders on the host very fast to get a motor response. Maybe I have to do some calibration (at least the calibration tool is working now with mios 1.8, didn't have any success with it before) p.s: I just read that you had the problem with your faders that they are not all responding equally at the same voltage. I seem to have the same here. with the calibration tool I move fader one and 5 or 6 of the others are following when I change the voltage the remaining ones maybe moving but some of the others don't. I must admit that I am using a 10k Pot for the MV (I fried the other one) so that it's quite difficult to fine-adjust, maybe I have to change it. But how did you work around that so that you can use your box properly. You said on the MF-page that this is still a remaining problem

After having succesfully updated to mios 1.8 (see my other thread) I am now trying the C-version of midibox LC. Result: the motorfaders are not working (not moving, not sending data). It's not a MIOS problem because LC 1.6 is still working fine with the faders. Is there anything else I have to take into account (any settings in the software etc.)?

Thanks! Problem solved.

Hi! Yesterday I wanted to try the new MidiBox LC C-Version. That's why I need to update from MIOS 1.7 to 1.8. I uploaded the mios_v1_8.syx with SysexBox it says "mios rebooting" but afterwards the display still says "MIOS 1.7.." and then the display is empty. I then can still upload applications to the box. What's going wrong here? Do I also need a new bootstraploader? regards, rambinator

Hi guys! I finally bought this thing and it's working really good. It delivers enough current on the 12V for the motorfaders. It's also easy to handle. You have this small box with the on/off switch, a plug and thwo leds which you can rip and build into your box. You don't have to hassle arround with trafos and it's safe to use. One of the negative aspects is that it only has 5V on the other rail so you have to connect it directly to the core because it would drop below 5 through the voltage regulator. But anyway the 5V are stable and I trust this PSU so it shouldn't be a problem. I also didn't protect the box with fuses, should I? Conclusion: - If you have your own PSU design use it! - If you get another wallplug for free or if you can test before you buy and it's cheap, go for it! - If you don't want to try all these pollin.de PSUs with trial and error and if you are confused with all the other MBLC/PSU threads like me, you can buy this one, although it's quite expensive - It's widely available worldwide it think, not like all those surplus things. I hope that helps somebody. cheers rambinator

So you have an application that can display which din is toggled? or did I get you wrong? If yes, could you give it to me as I am hunting for bad solderjoints in my mblc, it seems like not all din pins are properly working yet so such a test-app would be usefull. greetings rambinator

YEP! ... you could test it with one of the virtual midiboxes and a virtual patchcable.

allright... so I will stop demanding now. I will try to figure out if what I want to do will work. How can I find out how long it would take to go to second layer when I push the layer button. Can I calculate this somehow? If not I will experiment a little when I have finnished the rest. Thanks for all your help and support.

Well I knew that and thought about this allready. But I am just starting with ableton and the midiboxlc. I have the skeleton of the box on a table and the DAW is quite far away, I'm just in the testing stage and could not decide which button to swap for the scrub button because I don't know my workflow yet. So I thought it would be a good idea to think about a concept which allows you to have more buttons. BUT after writing the last posting this morning I rethought my idea and came to the conclusion that it might not work anyway because I might have mistaken the layer-concept of the software. I thought that "you are in the second" layer as long as you hold the special-button. Is this incorrect? Does the specialbutton just switch through the layers like a book? in this case my concept would be nonsense and it would explain why nobody understands it :) p.s: but in the standard-configuration of your software it's ;; 15th shift register ;; button LED db ID_IGNORE, ID_IGNORE ; (in my setup encoders are connected here) db ID_IGNORE, ID_IGNORE ; (in my setup encoders are connected here) db ID_IGNORE, ID_IGNORE ; (spare pin in my setup) db ID_IGNORE, ID_IGNORE ; (spare pin in my setup) db ID_IGNORE, ID_IGNORE ; (spare pin in my setup) db ID_IGNORE, ID_IGNORE ; (spare pin in my setup) db ID_IGNORE, ID_IGNORE ; (spare pin in my setup) db ID_IGNORE, ID_IGNORE ; (spare pin in my setup) and in the midibox_lc_buttons.pdf document there are spare pins too. Did you chance your design since then? greetings rambinator

MIOS Ableton Live ;; 1st shift register ID_SELECT_CHN1, same ID_SELECT_CHN2, same ID_SELECT_CHN3, same ID_SELECT_CHN4, same ID_SELECT_CHN5, same ID_SELECT_CHN6, same ID_SELECT_CHN7, same ID_SELECT_CHN8, same ;; 2nd shift register ID_REC_RDY_CHN1, same ID_REC_RDY_CHN2, same ID_REC_RDY_CHN3, same ID_REC_RDY_CHN4, same ID_REC_RDY_CHN5, same ID_REC_RDY_CHN6, same ID_REC_RDY_CHN7, same ID_REC_RDY_CHN8, same ;; 3rd shift register ID_SOLO_CHN1, same ID_SOLO_CHN2, same ID_SOLO_CHN3, same ID_SOLO_CHN4, same ID_SOLO_CHN5, same ID_SOLO_CHN6, same ID_SOLO_CHN7, same ID_SOLO_CHN8, same ;; 4th shift register ID_MUTE_CHN1, same ID_MUTE_CHN2, same ID_MUTE_CHN3, same ID_MUTE_CHN4, same ID_MUTE_CHN5, same ID_MUTE_CHN6, same ID_MUTE_CHN7, same ID_MUTE_CHN8, same ;; 5th shift register ID_ASSIGN_TRACK, I/O ID_ASSIGN_SEND, Sends ID_ASSIGN_PAN_SURROUND, Pan ID_ASSIGN_PLUG_IN, Plugins ID_ASSIGN_EQ, Page left ID_ASSIGN_INSTRUMENT, Page right ID_BANK_LEFT, Bank left ID_BANK_RIGHT, Bank right ;; 6th shift register ID_BANK_CHANNEL_LEFT, Channel left ID_BANK_CHANNEL_RIGHT, Channel right ID_FLIP, Flip ID_GLOBAL_VIEW, Return ID_SHIFT, Shift ID_OPTION, Option ID_CONTROL, Ctrl ID_CMD_ALT, Alt ;; 7th shift register ID_MARKER, Locator ID_NUDGE, Locator next ID_CYCLE, loop ID_DROP, punch in ID_REPLACE, punch out ID_CLICK, home ID_REWIND, same ID_FAST_FWD, same ;; 8th shift register ID_STOP, same ID_PLAY, same ID_RECORD, same ID_CURSOR_UP, same ID_CURSOR_LEFT, same ID_ZOOM, zoom/fire ID_CURSOR_RIGHT, same ID_CURSOR_DOWN, same ;; 9th shift register ID_VPOT_SELECT_CHN1, same ID_VPOT_SELECT_CHN2, same ID_VPOT_SELECT_CHN3, same ID_VPOT_SELECT_CHN4, same ID_VPOT_SELECT_CHN5, same ID_VPOT_SELECT_CHN6, same ID_VPOT_SELECT_CHN7, same ID_VPOT_SELECT_CHN8, same ;; 10th shift register ID_GLOBAL_TRACKS, F9 ID_GLOBAL_INPUTS, F10 ID_GLOBAL_AUDIO_TRCK, F11 ID_GLOBAL_AUDIO_INSTR, F12 ID_GLOBAL_AUX, F13 ID_GLOBAL_BUSSES, F14 ID_GLOBAL_OUTPUTS, F15 ID_GLOBAL_USER, F16 ;; 11th shift register ID_AUTOM_READ_OFF, SA ID_AUTOM_WRITE, Clip/Chain ID_AUTOM_TRIM, trim ID_AUTOM_TOUCH, browser ID_AUTOM_LATCH, detail ID_UTIL_CANCEL, marker ID_UTIL_ENTER, follow ID_MBLC_HOLD_LAYER, ;; 12th shift register ID_F1, same ID_F2, same ID_F3, same ID_F4, same ID_F5, same ID_F6, same ID_F7, same ID_F8, same ;; 13th shift register encoder encoder encoder encoder encoder encoder encoder encoder ;; 14th shift register encoder encoder encoder encoder encoder encoder encoder ;; 15th shift register encoder encoder ID_UTIL_SAVE BTA ID_UTIL_UNDO Draw ID_SOLO End ID_GROUP Redo ID_SMPTE_BEATS same ID_NAME_VALUE same ;; 16th shift register ID_FADER_TOUCH_CHN1, ID_FADER_TOUCH_CHN2, ID_FADER_TOUCH_CHN3, ID_FADER_TOUCH_CHN4, ID_FADER_TOUCH_CHN5, ID_FADER_TOUCH_CHN6, ID_FADER_TOUCH_CHN7, ID_FADER_TOUCH_CHN8, The functions above I will assign to the dins which are available. Now every pin is beeing used. It's not possible to connect more buttons. the function: ID_SCRUB, Fire Scene is very important when using Live, it should be available with a one button click like the scrub function on the original mackie control. with the button-setup above it would only be accessible in the second layer. means I have to press two buttons: ID_MBLC_HOLD_LAYER + ID_SCRUB That wouldn't be handy in my oppinion. So my idea is to have an extra button, located next to the datawheel, which triggers both dins at the same time.

Not bad this idea. But as far as I understand, this is just an endless rotary encoder, based on optical elements, just like in a mechanical computer-mouse. It wouldn't provide the tactile properties of a modwheel, which goes back automatically to the zero-position etc...

My Idea is to have MORE BUTTONS ;D I have currently started to explore Ableton Live 5 which now supports mackie. In Live the Scrub button is very usefull. It is firing clips. I want this button to my direct tactile disposal. also "save" "undo" and "solo". But I dont want to sacrifice other buttons or press two buttons at once (maybe I would get used to it and I'm just exagerating now). So the main idea behind this is to have a workaround for the limitation of midibox which misses six physical representations of functions plus the scrub button, due to the limited dins. I hope I didn't get everything wrong now, I'm quite excited and maybe a little overacting now that the faders are moving and the project is moving on

problem with the heat is solved. the motordrives were consuming way too much current because they were sort of blocked due to fals connection. now it works pretty well without getting hot. how do I declare a thread "solved" in this subforum?

Do you use character leds for the timecode or do you also display it in the lcd? I want to remove this so that the whole display is just for channel related infos and the channel-strips are as wide as possible. Is this what you did? Could you send me your file so that I can have a look? cheers rambinator

Hi! Just an idea... would it be possible with the midibox-LC to have extra buttons in the design which access functions of the second layer directly? I mean a button that triggers the "LC Layer-button" and the corresponding input pin for the function at the same time. There are buttons with two independent triggers but I guess that the Layer-button has to be triggered first, right? What would be the minimum delay before the function butten could be triggered. Would it be possible to realize such a delay with a simple capacitor or with an easy small circuit? Any ideas? greetings, rambinator

Hi eufex! I have the same question and problem! I also realized that in the designs in the galery. You want to use the whole display just for the channel strips right? Did you find out howto? How did you remove the status and the beats display? I allready posted this on the programming forum and TK recomended the new C-Version of LC for these things... but it would be great if you allready found out :) cheers rambinator

Ok, i understand. So no "original" layout... But what do I have to change to remove the status and smpte display? SET_GLCD_SMPTE_BEATS LC_SMALL_FONT, 0, 0?... and make the space between the other characters bigger? Is ther allready a threat or any info on display layout, what does what etc?

Hi! Can somebody please explain what I have to edit in lc_glcd.inc to have the "original" logic-control layout with just the channel information and no smpt beats and additional information, I use the additional Led-Display. I don't understand the different pages and how I calculate the spaces. I have two 2x40 displays and want to set them up like in Doc's or D2k's boxes on the pictures. Means I want to arrange the channel information with equal distance so that I have the maximum channel width. I need to know the resulting layout to design the frontpanel. Thnx, rambinator

Well, I now put a 10K pot in and it's now possible to get 8V. One should really read the schematics before soldering something to "get it work now". The faders are really moving now!!! although not smoothly yet, will have to work on that. With a 10k pot it's quite difficult to fine-adjust the voltage. This mornig I thought about this "extra-hole" thing again and I came up with the idea that there might be pots with an anclosure which has some sort of pin in the middle for fixation... ??? the regulator still gets very hot! do I need active cooling?

Damn what a nightmare! I just didn' realize that the lm317 pins in reality are from left to right "adjust, output, input" and not "input, adjust, output"... But back to the voltage problem... from the datasheet of the voltage-regulator I see that the higher the pots resistance the higher the output voltage. If I turn the 1K pot up completly theres just 6,45V just as I sais. Maybe 1K is not enough. The example circuit in the datasheet has a 5K pot.

Hi! It's quite late here (in the middle of the night :)) and I have been working on my motorfader-module. When I measure the Voltage at C4 it's 6,45V only which is way to low. The faders just move a little. Now a small story which might have nothing to do with that, so you don't have to read it: I couldn't find out what could be the cause, so I thought I might have connected the 1k pot in a wrong way. I'm not an electronic engineer and I had some beer so there might be some stupid thoughts behind that... I have the pcb from mike and it has 4 pads and 4 drilled holes where there should be 3 for the pot. (there are just 3 green pads in the brd-file). Well I then tried the "other" possible way the pot could be connected, resulting in a mf-voltage of 10V and a small fire between the pot and C3 which melted the cap's isolation... I think I can fix that tommorow... still have a pot and a cap somewhere.. hope that nothing else has been fried. Just to be sure that this was a stupid idea... ... the 4th hole is where I drawed the red dot. that's where I moved the bottom pin of the pot when the inferno broke loose... Well I really don't know why mike drilled this hole (anyway the all of the holes where too small for the pot he sent me with it). But now back to the MF-Voltage and the question why it is that low. I tried with different psu's from 12-15V with the same result. Any ideas? Is it normal that the LM317 get REALLY hot? I put a small heatsink on it when I realized that but I still don't trust it. Could that have to do with my voltage problem. I hope someone with a little more knowledge can help. cheers, rambinator

Just had a look at it and I don't think it would be of any help to translate this. As I allready said, I don't think they will reveal the protocol to the public or behringer scavengers would be at the place immediately.