carsten_the_dane

The end of my topic (burner question) is about the same problem, only that it goes for all options in P18. Havent found an answer yet - it was just to let you know (not that you can use it :-\) Carsten

Bought a new pair of batteries and readjusted the trimpot. Not plugged in to computer: J2: 12,5 MCLR#: 2.04 T1 b: 1.94 T1 C: 2.04 Plugged in: J2: 12,5 VPP ON: mclr#: 1.75 t1 c: 1.75 t1 b: 1.66 VPP OFF: mclr#: 2.04 t1c: 2.04 t1 b: 1.94 VDD ON/OFF: both 5 volts. Also, i have noticed that the red LED will turn on,a second or so after i turn it off, particularly for maybe the first minut it is plugged in. Could it be "plug n play" looking for something in the LPT1 port? [EDIT]: I answered this myself, and found a little app called "unplug n pray" which disables universal plug and play. And although the LED problem disappeared, i cant say if plugnplay was causing the problem. Anyway, it made no difference to the voltage... unfortunately. If i use linux (which i dont right now), would i be able to just feed the "channels" with a negative value? From what i´ve been reading, i can understand that bc337 works like an on/off dingsbums - do you think that it is broken. Based on what i descriped in the beginning of this thread, that i had turned around on the bc337 and lm317 which caused the lm337 to burn.

Ok. i will measure T1 tomorrow afternoon. My batteries are dead now, so i have to buy a new pair. Dont forget my new problem is that turn of VDD and VPP makes no difference to the voltage. see you tomorrow /carsten

Should MCLR# really be 12,5 - As far as i can see resistor R2 drops the voltage to almost nothing just before mclr#. I have attached a schematics where i have marked the places i supposed to measure. Im pretty sure about this, but its just to be completely sure that its right. I have to affirm everything in order to troubleshoot.

I can turn the LEDs of, but it has no effect on my measurings. VDD stays on 5v and VPP goes from 1.5 to 1.88

I dont know what is wrong with the topic "burner question continued", personally i cannot view it. So here goes again. I have some problems with the formulation in the documentation. Could anyone please explain these sentences to me: "switch on Vpp - the red LED should go on. Measure the voltage at the MCLR# pin, it should be the same like adjusted before" - Should MCLR# read 12,5 - because mine only reads about 1,4. "Click on the "Data In" button - Data In should get the same value like selected with one of the above sData buttons." Anyway. All readings are good, except maybe that VPP reading at mclr# which seems kinda low. P18 says: division durch null, and does not reconize the pic. I dont have printers or scanners installed, and my cable is new. [EDIT]: Sorry i just saw that you put my question into the other thread. I dont mean to flood the forum with my problems. it just seemed appropriate to make a new thread, since my problems had changed a lot since my original thread.

About the red LED. Should it be 12,5 - or the same as before plugging the burner into the computer? The documentation is a bit vague.

NOOO (or maybe yes) - one week of troubleshooting all because i didnt know what a trimpot was :-X Well, that will teach me to read about all components and read through all documents before starting the "real" midibox project. Its working now, and i feel sorry that i have wasted your time like that. Carsten

Sorry my mistake again ;D Though the connections are made right i have been measuring at the wrong places. I had changed O and A around in my head. So the measures should be like this: J1: ~ 18 volts 317: I = ~ 18 volts 317: O = 2.1 volts J2: 1.41 volts Dont know if it changes anything

Could you please take a look at the datasheet found on this page http://www.datasheet4u.net/html/T/L/3/TL317_TexasInstruments.pdf.html As far as i can see, the I,O,A placement on the TL317 is different from the schematics found on ucapps.de. - Or what ???

I think when i had bad results i had tried changing the polarity, just to check if that might be the fault. Could this cause other compoonents to malfunction? - But generally i have been using the pin closest to the lpt as negative and the other as positive. I will put the recitifier back in place, so theres no doubt. Anyway, i was thinking of just bying all components again (except the sockets), and start over. Could it be a shortcircuit on the other side of the board. - I have checked but havent found any that i could see. Just to make sure: theres no polarity on resistors and ceramic capacitors, right? Well. Thanks again for taking some time to help me Carsten

Here is a picture of my board, with some additional comments. You can see how i have placed to LEDs, and if there are any problems with my setup otherwise. The little blister on the voltage regulator is because this image is from before i moved the lm317, as explained earlier in this thread. I hope you dont get to confused by my drawings :-\

My bad about the 0 volts at j1. New 317, New measures: J1: ~ 18 volts 317: I = ~ 18 volts 317: O = 0.14 volts J2: 1.41 volts This time i couldnt possibly have done anything to break the 317. No green lights either. So whats your advice? (EDIT): Been spending some time going over the schematics. And i havent been able to find any errors in my setup. Did i say that i have removed the b80c800 rectifier, and just uses a bridge. but than shouldnt mean anything, right?

I appreciate it, but there is no need for that. I dont live so far from an eletronik store. Even if it is fried, shouldnt i be able to get a reading before the LM317?

thats to bad. cuz now im getting no read at all. I connect the (-) from the battery to the pin closest to the LPT connector.

:-X whoops. Ok, the setup works, i get green light and a measure on j1 and j2 at 14.5 But it puzzles me that i should connect the batteries at J1 and J2, at the pictures of you making the burner, the power clearly comes from J1 only?

Hi First of all, thanks for moving the post, i didnt want to cross-post. And also thanks you for taking the time helping me. Here are the measures: J1 = 8.92 LM317:I = 8.91 LM317:O = 0.13 J2 = 1.38

Using the multimeter i was measuring volts, particularly looking at the TL317 (LM317 in the schematics, read above). when i make connection between what i would call finger 1 and 2 on the TL317, the green light lights up quite clear. What could this mean? (finger 1 and 2 being first to the right and second to the right, looking on the flat side of the TL317)

Electronics is completely new to me. So if you could please help me on this. Today i changed the 100uF 16V rectifier with a new one. Its a bit different; it says 100uF and 100V, i hope this is not a problem. I also changed the first voltage regulator LM317 - this one is changed to one called TL317. The man in the shop said it was the same. Is this a problem? I think i have manage to find the problem is with the LM317 (now TL317), where the voltage drops from about 9 (not quite 12.5) to 1,5. Any suggestions would much appreciated? Thanks Carsten

Lol. im getting a reading that says between 0.02 and 0.05 volts.

:-X i think i fried the LM317 voltage regulator. I had accidently switch around the capacitor and the "voltage testing pins". Whoops It almost caught fire :-\ How on earth can i troubleshoot my board now. Maybe it was just the regulator that died on me, but perhaps all the parts got fried ??? Nice to know what you´re doing carsten

well i skipped that step and bought 2 nine volt batteries. But there is no light in the leds. Could i possibly post pictures of my board here, so that someone could check it out for errors. Because i dont know what to do now. Carsten

Changed the subject of this topic a bit, since my original problem didnt have much to do with my problems now. Please read on...

No no, thats fine :)

thanks for all the feedback. Appreciate it :) /carsten