matrigs

after a few months i came back to making my boxes - and i realised that there have been some changes to the midibox code. i realised that now after installing midibox64 v2.4b and reconfiguring it with serge's vmidibox64 my box behaves quite odd. is it possible that serge's box doesn't work anymore for the new code's? maybe someon has a backup of the old codes so i could install them back? thanks!

interesting i thought that only i had such an idea! i actually did a very similar thing that look like this: ________________________ | | | 2x LCD | |______________________ | enc enc enc enc enc enc enc enc the encoders have push buttons. to answer your first question: you can do that with bome's midi translator. you just have to add 8 entries so that whenever you press a channel select button it also sends the "plugin edit" message so it will switch to the edit mode. this is not a very nice workaround but hey it works. i have this implemented in the above idea and it works quite well. i cannot though answer your second and third question.

try some djshops. my fader caps are in fact reloop spare caps. quite pricey but nice. attention though: see exactly if the fadercap will fit your fader. i had to widen the opening a bit in mine cause they were like 0.2 mm to narrow.

i know that they are alps but does anybody know the serial number ? they have a perfect feeling and i would really want to implement them in my future midiboxes !

no no it does what it is supposed to do. i'm still having alot of trouble with my sid - arp is still down and filter doesn't work like it should too. interconnection test is fine testtone works 2 different cores used both 6581 and 8580 the same problem... wicked

my c programming skills are totally bad but i guess i'll figure out how to do this switching but i could really need a hand with the ledrings. is there any application in c with ledrings up so i could look how it is made ?

any idea how to achieve that ? some hints maybe ... i mean should i try to rewrite the mb64e code or start something from scratch ? actually i would prefer start from scratch in c but i couldn't find an example for driving ledrings in c on the forum.

like in the topic name - when switching the cs# to 0 should the d7 pin also go to 0 or stay at 5 volts ? the readme doesn't mention that.

so - my idea is: i have an encoder and underneath 3 illuminated buttons. what i would want to do is that when i press one button it lits up, the encoder sends for example cc1 and also the ledring around it receives cc1. when i press another button it lits up, the first button goes of and now the encoder sends cc2 and the ledring receives cc2. is that possible actually ?

just make sure that you try this configuration out earlier stuffing some pots in a piece of carton or else. the thing is that you might end up having the pots too nearby each other and they will be difficult to operate.

that was a really weird one. the midi implementation in the manual that the ucapps wiki points at must be obsolete. the manual said that switching parameter pages is done by clicking the cursor left "44" and cursor right "45" buttons. in fact after a lot of research it came out that page left is actually "2c" and "2d". the old manual says those are related to "assignment eq" and "assignment instrument" i hope someone else finds this topic useful.

it's driving me nuts! in ableton - i have a midi channel selected with a vst synthesizer in it. now i press the assignment:plugin button and i can see on the lc screen all the plugins in that channel . i press the first v-pot to select the first instrument and the lcd shows me the first 8 parameters of the plugin to edit. according to the lc-manual, clicking on the cursor left and cursor right buttons should show me the next page of parameters. but instead, cursor left and cursor right clicks end up in switching audio channels to the left and to the right. i tried to play with the view modes but that wasn't really helpful. can someone help me out?

okay i actually solved it by myself... the line LC_CLCD_Msg_CursorUpdate_C2 movlw 0x80-40 addwf TMP1, F has to be changed to LC_CLCD_Msg_CursorUpdate_C2 movlw 0x80-28 addwf TMP1, F also - to have everything correctly alined LC_CLCD_Init_Page0 ;; print status digits at position 38/2 SET_CLCD_STATUS 1, 38, 2 ;; print "SMPTE/BEATS" at position: 28/2 SET_CLCD_SMPTE_BEATS 1, 1, 2 ;; print MTC digits at position 27/3 SET_CLCD_MTC 1, 0, 3 ;; print host messages at position 12/0, (0=normal spacing) SET_CLCD_HOST_MSG 1, 13, 0, 0 ;; don't print meters SET_CLCD_METER 0, 0, 0, 0 ;; print rec/solo/mute status at 0/0 SET_CLCD_RSM_MSG 1, 0, 0 ;; print select status at 0/1 SET_CLCD_SEL_MSG 1, 0, 1 return and everything fits perfectly on screen. yikes !

i guesss this won't work without some more intensive recoding. as far as i have understood the glcd.inc file there are no seperate functions for the host messages only one: ;; print host messages at position 12/0, (0=normal spacing) SET_CLCD_HOST_MSG 1, 12, 0, 0 i guess that when it hits the end of the first lcd i automatically goes to the second. i guess i would have to make a seperate SET_CLCD_HOST_MSG for the first lcd and a seperate for the second. correct ?

howdy ! so i have this problem - instead of havinf both lcd's in a line i have mounted them one beneath the other to get a more compact midibox. the problem is only that now the "controlable" elements on the lcd are not alligned together. it looks like this: status section | channel 1 | channel 2 | channel 3 | channel 4 | O O O O channel 5 | channel 6 | channel 7 | channel 8 | clock section O O O O the round "O" are knobs in my panel. of course you can immagine that this solution isn't really very comfortable. what i try to achieve is the following: status section | channel 1 | channel 2 | channel 3 | channel 4 | O O O O clock section | channel 5 | channel 6 | channel 7 | channel 8 | O O O O so i just want to move the "clock" part to the left of the lcd. i tried to rewrite the code a bit but i'm quite stuck - the lc code is quite big with a lot of attachments and i get confused very easy. could you maybe point me in the direction where i should go and search? i have 2x40 character lcd's thanks in advance

i'm having a bit of a problem here - midi feedback from my daw to my midibox64e works perfectly. when i move a fader/knob in ableton i get a change notification on my lcd and everything - perfect. BUT - not with the buttons. i can't drive them nor the leds related to them via midi. for example i press the button on my mb64e and it lights up the according button in ableton, but when i put it off with a mouse in ableton then it doesn't send the notification back to my mb64e. the same with midiox, miosstudio etc. when i send a cc or note or whatever is linked to a specific button the mb64e says nothing. is driving buttons impemented at all in mbox64e ?

i'm very sorry i actually found the solution myself: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,3291.0.html apparently i have to put numbers above 64 instead of 0.

actually - where to disable the function buttons ? like snapshot etc. i put a 0 at every of those functions but they still work...

you don't need a din for the lcd - there is a dedicated socket for the lcd.

there are differently shaped and coloured screws on the pots because there are actually three different pots in this whole setup ! the lower two rows are pots that are with me together since my very first mbox. i love them because due to massive use and a few sprays of kontakt pot-spray they are totally loose and put nearly no physical resistance to your fingers - i use these two rows for sends to effects as due to those loose pots i can turn them very quickly and just "stab" a signle sound to a reverb for example. the row with the silver caps are detented pots that i use for gain - i had to higlight them with a colour so i don't get confused. the upper rows are french radiohm pots - they have a thicker shaft so i have to use different screws. they are full plastic and have a really nice feeling - i use them for eq'ing. i didn't want to use a next batch of the ultra loose knobs i used below because for eq i rather want a pot that's a little stiff so it's more accurate. i in fact would rather use silver knobs for all my controls - the only problem is that here in poland it's difficult to get those. these ten i have are actually from an old reloop mixer... those plack pot caps have the best feeling of any cap i can get around here so i had to compromise the colour... oh and those screws by the faders - they aren't hex. those are simple cross screws. and to the plywood - you know i was kind of a bit of a bitch here. because when i started to think about the casing i first searched for a company that might make me something like that in walnut with a cnc cutter or so. after a few weeks of searching i couldn't even find a company which would make me any case like this AT ALL so again i had to do it diy. so i went to a simple castorama shop (something like OBI) and searched for materials. again i couldn't really find anything. i even thought about nice floor panels but i would have to buy above one cubic meter and this would cost a lot. so i just thought - hey i just make a temporary box out of plywood for a beta and later i'll search for something neater. so i went to this dude with this huge saw in this castorama and told him those measurements of my parts and he started to cut them. when i came back and wanted to pay him i asked for the price. he told me it's 4 zloty. (one dollar). so i asked - okay that's for the cutting but how much for the material. he again said 4 zloty... so at that moment there was nothing more to think about. okay it's plywood. but for that price ? bargain. i'll use that money up for better parts. oh and before someone asks - those fader-caps are actually original reloop fader caps. probably one of the most expensive parts of this box because they sell those at a horribly high price and i couldn't find anything more fitting.

alright - maaaassiiivve update - i stopped working on this project a while ago because i wanted to make a sid for my friend but as you can see in a bunch of other topics by myself on the forum from last week the sid project died and i'm leaving it for a few days so i can finish this box here and not be frustrated about the sid not working... so as you can see- buttons are mounted, knobs are mounted, fadercaps arrived today so i mounted the faders and the caps too. okay i guess with a few small additions this box could look much better. without all those screws for example. but i have to admit that i'm not really a friend of the "super clean" finishing of the midi boxes and for me stiffness and druabilty are much more important. also the pots could be actually pcb mounted or at least hidden but again - when they are mounted like this it's much easier to change a pot in case of failure even before a gig. i'm thinking that - when it is diy - it will always look like diy.

of course it was something much easier - i was sure that thorsten made the code the way that this will work right out of the box without some weird rearanging of the signs at the lcd. in the main.asm there is this function where you choose your protocol - it's default set to logic control but with ableton live i was using the mackie control protocol - changing this single line solved the thing.

fixed the din bottom - but i guess i'll get the same answer... my soldering ? it depends actually - i mostly add a bit of tin to the tip and then try to apply tin to my pins without actually touching them - so they won't get overheated. so basically it's rather applying tin to the soldering iron.

probably you're right. the look of the core actually ended like this about two days ago when i was totally exhausted and frustrated about this whole thing and started to search for errors everywhere and just soldering around the whole board desperately searching for an answer. it just sucks - voltages are all ok, interconnections are perfectly fine with the other modules (all of them work with my old v2 core which QBAS made a long time ago for me) and all tests run smoothly besides all related to the din modules. it's totally frutrating. as my bookings are starting to fill up for this year (first gigs in two weeks) i have to drop this thing i'm working on (it was a sid meant as a surprise present for my good friend) and concentrate on my ableton live controller based on my old board without which i cannot play my live-sets. i'm very afraid about this project right now too because the fact that this new core doesn't work means that i'm making some major mistakes already at the moment of stuffing and soldering everything together. so i'm about 100% sure that when i launch my ableton controller there will be some major problems that i'll not be able to cope with. it's actually quite sad. i guess i will be able to do the "digital" side of my controller but having in mind how long i was fighting with the "analog" side (i lost a lot of hair before i got my last midi controller based on pots to stop sending midi garbage due to bad grounding). i made a terrible mistake selling most of my midi gear too afford parts for my midiboxes. failure right now is not an option as i drained my money resources and am now completely dependend on what will come out of this. again - i'm deeply thankful for all the help in all those threads i spread around the board about problems with my new projects and back off for some time to clear my head. thanks.

i found a weird bug - i have only 2.39 volts on the osc2 port with my crystal. does this mean the crystal might be damaged?