Mr modnaR

i think though, that if you short across each button, the resulting current draw may be too much for the fuse. or i may be wrong i don't know. ???

i couldn't see the negative red 40x2 you sure it's them that did it? i think the negative blue will work with a red filter too: standard: with all but red taken out in photoshop:

you'll have to turn them 90 degrees. the fuses could be blowing because of the misplaced buttons, though i'm not sure.

excellent news, thanks TK!!!

those tactile buttons are the problem i believe. opposing pins are connected internally, so you have the switches acting like they're all pressed at once.

hi all, i need to know if it's ok to wire all the din & dout 'VS' pins to a metal support panel, and then connect the grounds of all buttons and encoders and LEDs to this? many thanks

so.........when does the MidiBox EyeToy come out? ;D

suggestion: how about putting two leds above each encoder, so that when you switch between them affecting the LFO/Filter, the led lights up above the corresponding word?

me also!!! really annoyed about that one. if you want something that looks like that picture, you'll need a negative green LCD, with a red filter in front of it. or wait till they make OLED screens in red. i'm gonna wait for the latter.

@wilba, you can get pots with a push pull switch too. they're used in electric guitars.

nah i meant 'would it be enough'? you said dropping 7V to 5V would be a close call for a 7805.

don't they do pots that have a 'click-off' setting? like with radios, you turn it fully anticlockwise until it clicks to turn off the radio, but if it's on, the pot just does volume.

post a picture of both sides of your Core and your SID, and we can all laugh ;D we can try and help you. get a picture using a nice digital camera with macro mode, and a high resolution if possible, so we can see everything.

black blocks are correct until you load up mios, when it should say 'Ready.'.

it is a toroidal one, why is that better? do they give out less hum?

...so no MBWashingMachines!!!!! ;D

thanks for the reply! i went with a different one in the end. it outputs 4x7VAC. i'll connect two in series for 14VAC and two in parallel for 7VAC at twice the current capacity of one secondary. 7*1.42=9.94VDC how much will the rectifier and 7805 take away? i have almost 5V to play with, right? cheers

cool, yeah maplins sell some ok stuff, but the staff really should get transferred back to McDonald's. i was looking for the same this as you, and after looking around, found that rswww.com are freakin' expensive. they sell these tools for £60 upwards to like £150!! craazy. one of the traders that comes into the garage where i work said that he could only get the insulated crimp connector tool, and then separately by the dies for using the tool for non-insulated crimp connectors. the tool was £30 and the dies were £50!!! can't figure that one out myself. aaaaanyway, i found the best deal was www.kustompcs.co.uk, where i bought a nice pair of ratcheting crimpers for £24.50 not including shipping. and it's pretty good actually. here's the link to the tools: http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_1993.html hope this helps.

you need a crimping tool. whereabouts do you live?

i would say 500mA is not enough. LCD backlights vary, but they usually draw around 250-450mA. you have to then add on what the core draws, not forgetting any LEDs on the control surface, if you have any.

what do you mean by: "Sharing the same PSU did create a ground loop. So i reverted."?

how? ???

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=1214645 would this work for a psu for my SID? it outputs 7VAC and 17VAC. i'd regulate them to 5VDC and 15VDC. i'm just a bit unsure whether or not it would work being that it is a flyback transformer allegedly.... cheers

yeah the high current draw only happens for an instant, so you may be ok, i was just warning you that it may happen.

it would work, but you'd have to place a cap at the end of each length of wire. if you have enough caps i guess that might be ok. the only possible problem i can see with doing it that way, is that each cap has to 'fill up' with charge when you turn it on, and the resulting current draw may be too high for the 7805. hope this helps.