Mr modnaR

well, look first at what you can get out of and put into the core: analog and digital signals. now try to think of a way to make a robot respond to those signals. (hint: pots could be used as joint position sensors, digital outs could be used to control relays, which in turn control motors/rotors/chainsaws/whatever)

that's a cool box! well done! i like the whole 'splinter cell' look to it. can you show us the back? (or is it as messy as mine will be? ;D)

me too, they're all blurry and small now.

cool man, cheers.

are you still talking about buttons, or have you just been to a brothel?

and if they're no good, don't worry, i can just use them for a UFO hoax. ;D

pay me the air fare, and i'll go!!

i think he meant wav or mp3 samples. 8)

no probs, i'll be in touch when they arrive.

what's the word, big bird? want me to order some from Farnell?

it's easy, just try to build a MIDIbox in under a minute. 8)

RS stock number: 664-339 haven't tried them, but they look ok. if you're really looking for laptop feel keys, there are keyboard switches available with nice square keycaps, like laptop keys, but alas they'e not panel mount. :'(

don't worry, i've been working on mine for months, but i've learnt in the past that taking your time to do something right is far more rewarding in the end than rushing it, and then having what looks like a Borgupine(TM ;)) on your desk and sheepishly admitting to your friends and family that you did make it yourself, and yes it is supposed to look like that.

lol, thanks. unfortunately, geek humour only works on geeks, so my material isn't a 'good investment'. ;D ;)

lol, that phrase marks roughly the middle of the expense/time curve, which is exponential by the way! jus warnin ya. ;)

oh well, nevermind. actually, i think i have the internals of an old inverter for a ccfl, i seem to recall measuring it at some point, and it put out 40V. i can't recall the frequency. i think all inverters make the current alternate too, they switch the current on and off really fast.

a light source set in the palm, and LDRs on the end of each finger?

well i wouldn't like to say it'd be ok in case i'm wrong, but i'm pretty sure they wouldn't make you get a separate inverter just to operate the backlight. you could try it at a lower voltage (say, 1.5V off an AA battery) and if it's got an iverter, it should come on, albeit dimly. you may want to try it in a dark room.

if you do a search for NorthernLightX and PSU, you should come up with his thread for a psu with all voltages needed for all midiboxen, so, just remove the parts you don't need. sorry to fob you off with a 'Search and RTFM' type answer, but i gotta go to work (to pay off my midibox habit ;))

don't you need four? ???

for the 7805 with 2A capability, just check the datasheet on your local electronics suppliers website. for PSU designs, it depends what you want. you need to tell us what voltages you require. if it's just 5V for the core, just get a 5V transformer, and plug the output of that into the Core. just make sure it have a high enough current rating. i would reccommend 2A+ to be on the safe side. hope this helps.

you can get high current voltage regulators. i have a 2A one. i think 'normal' 7805s can handle 1A. i'm not sure what doc says is exactly true, but i may be wrong. i think it's more the face that most (i think) voltage regulators have internal safety devices which turn the VR off if it gets too hot. if you find that happening, get a 2A one, and that should be fine. definately put heatsinks on them with a little cpu thermal transfer paste though. hope this helps.

count me in for four!! do you take paypal?

12X1.42=17.04VDC going into it, make sure you heatsinkerize it.

it quotes "The EL driver is: NEC's NEL-D32-46" try looking for that on the PCB, though it may have been 'blobbed over'. i think it's there, and you just put 5VDC to the EL pins, but don't quote me in a court of law. ;D