Snoozr

There's a guide to soldering/wiring your LCD - worth a read if you haven't done this before. Have a search and you'll find it. Also, don't forget to read up on MIOSStudio for application uploads and so on.

FWIW this was resolved by replacing the three bad cores with new ones from Smash. Fortunately Core 3, which was a little sketchy there initially, appears to be doing ok for now. Electrical tape on the socket worked out also as a failsafe.

I seem to remember the server or my internet connection was slow that night, so I probably clicked submit multiple times and it hung multiple times. Didn't know it was submitting multiple copies - apologies for the trouble.

It wasn't clear if you tried rewiring your LCD but it might be worth a shot. I inverted the second column of pins and the LCD was "dead". When I fixed it, it was fine. I thought it was dead but it was the pot at P2_CORE1. Make sure this is cranked up.

Bummer.... Well anyway, for the next person who reads this thread, what I could have done (and will do after another Smash run) was put electrical tape/painters tape on the sockets making sure to leave only the relevant places uncovered. That should cut down on problems.

(Make that pins *7* & 9)

I'm almost positive I got socket 28 too at some point. And sockets 8 & 9 at some point. The weird thing is that PIC 3 came back. Kyo, were you able to figure out anything to revive the PIC? It would be great if I could avoid buying 3 more PICs.

So authentic - laughed my head off at this... http://www.latenightwithjimmyfallon.com/blogs/2010/01/neil-young-sings-pants-on-the-ground/ For those outside the US, this guy made up a song called Pants on the Ground and sang it on a pop-idol TV show. Have a look on YouTube before seeing the cover version.

Hi Wilba, Yes, you’re right about my getting the 5 and 6 labels flipped the first time around. Anyway, sorry for the confusion and I’ll use the PCB labels. Also, about the stereo – sorry for the bad description. I meant what you said re: the output of "SID 4" aka U1_SID2 will always be the left channel. Just ignore this if necessary. I’ll work on this first. I looked at the diagram and it appears there is nothing in the way between these two in terms of connectivity. So then I tested connectivity and it’s there. I did the test by touching the pin on the PIC and the socket of U2_SID1 to rule out bad soldering. Also U1_CORE1 pin 24 is connected to U1_SID1 pin 8. * “This suggests something wrong between U1_CORE2 pin 24 and U1_SID2 pin 8. This is connected. So I’m thinking it’s the PICs. By the way, PIC3 -> Sids '5' and '6' are now fine (not sure why but it’s an improvement). I went back to MIOS V 1.9F as I had upgraded them to V 1.9G. Didn’t change anything. To really test the PICs, I removed PIC3. I put PIC 1 where PIC 3 was (i.e., the formerly good spot). I also out PIC 4 in PIC 1’s spot. PIC 4 gives good output on U2_SID1 (a.k.a. 'Sid 1') but nothing on U1_SID1 (a.ka. 'Sid 2'). This is the pattern it exhibited in its original spot and moreover is the reverse of what the previous problem was (namely bad 'Sid 1', good 'Sid 2'). PIC 1 gives nothing on U2_SID3 ('Sid 5') and is fine on U1_SID3 ('Sid 6'). This is also consistent with its behavior in its original socket and inconsistent with the previous Ux_SID3 results. To finish the test, I put PIC 2 in the original PIC 1 socket, and PIC 3 in the original PIC 2 socket. (PIC 1 went to the PIC 3 spot and PIC 4 went back to it’s original PIC 4 spot, but that was immaterial here). PIC 2 sounded on U2_SID1 but not U1_SID1, which again puts the spotlight on the PIC as opposed to Ux_SID1. Good PIC 3 did fine on both channels of Ux_SID2, again corroborating all the above. So I guess new PICs are in order(?) Is there any way of reviving them? Kind of weird that 3/4 of them went out somehow. I remember doing de-static on my hands before working with them, but guess that wasn’t good enough.

LOL - thanks. Being a noob isn't the greatest but I suppose I might as well have some fun with it. Maybe someday I will get to :sorcerer:

OK - I tried the 1K resisitor test. It replicates what I got before. Sids 1, 4 & 8 when connected to their J3s/J23s make no output and Sid 6 makes half output. The rest generate normal testtone output.

I have some wire with a solid copper core (the box says it's called hook-up wire). You can use a pliers to bend this around like a PCB trace. It lies flat against the bottom of the board and it will not come unbent easily when laid flat under there. That's how I made some banksticks once. I did a number of individual little leads like above but never thought to run a track - great idea.

I don't think there's any way to tell from the picture. It depends on what order your LCD's pin sockets are in and which way you soldered the wires (which are hidden in the pic). Anyway, once you do get the LCD sorted, I always write a big letter 'C' on the part of the cable that is closest to the CORE. And I use White-Out ink correction fluid to make a letter 'T' on the Top side of the IDC connector (top for me is the edge of the board where pins 1 & 28 are). Sometimes one letter is easier to see than the other. That way I don't have to think about it much ever again.

* Attach to stick and make back scratcher. * Paste on antennae and make a bug toy. * Make a pair of ice cleats for G.I. Joe action figure.

Hi Wilba, Thanks for the suggestions. Here’s some findings. For good Sid 2 pin 8 to bad Sid 1 pin 27, it’s fine. For bad Sid 1 pin 8 to good Sid 2 pin 27, nothing. Guessing bad input to Sid1 somewhere. For good Sid 3 pin 8 to bad Sid 4 pin 27, it’s fine except that the stereo channel switched over as compared to Sid 3 by itself. For bad Sid 4 pin 8 to good Sid 3 pin 27, nothing. Bad input again(?) For good Sid 5 pin 8 to bad Sid 6 pin 27, it’s 1/2 volume. Bad output(?) For bad Sid 6 pin 8 to good Sid 5 pin 27, it’s fine. Occasionally when I test this it’s full volume for a split second and then goes down to half volume. For good Sid 7 pin 8 to bad Sid 8 pin 27, it’s fine except stereo channel switched. For bad Sid 8 pin 8 to good Sid 7 pin 27, nothing. Bad input to Sid8(?) Resistors check out (R70-R77, R2’s, R3’s, R22’s, R23’s, R4’s, R24’s) and all caps in the area have correct polarity. I was able to follow the bad output track and check connectivity all the way through to J23B and on to the audio output. It looks like I don’t have any 1K resistors so I will have to go to the store and get back on that one. I have some 10K ones - wasn't sure if this was going to mess something up.

Hi all, I'm having some problems passing the testtone stage. Maybe it's coincidence but there is some symmetry that might be worth reporting. No SIDs in at the moment, just jumpering pins 8 and 27. SID 1: completely silent, SID 2 - loud and clear. SID 3 - loud and clear, SID 4: completely silent SID 5: quiet but audible ("1/2 strength"), SID 6 - loud and clear. SID 7 - loud and clear, SID 8: quiet but audible ("1/2 strength") Note my numbering system of SIDs is straight right-to-left, i.e., "SID1" above is J2_SID1 whereas "SID 2" is J1_SID1. I checked for bad soldering and shorts. Was unable to see any shorts. Redid a few solder joints that looked crummy. Will try one more time tomorrow but think I got the big ones and these were all in the lower part of the board possibly under currently unused jumpers etc. There is a thread here that mentioned checking the 9V jumpers on J1+J2_SID1 et al. These have connectivity/are jumpered. J1+J2 are connected to J73 which has pins 2&3 bridged for PSU A. J4 has no bridges. J71 has 2&3 jumpered. Another thread mentioned the amp circuit being worth checking/testing. I'm having a tough time locating the amp circuits on the R2 schematics and I'm unsure how to test it when (if!) I find it. I tried to get started on the SID interconnection tests. However, I am not sure which pins are A0, A1, etc. Just for fun I uploaded the app to Core 1 and used at the default pin A0 on “dead†SID 1. I got +5V on pins 8 and 25. I got +9V on pin 28. I am using PSU Option A. LCD powers up. I passed all the previous checks about testing for +5V in various places. I read everything on the "6582 testtone" + "sid testtone" searches to no avail. Thanks!

I was just thinking the same thing the other day. Did a search that day and also saw it looks like it's been several months...

It looks like I am short two 100nF monolithic caps for C13_SID1 and C14_SID 1 (must have lost them). In a previous Core build, I bought a number of 100nF Kemet Conformally Coated Axial Ceramic Capacitors listed as C3, C7, and C8 on this core diagram. http://www.avishowtech.com/mbhp/mbhp_coreR4c.html The monolithic caps that came with the Smash MB-6582 kit look almost identical to the ones noted above - they look like a small yellow bead with some impossibly small lettering in red on it. They do not look like the ceramic caps pictured in the MB-6582 parts list. However, mine are not labeled as "monolithic". Also the microscopic lettering is not identical between mine and the Smash ones (I can go get the specific letters under a magnifying glass if it helps). Anyway, I was wondering if mine can be safely substituted. Please excuse my ignorance and thanks for the help. - - - The full specs are here in case it's relevant. Mouser #: 80-C412C104K5R Mfr. #: C412C104K5R5TA Desc.: Conformally Coated Axial Ceramic Capacitors 50volts .1uF 10% X7R 10% Mouser data sheet: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/640/828.pdf

Thanks for the good ideas - I'll give them a go. :clover:

Hi all, It looks like I missed the note and took the populate-the-headers recommendation too far and populated JD1-JD8 although I am planning on using the Pactec case. To make matters worse, I separately bought long 40-pin SILs and soldered them in large blocks to do so. My guess is that this will be more difficult to desolder. As a noob, I find desoldering a standard component with 2 joints a delicate challenge, but 40 joints seems like a whole other dimension. Is this a next-to-hopeless situation or is there some way to get the ribbon cable where it needs to go? Desperately seeking ideas here...thanks. Tried searching on JD1 6582 but there was only one post.

Thanks for clearing that up -- I also looked up ground plane and got to learn something as a side bonus :) As for the splicing, I've purchased 4 faulty black PSUs on ebay, then one good grey one. The original grey receptacles were very difficult to locate, and of course the grey one's connector doesn't fit the circular 7-pin MB-6582 receptacle. I also didn't want to buy a grey C64 solely for salvaging a receptacle because I would have no use for the rest of the C64. The best solution for me was to splice. Thanks again for fixing me up.

Hello, Sorry for the basic question which was not able to be cleared up after lengthy scrutinizing of the PCB schem and forum searching. I am having a bit of difficulty determining which hole of J1 corresponds to ground. I have spliced a black (12V) C64 plug onto a grey (9V) C64 PSU. The original black 7-pin DIN was: 1.......7 ..2...6.. 3...4...5 ......... ..8..9... as viewed from upside down (sorry - that's the way I made my notes) and according to this notation 6 is +5V and 4 is ground. On the MB-6582, 2 and 6 are bridged whereas there is no trace leading to 4. There is also no trace leading to the pin labeled GND on J1A. I'm probably missing something extremely basic but my very limited knowledge suggests that the electricity has to "go out" somewhere, hence I need a connection to ground. Thanks and happy new year :)

Hi all, Wanted to see if anyone has a spare 5-pin PSU connector for sale. I am trying to get power to an MB-6582. I have the PSU and need a receiving connector for it to plug in to. Trying to avoid buying an entire C 128 as I haven't any use for it except for this connector. Also, any suggestions on parts archives welcome. Thanks.

Sorry for the basic question but does anyone know how I would determine the right fuse for a cream-colored C128 PSU? (Tried searching the forum but it was giving me every word with "fuse" in it, e.g., refuse confused, etc. Also tried searching with Google, Yahoo, etc. but it looks like there is a No Robots command somewhere)

Hee hee - I just had another idea. Maybe I could extract the FFT information, set up the pitches, volumes and durations in MIDI, and then play back a sample of a word on an MB-SID. Triangle waves would have to suffice. Might have to wait until I finish the MB-6582 to get more oscillators. Anyway, f I ever get around to this, the first word will be "Thorsten" and the second "Wilba" ;)