unrise_lyrical

Hey guys! Hope this post finds everyone in good health and good spirits! I managed to pick up an old Roland JX-3P synth off ebay for cheap a week or two ago, and have been fixing a few little issues with it since. I was told the pitchbend wheel didn't work, and when I opened up the synth I could see that the pcb in the pot had broken through the resistive strip. Anyway, I had a look around online and couldn't find a pot that matched it... here are the details: Manufacturer: ALPS Printing: 100KB "3N4N" from that (and the fact its a pitchbend pot) I assume its a 100k linear taper? I can't find the exact pot even listed anywhere online. The weird thing about it (to my uneducated eye, anyway) is that it has 4 wires coming from it. The standard 3 at one end...but there is also another one on the opposite side of the standard 3. It is around that one that the PCB has broken off...from where the 4th wire connects...there is a small metal strip in the PCB that runs to where the resistive material is in the pot. Can anyone give me a hand finding a suitable replacement? Cheers, Andrew

Hilarity ensues :thumbsup: There ARE other electronics projects on here that don't HAVE to involve midi :tongue: I am not interest in MIDI functionality, as that would completely change the creative approach with the keyboard. I would much prefer to keep the inherent limitations of the instrument in that regard.

Hey guys, I wasn't specifically saying I was going to use the 10K pot that came with the pitchbend wheel...I was just saying that that is its value :) I have no problems changing it to something else...I mean...obviously I could put a 100k pot in there...but it would only be bending +/- 5 cents or so...not really enough to be useful. And to lylehaze, the keyboard has no MIDI capabilities, and I am not interested in giving it any....just keen to try and expand its functions in an easy way (ie. pitchbend) Thanks for the help so far guys! I will try and get a closer look at what the standard master tune pot is...I would ASSUME for something like that, where the value is increasing at a set rate...it would surely be linear yes?

Hey guys, Haven't been on in ages, hope everyone is well. I have a casiotone 501 laying around in good working order, but I want to try and put a pitchbend wheel into it. For those that don't know the Casiotone 501, its the same as the one in this pic: The reason I think this is possible is that the keyboard has a master tune pot on the back, which really works in the same way....its not a MASSIVE swing in pitch (im guessing a major 2nd at MOST....probably only a half step even) but its better than nothing, and still helps breathe a bit of life into the dorky sounds it makes. I bought one of the following: http://www.analoguehaven.com/doepfer/spareparts/modwheel/ with the intention of installing that and re-wiring master tune pot to the mod wheel pot instead. This is where a few issues come into play however. Those that remember my posts from about a year ago may remember...I am not a wizz with electronics :) I THINK (its hard to access the back of it to read clearly) that the master tune pot is 100K value...and I would assume it would be linear. The mod wheel comes with a 10K linear pot...but to make calculations more confusing...the mod wheel, through its' entire sweep, goes about 40% of the pots full sweep. So I guess my main question is...how can I get it set up so a pot that is only using 40% of its sweep distance, is giving the same resistance (in that 40%) as a 100k pot's entire spectrum of resistance? I figure I will have to probably make another little pcb with other components to modify the current before/after it goes through the pitchbend pot yes? Any advice greatly appreciated! :)

Hey all. So I just scored a bargain on ebay. An excellent condition (almost flawless) Casiotone 501. One of these bad boys: Sadly in the picture I couldn't see if it offered MIDI out or not, but on picking it up I realised it has a MS socket...whatever the hell that is. Looks kind of like a midi socket...but not. Is it possible to modify the keyboard for MIDI out? I only have a 25 key axiom at the moment...so if I could get reliable midi out from this keyboard it would be excellent.

how about this one? http://www.travelguideuniverse.com.au/Step-Down-Transformer-2pin-USA-Japan-Others-to-AU-Korjo-----/SDT98.htm?feed=getprice.com.au&gdftrk=gdfV2426_a_7c507_a_7c1755_a_7cSDT98 cheap enough...and in my experience Korjo stuff is always pretty good. Once again though...does it matter that the step-down transformer is rated to 110-120v and the space echo is 100v? here is the info on it: Allows USA /Japanese 110-120 Volt appliances, 200mA (24Watt) or less to operate in Australia & NZ Typical products are shavers, mobile phone chargers, radio/cassette MP3 players...) USA / Japan two pin appliances can be plugged into the SDT, which is then plugged into the AUs/NZ wall socket. The SDT transforms the 240V power supply down to 110V Input: 240V Freq 50Hz Output 115V AC 200mA (24VA)

the space echo is 100v, and the step-down transformer converts 240 mains into 110. I dont really want to go opening the space echo up if I can help it.

So the space echo arrived from Japan finally. I have had a friend offer me a stepdown transformer he has...but its an American one (110v)...this is from Japan and on the back it says: AC100v 50/60hz 16W Jap and US plugs are the same...but I wasn't sure if 110v would be a problem running into a 100v? it was made in like....1973 or something....so I wouldn't imagine it has anything in there that senses slightly too much power and transforms it or anything....

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Motherboard-Circuit-Board-PLCC-IC-Extractor-Puller-Tool_W0QQitemZ310146009784QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET?hash=item4836248ab8&_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177&_trkparms=240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50 would these be suitable? I found alot of different designs...

cheers wilba, I will pick up a braid first (don't even know what they are/look like to be honest, but I will look into it after my exams). One question I shouldnt even be asking, but I got overly excited and put them in...is how do i safetly remove the ICs again? I don't want to risk bending the legs on them...have tried removing some in the past and NEARLY snapped the legs off (didnt though...but it was close! they were like...90 degrees bent).

http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/components/pdf/AOL0000PE1.pdf Going by this document it would appear as though type b is the linear one yea...even though it labels H/BH as the linear type (Albeit "special"...how cryptic)

So as per the other thread in here, I am tracking down some new 60mm faders. I had a look on Farnell (seems to be the easiest electronics site to navigate!) and came up with a HELL of alot of results. I found 5 different 60mm 10k ohm panasonic faders...all similar price...but I have no idea what their real differences are? Also, I can't see if it is mentioned whether they are linear or log? im sure it is...but not in language I can understand (ie. I don't speak smart electronics talk). The one thing I did notice between them all is they obviously have different power ratings. Is there any specific desired power rating for midibox64s? or just the less the better? here they are: http://sg.farnell.com/panasonic/ewaq10c15a14/potentiometer-slide-10k/dp/8796157 http://sg.farnell.com/panasonic/ewaq30c15d14/potentiometer-slide-10k/dp/8796190 http://sg.farnell.com/panasonic/ewaq12c15b14/potentiometer-slide-10k/dp/8796173 http://sg.farnell.com/panasonic/ewaq10c15d14/potentiometer-slide-10k/dp/8796165 http://sg.farnell.com/panasonic/ewaq30c15a14/potentiometer-slide-10k/dp/8796181 also found these ones: http://sg.farnell.com/bourns/pta6043-2015dp-a103/potentiometer-slide-10k-60mm/dp/1688417 http://sg.farnell.com/bourns/pta6044-2015dp-a103/potentiometer-slide-10k-60mm/dp/1688419 http://sg.farnell.com/bourns/ptb6043-2010bp-b103/potentiometer-slide-10k-60mm/dp/1688410 any advice greatly appreciated :)

ahh, ok, I will have to buy a solder suckermethinks, I dont have a desoldering braid. I will leave this go a week or two while I finish my exams, then I will get a new soldering iron tip at the same time...I think life will be alot easier with one :) thanks for the help guys!

hahaha, I have to say you are wrong there mate. I used to be into modified cars...NOWHERE is there more bullshit talked than in cars...tis why I got out of it...it was pathetic. Nah, there are too many little things wrong with the midi controller....3 of the faders dont work....one of them only works intermitently (sp?) and there is some weird issue with it's power....if you switch it on and contantly move a control...its fine...but as soon as it sits there idle for more than 30 seconds...the screen starts flickering and it sort of freezes...dont know if its a problem with the power supply, or with a (id assume?) capacitor or something? building up too much power? that was my guess...if you are constantly doing something it is using juice...but if it lets it build up it goes funny. The way I have been thinking about it is this. To want to use this live, I really would want to either FULLY clean out, or replace, all the faders. There is still a chance 3 wont work...and even after all that...the power issue may still be an issue. AND the resolution. Instead though, I could quite easilly use it's case and put a midibox64 inside...customise it a bit....put in some pots.....just seems like I could make it a hell of a lot better! will obviously cost alot more money...but I will end up with something I actually want to use :)

The more I look at this...the more I think that there are too many bugs in this midi controller :( However...it is an excellent steel enclosure...16 soft touch fader knobs....26 or so decent buttons that fit well in the the case.....i feel a custom midibox64 coming on... :) thanks for the replies guys

I did it for the first time last night mate, its not as scary as it looks! I used needle nose pliers as someone else in here mentioned. The trick is to get the tip of the pointy bit in the grooves of one side of the needle nose pliers, and the opposite corner in the grooves of the other side of the pliers...that probably doesnt make too much sense but as soon as u start applying pressure, the triangular tab will start to bend, then you do the opposite for the other one...bend them enough so you can wiggle the wire in there, then squeaze the crap out of it both ways so its box-shaped...a bit of solder on the wire and you are good to go! The hardest part I found was sticking it into the plastic housing...sometimes it just doesnt want to go!

It is a towel :) hehe, I was trying to go for something that would make it easier for the macro setting to focus :) but thanks for the advice! Thanks for all the replies guys. Yea, I had a feeling I may be using too much solder :( I really need to save up and get a new soldering iron I think...this one is at least 20 years old (decent Weller one...but its OLDDD...my dad's one). The two that you circled wilba...what do you reccomend I do? Just heat it up again and hope the solder goes down the joint? Or buy a solder sucker, remove the solder and try again?

That raises another interesting question actually. Whilst info on Niche automation stations is bloody scarse, the small amount I have read in the past said the resolution of them isnt the best, and they are a bit clunky. would replacing the faders help this at all? or is that other components fault?

I have been a little quiet due to university assignments and exams, as well as waiting on parts to arrive from smashTV. But they have finally arrived, and I have made them (there is another thread about that floating around). But here are a few more pics of where I am up to anyway :) Holes drilled for midi cables....had to sand them to the right size by hand...took ages! The finished components sitting in the box...fitting a power supply PCB in there as well is going to be bloody hard! anyways, thats all for now! :)

Well I have finished soldering the CORE, DIN and SID modules for my synth :) I figured I would post some pictures up on here to see if my soldering is decent enough in more experienced people's opinions. I have only really started soldering stuff in the past 2 months, and I am using an OLD soldering iron...but enough excuses. here are the pics :) Figured I would upload biggish ones...if what I did is right, it could maybe be referenced by others in the future? Who knows... CORE TOP CORE UNDERSIDE SID TOP (wanted to make it my desktop background so its a tad large! SID UNDERSIDE DIN TOP DIN UNDERSIDE Any advice greatly appreciated. Please ignore the little bits of dust looking stuff on them. Used some 100% alcohol to clean the flux up along with paper towels...takes a while to get rid of all the little paper fibres :P

so I really would be better off de-soldering these and pulling them apart?

Hey all, So I picked up one of the old Niche Automation Stations for cheap today. Its pretty rough around the edges...previous owner must have smoked like a chimney...the case still wreaks of cigarettes after washing it twice. Anyway, 3 of the 16 faders dont work (was aware of this before purchasing) and I want to find out if they are busted...or just too dirty and need a clean...ALL of them are filthy. How do you clean faders? they are soldered onto the PCB so I cant really go opening them up...but is there anything you can spray inside to clean them out? thanks guys. EDIT: forgot to mention...they are alpha faders.

I am a newbie so dont take what I say as gospel, but I am pretty certain you won't need anything special to use an LCD....for the mbSID they connect directly to the core so id assume it will be the same for this. Looks like a sweet project bro :) looking forward to seeing how it ends up

ahh thanks mate :) was looking at that to build it but the picture didnt load til I went to the revisions page or something. All finished now! :) thanks again!

Hey all So my stuff arrived from Smash TV (amazing quality!) and I have banged the DIN and CORE module out easilly enough, but I am a little confused with the SID module. Out of the 2 voltage regulators that came (afaik thats what they are?) I used the 7812 one, as I am using a 6581 SID chip and I read in previous posts of people using that one with the 6581 chip. My main question though is regarding the C1 and C2 filter caps. Which ones do I use? I cant find anything written about which ones to use :S I assume I use the 470J ones, not the (cant even read what the other ones are....5800J, 3800J or 6800J? one of those). From what I have read the filter caps are for the filter cutoff...but yea...I dont know which ones to use...or their orientation (does it even matter?) Had a look for some pictures of close up SID modules and couldnt find any that shoed what was used... any advice given greatly appreciated!