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m00dawg last won the day on December 24 2020

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About m00dawg

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    MIDIbox Guru
  • Birthday 03/01/1982

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  1. Do you hear sound from both the left and right output? If so, you definitely have 2 SIDs. Per the docs, the SIDs are grouped into stereo pairs. So the sammichSID, while it does support 2 SIDs, maps them to left and right. So it only has 1 SID group but 2 actualy SIDs. You can use the multi-engine to control the SIDs independently, however. And you can also use the stereo for some really neat effects (like setting an LFO on each of the SID's PWMs at a slightly different rate). Have a look at ucapps.de for all the MidiBox usage documentation on how to use the multi-engine if you really want
  2. I haven't used PickIt for MIDIBOX stuff but as I recall, if you're getting that error it may be because you need to elect to power the chip using power from the Pickit itself (as in the chip is not being powered externally). If it's for the CORE8 platform, it should be a 5V PIC. It takes some fiddling to get it working I found when I've had to use it.
  3. Just to close the book on this topic, I found 220 Ohm to be quite nice with my old control surface (using SmashTV's yellow LEDs). I would guess my previous dim LED woes were due to some issue with the previous board and/or the power supply. It looks great and they're plenty bright (but not too bright) to be quite usable.
  4. Figured out the answer! It's the CC button on the control surface, duh! Of note, for those that haven't dove through this part of the manual, it is for the Knobs Assignments. On the MB6582 that would be the 5 envelope knobs - the ones below the matrix - when you have Control set to Knob. I only got as far as to look at teh CC events in Midi-Ox so haven't actually tried to use them yet.
  5. Yes it is! In my last attempt to build an MB6582, I never got it stable enough to actually mess with the control surface :P So it's been a lovely treat! Really looking forward to using it in earnest for some music!
  6. Had at least one person mention they cannot create a new account on the forums. I tried to create a test account just now on both Firefox and Chrome and was also unable to do so. The Captcha consistently says it fails (and there is no way to retry) even when it appears correct. I put this in news since it's not related to MidiBox hardware directly and wasn't sure where else to put it, but though I would raise the issue for visibility as well. More info is on the Discord.
  7. Finally got my MB6582 working after a VERY LONG time. At any rate, now that I have a full control surface for the MBSID (which by the way is quite intuitive - major kudos to TK, Wilba, and others that worked on it - it's just beautiful!) - I was trying to see what knobs, if any, would be sent to MIDI OUT. Since these are encoders, I figured they wouldn't be the best option for knob tweaking so it's not a huge deal if there is no way to handle knob output over MIDI - I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. I thumbed through the manual on ucapps and didn't see much mention of it b
  8. m00dawg

    MB6582 Fan

    Update, I'm rocking the Noctua (NF-A4x10, 5V) and am running it off the 5V header. At full speed it is a tad loud but does seem to keep the SIDs rather cool. I do have heatsinks on them but the heatsinks without the fan get warm (not hot) to the touch after some time of running. As expected the ones furthest from the fan are warmer than the ones next to it. All of them seem to be cooler to the touch though. So far it doesn't seem to make a huge impact to the 5V rail. I'm using the 5V switcher often recommend, although I am using it in an external power supply I made and am supplying the 6582 w
  9. Quick update on this, the method worked wonderfully! I've got my MB6582 up and running using this method. The only thing I had to do we Dremmel the backside of the top half a bit (in the front) as my right angled connections were a bit too tall (the JSTs are on the baseboard and I'm using the JST cables though couldn't find the right angled JSTs outside of AliExpress and figured that would be a long wait). Apart from that, it's working beautifully!
  10. Ah all good points! I managed to jam the resistors into the holes enough to test the control surface (carefully) and interestingly enough, the LEDs seemed brighter than they were previously. So wondering if something was up with my old baseboard maybe. I'm using the switching regulator often recommended here for the 5V, although I have it in an external enclosure such that voltage sag may be an even bigger issue for me perhaps. I'll have to see. So far so good though, but I don't yet have the baseboard fully populated (which may also explain why the LEDs are brighter perhaps if voltage sag bec
  11. Curious what resistor values folks are using with their LEDs? I'm using SmashTV's yellow LEDs and found that with 220 Ohm resistors, they seem to be a tad dim. I can tell which ones are illuminated but it tends to blend in. Since I had to solder up a new baseboard (which is working yay!) I was thinking of using something more like 100 Ohm. These are the values I calculated with the new amber LEDs I bought (in the event I couldn't repair my existing control surface). I tested the resistor values on both (with a constant 5V rather than a matrix) and it seems to be subtle for both SmashTV's
  12. ooooh the thumbwheel is a great idea! Adds even more cool-points and polish to the build too!
  13. Yes I agree with Hawkeye, beautiful work! Curious, how taxed does all this make the 5V rail? I was looking at LED choices (should I be unable to repair my old control surface and have to solder together a new one) and the number of LEDs on the panel given each LED's mA had things at like 2.7A if I did my math right. That's well above the 1A max of a typical 7805? I'm using the fancy 5V switching regulator now often recommended but back when the MB6582 first hit the scene as it were, a regular 'ole 7805 was the norm. Seems like it worked fine as far as I have seen, but curious? Sorry
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