drboom

Hi, I tried to sell this via the fleamarket a few months back, i didnt get any bites so ive decided to list it on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190538039226 any questions please direct them via ebay, Thanks and Regards drboom

I have 4 x Yamaha OPL's and 8x YAC512-M's which are new, unsoldered and from a bulk order i purchased from here some time ago. Serious offers PM or respond to thread

Hi, With permission from the ip owners i would like to part with my mb6582. Its nearly completed with the exception of the bridge wiring between the main board and the controller pcb. Most, if not all of the initial testing has been completed and solved. Boards are fully populated with pic's and a set of 6582A sids from one of wilba's bulk order. mb6582setup has been uploaded to the pic's - cloning to all slaves works no prob's. LED's and LCD's are blue. PACTEL case included - standard undrilled face plate, fan and grill - blue LED 3 x commodore 64 power supplies, 2 are the black square ones, and the other is the beige wedge "door stop" type - all purchased from ebay under the assumption they work. have tested 2 as working ok. i can sort out some pic's on request. Serious offers respond to thread or PM. Thanks and Regards

i have 2 white gm5x5x5 pcb's here. i can part with them, what are they worth to you

All, i am about 95% through a MB6582 build and have come to the conclusion that ill probably never get around to putting together the 2nd one i had planned on building. So for sale is the following 8 x 6582A SIDS purchased from wilba 1 x control and base PCB from smash - control pcb has the diodes already soldered only. 1 x complete MB6582 parts kit from smash including pics 1 x complete set of control surface parts, including switches, rotary encoders and waldorf knobs from albs. 130 x LED's 1 x 4x20 LCD display 1 x Pactec PT10 case 1 x Fan and shroud The only thing missing from this sale is the faceplate and C64 powersupply. I have been having ALOT of fun putting one of these together in my spare time over the last couple of months, and if i wasnt so goddamn busy with work i would be saving this kit so i could do it all again someday, but with a project schedule thats well into 2012 i dont see it happening anytime soon, and who knows what ill be planning on building then. this is not a fire sale so SERIOUS offers only considered via PM ONLY, i dont check this forum often so if you want to get through to me THEN SEND A PM. I can send to anywhere on earth at your expense. this kit is nearly all you need in one hit so youll be saving big $$ in consolidated shipping. For fantasy offers, send a mail to /dev/null.

err, what? , im looking for some parts for another project im doing and it sounds like the place where you get this stuff would/might have what im after.

where abouts?

where do you get this stuff wilba? is there some place that mothballs all that kind of crap? same place you got those sids?

Fantastic app. did exactly what i needed. thanks

ahhh i see. very smooth time lapse. anyone know of a software based solution for time lapse action? theres plenty to try out there, but would like to hear if anyone has any experiences to share. 1 question i do have, is there any solutions out there that can take an exsiting movie/stream and apply time lapse to it?

what did you use to do the time lapse capturing dude?

Small variant PIC18F / http://www.mouser.com / 10Mhz / 73-XT49S1000-20 / $0.55US

dont be afraid try many types of mag's. even if they look similair gloss/feel etc. Also, dont worry if your using a black page. the magazine print wont come off no matter how hot you make it. some paper types also will stick with the toner making it a little difficult to remove the paper. i soak the pcb in some soapy water for a while and massage it off with a toothbrush to get the excess paper off after i have heated it to the board. All i can say is, dont just try one and come back saying it doesnt work. you have to be prepared to experiment many times to get it right for your setup. KEEP NOTES in case you forget!, use a stopwatch. and increment your heating times by 20 seconds every time you retry. 1 more thing, cant stress this enough. CLEANLINESS!!, sand your pcb with 400+ grit wet/dry sandpaper using a sanding block and get that baby to shine, and flat!, and before you transfer clean the surface of the plate with wax and grease remover (sometimes called prepsol).

nice, but still a waste of money!. i get even better results with certain types of magazines, 90% of the time dont even need touch ups. for the aus people. "the road ahead" magazine is the best. and forget the iron. a sandwich press works awesome. of course pressing times depend on many variables, type of paper/printer/heat etc etc etc. its a suck it and see thing, i just kept records on what i used and how long i cooked it for till i got it right. ive made most modules with this method, core, burner, dout, din, sid, ltc. works great. theres a great yahoo group (http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/) that is very active and has a database of materials that can be used for diy pcb's, paper/laminators/printers etc. there is even some dudes using modified inkjet printers to print a special chemical directly onto blank PCB's to avoid having to transfer. they get some VERY fine lines using this method. BTW: dont use a sandwich press with that pressnpeel blue garbage. BTW2: Some Newer brother laser printers use a different kind of toner, requiring ALOT of heat to transfer. they dont work at all with normal paper or press n peel blue no matter how hot you try to get them up to. i found this out the hard way.

my sister confirmed mine arrived ok. looking foward to getting home and out of this god forsaken hell hole. 2 weeks to go... sigh.

updating this on the off chance that someone searches for it in the future. All done and working with the TO220 reg's. apart from the legs being reversed it was the only issue i had. I made a pcb that accomodates the different pin sizes also. so if your interested send me a pm.

the higher the number, the higher the volts. i believe the 007 can do 1Kvolts, where the 001 does 50. However higher voltage diodes take slightly longer to turn around the current flow. In this case the voltage across the regulator will go higher before the diode actually conducts. will prob make the reg run hotter i guess. just my 2c, id get this confirmed though as most of my electronics knowledge is derived from midibox.

1. check your regulator orientations. its probably backwards. that fixed the same issue for me. 2. im using a 2K TP in mine with no issues.

this is great, ive been struggling with this same idea (core pcb for hombrew) over the last couple of weeks while trying to get my project off the ground. time as always has conspired against me. however since im oversea's atm for a couple of months that idea went the way of the dodo.

seeing that this is for aus buyers, bank deposit would be nice. Paypal sux the big wang.

thats great, Ill just rework the layout before i etch it to take a T220 package. i guess one advantage of the T220 is ill be able to slide a couple of heatsinks on em if needed. thanks alot for the quick responses.

Great, thanks for that.

Sure, Was comparing spec's from the manufacturer using these 2 links. http://www.national.com/mpf/LM/LM317.html < has many variants, TO92 is missing however. perhaps it is out of production? http://www.national.com/mpf/LM/LM78M05.html < ditto for the 7805. i source my parts locally in australia from these suppliers. LM317 http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZV1615&CATID=&keywords=LM317&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID= http://www.microzed.com.au/chips.html 7805 http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZV1505&CATID=&keywords=7805&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID= http://www.microzed.com.au/chips.html

Hi all, Currently having some difficulties sourcing LM317 and 7805 in a T092 package spec. The usual sources down here in australia only stock the T220. Is the T220 suitable for substitute in the pic burner? Both variants seem to provide the same spec from what i can see, or maybe i missed something? Thanks in Advance

yep, im screwed.