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  1. I am brand new to midibox, I don't have any modules yet, as I am trying to figure out which ones to get exactly, I haven't found a sure answer to what I'm looking for specifically by looking in the forums and the general information on the ucapps site, maybe someone could help. I'm trying to make a controller for Pro Tools using 3 MF_NG modules , for 20 channels/faders total since it would be installed in an existing 20 channel console, but I'd also like to have buttons and leds for record enable, channel automation, as well as transport controls and automation selectors (read, write, latch, etc.) as well as leds for the record lights, which for me would be about 60 buttons, and 20 leds at least for the record enable lights. at least Ideally it would use mackie HUI, but I would be fine with using MotorMix if that works better.  I'm trying to find someone here who has successfully made a controller with both motorfaders AND buttons/leds who could let me know what modules I would need My first thought was to get a STM32, and then connect the MF_NG modules and DIN and DOUT modules, but in the MF_NG thread there was a post that made me think that might not work. I posted the quotes below, they are from 2012, maybe this is dated? Would it be different since I am only using 3 MF_NG modules? Could I use just a STM32 or would I have to use an LPC17 and MIDIO128? If I did need to use the MIDIO128, would I have to use the LPC17 or could I use it with a STM32? My understanding is that the STM32 is an upgrade in a lot of ways to the LPC17, and doesn't require an external burner. My goal is to keep everything as simple as possible since i'm completely new to midibox. But since it's Pro Tools we are talking about, things can't be so easy..    Sorry for so many questions, any help is greatly appreciated!! Even if i had to use older modules, that would be okay! I just don't want to get/build the wrong components.. I also wanted to make sure this kind of configuration is something other people have gotten to work in pro tools   Here are the quotes:
  2. So it wouldn't be a change of season without Mongrol breaking something. I got sick of the Orange case and its sneaky ways of making me always write circus music and I replaced my SEQv4 into a black case. On the way I've broken all the buttons on M3. What's the traditional way of troubleshooting a matrix channel? (I'm specifically asking instead of working it out myself to get it recording on the forum for others.) So far I've identified the buttons not working. Looking in the MBSEQ_HW.v4 file I can see the following # SR Pin BUTTON_STOP M3 5 BUTTON_REW M3 4 BUTTON_PAR_LAYER_C M3 6 BUTTON_GP11 M3 0 BUTTON_GP12 M3 1 BUTTON_TRACK_SEL M3 3 BUTTON_UTILITY M3 2 Which are exactly my broken buttons. What next?
  3. Things are going well with my Midibox SID construction... I've finished the CORE board and I'm loading up the SID board, but I've gotten to the point where I"m looking more into how I'm going to wire up things. I have questions and google and search on this forum aren't helping me find answers (not that they aren't there, but I'm having trouble finding them). Anyway, here it goes: LCD Wiring: While both the CORE4d and my LCD use a 16(2x8) pin connector the pin mapping is completely different. I'm wondering what's the best/easiest method for rerouting the wires in the ribbon cable... My thought was either simply cut the cable in half, separate the individual wires, connect the correct wires to each other, solder, and heat shrink them. While the colors repeat twice, the ribbon wires are color coded, so that will help make that less a headache I think. The alternative I though of was to use additional connectors and headers on a piece of stripboard and do the remapping on the board, essentially creating a little conversion board. Buttons Connections: I haven't found a wiring diagram to explain which buttons connect to which pins on the SmashTV DIN board but I did find the assignments in the software code, so I figured I'll create a chart for others in the future who have this question. I do wonder if there is a best practice or something for how to wire up all the ground pins. Do I chain them in someway? MIDI Connector wires: For the 3 wires needed for each of these I thought I might butcher an old floppy drive ribbon cable into 3 wire strips. The gauge of this wire is pretty small, will that be an issue with the MIDI signal? Audio Connector wires: Do I need a specific gauge and/or shielded cable for these connections?   Thanks!
  4. Hilfe für Projekt

    Hallo zusammen, Ich wollte mich erstmal kurz vorstellen: Mein Name ist Jason bin 18 Jahre alt und habe ein Fachabi als Elektrotechnischer Assistent mit Schwerpunkt Datentechnik. Im Moment bin ich Auszubildende Fachkraft für Veranstaltungstechnik und bin der Mann, der das Licht schön machen soll. Ich habe schon viele Freeware Lösungen als Lichtsteuerungen ausprobiert, jedoch war keine so gute wie die GrandMA onPC von MA lighting. Die Firma stellt auch große Pulte her die Weltweit auf Konzerten und TV Shows unterwegs sind. Die Billigste Version ist eine 2Port Node, sprich ein Ethernet > DMX Konverter. Jetzt habe ich mitbekommen, dass man diese Software in Verbindung mit der Node auch per Shortcuts und Midi bedienen kann. Habe nun einige Wochen rumgesurft und und bin drauf gestoßen das man das Behringer BCF2000 mit der Software per Midi verbinden kann und auch die Rückspielwege auf die Motorfader auch funktionieren, jedoch fehlen mir noch eine Menge an Tasten zur Optimalen Bedienung. Jetzt bin ich durch google und Youtube auf Midibox gestoßen. Da ich keinen Plan von Midi habe, wollte ich hier nun mal nachfragen, ob mir jemand mal die Philosophie von dem ganzen Midibox Projekt erklären kann und mich eventuell auch etwas beraten kann zu meinem Vorhaben. Vielleicht hat sich jemand schon mal genau mit dem Konzept auseinander gesetzt der mir ebenfalls weiterhelfen kann und will. Gruß Neuling Jason
  5. Those Buttons are from a Studer Console and they look really good to me. I wold like to know where they made those and if there is a chance to design my own somehow...   Does somebody know who can make such cool rubber buttons?
  6. 64 Buttons Midibox

    Hallo Leute,   Ich würde mir gerne eine Midibox bauen auf der 64 Buttons sind. Sie sollen in einer Matrix angeordet sein (8x8). Das Ganze soll dann am ende wie ein Novation Launchpad fungieren (Bild von Launchpad ist angehängt).  Ich würde für die Buttons gerne diese Digitaster von reichelt benutzen;ACTION=3;LA=446;ARTICLE=7143;GROUPID=3280;artnr=DIT+1+WS. 1. Wie kann ich die Tastendrucke zu Midi wandeln? Also was für eine Platine etc. muss ich mir dafür kaufen? 2. Würde es mit den Digitastern von reichelt funktionieren? Das wäre nämlich wichtig wegen den hörbaren klicks. Danke für eure Hilfe  :happy:  :happy:  LG diyMA  
  7. MB64e control surface

    Today I etched a few more PCBs. Now the control surface is complete. Or that is - I haven't yet soldered on most of the cables on the new boards, but components are soldered, backlight on the menu encoder is tested, ok (looks good as expected hehe) and I laid it out on the workbench to see how I want the frontpanel to be. I think I'm gonna use this setup here, unless I get any bright ideas or any bright tips :). It has 8 general purpose encoders, 8 general purpose buttons, encoder for left/right navigation, it got the enter button (besides the menu encoder, and it got the snapshot button by itself - on the same pcb as the enter button :). The buttons is just the same as in the mb6582. I have looked around the net (especially on ALBS) and found many very cool tactile switches that I could easily used for this box, but the reason why I used these buttons is that I had them in my drawer NOW, and I had a lot of em, so I figured - simple and fast - no waiting for parts etc etc. so that's why the buttons are rather boring - but I suspect they'll do the job anyway hehe. In addition - its gonna have 4 analog inputs on the back (via mini-xlr) - for expression pedals mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Since I have only one pedal now, I have to have a way to ground the unsused input easily without opening the case - so I have ordered in a bunch of dip-switches. I have thought and thought, and I think this is a cool solution - dips available from the back panel. Makes it easy to "program" when I need it, and hard to accidentally operate :). It got the 16x2 LED - wich has green letters on black background, and green backlight for knobs. Any day now, the Core8, AIN, DIN and a bunch of other goodies are dropping in my mailbox from smashTV, and once I get those, I can wire everything up and actually test it. If everything works in a satisfying way, I'm building the case next - I'm doing it simple - just bending some alu plates and put together. Give it a coat and 10 of cool paint, and we're there. If I come across a case I can use, I'll do that instead of making my own - wich takes long time even if it's simple design. Well, enough talking, lets see the picture :). - yes there is only one today :P.