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Amazing Hang Drum video


Sasha
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/tilted/ or Jaicen ,you have degree or something similar?

Check my "quote"...

No, I don't have a degree.

Unless you count my "Gradute Diploma in Asking a Real Expert, then Pretending to Be a Real Expert". ;)

But I'm thinking I might study for a degree, or at least finish the one I started. Does that count?

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I once helped a friend with an article on small studio design for a music magazine. It was a long time ago, and my copy got 'borrowed' years ago.

Because I had friends in the industry, I managed to get 2 serious professionals, one from Eastlake, and the other from Sandy Brown Associates, to talk to him about what you could do a on a tiny/no budget. They both said that the only effect egg boxes have is psycho-acoustic - they look a bit like studio tiles, so the room feels better. They agreed that they were not worth the trouble of fitting, and both  advocated other things, old carpet or better, old style carpet underlay. Fibreglass lagging under a cloth cover is good - and if can afford some plywood, or scrounge some old panel doors, you can make acoustic screens.

Years later, I made some very effective diffusers, inita=ially from old cardboard packing boxes, oped out flat and cut into wobbly strips, then improved in insulation foam, (we used a UK make called 'Jablite'), cut with a home made hot wire cutter, (do it outdoors to avoid the smelly fumes).

There are a lot of old wives tales in home studio design - the first one being that you can achieve any real kind of soundproofing. It's much harder to keep noises out than you think too. A little science goes a long way, there are plenty of books and sites, just that very few people ever read them.

And the real thing doesn't look as cool as egg boxes, especially if you paint them....

Some friend recorded a band on a farm in Devon, and I went along. The guy let us build a sort of room in his barn, out of bales of hay, used some old metal 'siding' for a reflector area. It sounded OK. We just had to shut down around milking time....

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It sounded OK. We just had to shut down around milking time....

Is that because you were souring the milk? ;) Or was it the sound leaking in?

I do have a degree in Music Technology Turuloid, as I stated earlier, which includes training in acoustics and design. That link is pretty good for a very basic and easy to build damping system, and it's the method i'd first turn to. If you check, there's also a table of absorption coefficients, which you can use to calculate problem frequencies in your room (using the handy Mode calculator on the site too!), and you can then target those specific frequencies with the design of your absorbers. Personally, I prefer to diffuse rather than absorb (especially in the upper freq's), but in very small rooms sometimes that's the only option. 

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Yeh, knowledge is only valid if gained from a university ;)

I heard stryd glues midibox members that don't search the forums before posting on his wall.

LMAO! I used to stick the search results page to their head but some people had an allergic reaction to the glue :D

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absorption vs . diffusion

AFAIK

you want to have diffusion cuz, these small nearfields have dome hi-freq transducers with wide dispersion , this makes early reflections a problem .  You dont want to have early reflections cause then you are listening to your room ambience in the mix as well.

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Yes, and no.

You want to tame reflections in appropriate amounts across the audio spectrum so as to create a room which has minimum reflections, but not excessive absorption/diffusion, either. So while you might find that the lows are fine and the highs need work, it all depends on the room.

You want a room which will allow you to create mixes which "translate" well into the "real world", whatever that is.

If your room has too much bass, too little bass, a weird flutter in the upper midrange, you will subconsciously adjust your mixes to compensate.

You basically want a room that will get you your slippers and a nice cup of tea, but won't keep telling you that everything is fine when it is not. And above all, you want to be able to trust what you are hearing.

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When I was working on an LEDE control room, a long time ago, we had an interesting discussion that I never got an answer to.

In an LEDE, you isolate the speakers from the room fabric to prevent structure borne sound getting transmitted to the listener faster than through the air - so called 'early early sound'. Effectively smearing the bass transients and worse.

In the HiFi  world it seems an article of faith to spike speakers rigidly to the floor and to prevent them moving in any way, one reason given is to stop cabinet movement doppler distorting the sound from the tweeters.

Are either of these ideas right?

Having recently heard some, I'm seriously thinking of doing a lower power music system using some of the E J Jordan full range units, trading the bass loss, (or needing a subwoofer), for the coherence and absence of a conventional crossover. I reckon they would be magic for Ambisonics.

http://www.ejjordan.co.uk/

It sounded OK. We just had to shut down around milking time....

Not sure, it could have been that you'd never have got any sane cow near the barn with the noises coming out at times...

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I beleive in http://gedlee.com  ~ waveguide theory.

check out the summa pdf.

I think I buy the books & program as well.

...Doppler distortion should be real bad/articulated then with Tannoy dual concentric speakers, which apparently using the bass cone as waveguide, opposed to the Altec 604, which suffers because the  horn in the middle shades the cone. I wont trade the JBL woofers for anything else, just try to simulate the 2235h in winisd  ;D

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...

In an LEDE, you isolate the speakers from the room fabric to prevent structure borne sound getting transmitted to the listener faster than through the air - so called 'early early sound'. Effectively smearing the bass transients and worse.

...

i think LEDE has been largely discredited, but mechanical coupling of the speakers to the room is definitely a bad thing...

...

In the HiFi  world it seems an article of faith to spike speakers rigidly to the floor and to prevent them moving in any way, one reason given is to stop cabinet movement doppler distorting the sound from the tweeters.

...

i don't know about the spikes, i just use speaker stands with lead shot inside and a rubber pad under the speaker.

one of these days i'll get back to recording something...

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