stryd_one Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Nice one ssp. I was going to say, but you left the channel before I got back:You should move the big jog up (away from you), and the knobs down (closer to you) so that you can use the box well. Small movements are better performed closer to the body, big movements further away. Gives your elbows room to move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmenator Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 Just in case someone is interested in only the jog/shuttle wheels (the rest of the parts are quite common): I still have some left, see this thread.Best regards, ilmenator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssp Posted March 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 sorry been a little busy and im still waiting for the bits from smash to arrive so i havent got much to add however my console furniture is finshed so at least i have something done.after this its just waiting for my switches and parts and kits to arrive then waiting for my case and side panels to be cut.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stryd_one Posted March 29, 2009 Report Share Posted March 29, 2009 Nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssp Posted April 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 well the kits from smash turned up today!!! :D :D :D :Dso then this means i can get on with them tonight, i am waiting for some matrix boards to arrive from china, then i can get on with the leds als.lots of things to get sorted out, and the momentary switches i have got are great, with the frosted tops and the blue integral leds lighting them up!!!pictures to follow later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLP Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 good to hear. Keep it up! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssp Posted April 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 well i spent this evening soldering the doutx board, this is the first time i have soldered in a long time and even more harder after the mini strokes. it took a while and had to keep stopping when my hands started shaking about. but with a little perseverence and concentration i managed to get the board one, and with a little cross checking with nils to make sure i did the bridging right its done.tomorrow i will do the core and the lcd screen so more to follow!!!thanks for everything guys it really is appreciated!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssp Posted April 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 i was looking over the core schematic for the midimon im making and its sinking into my head but really slowly but im going to get there. and i noticed that it has details for pots there, i checked with nils and he confirms theres two 10k potentiometers there. now, im not doing well understanding the circuit there, can anyone give me a heads up on it? i have matrix board here so i can make one im just not sure whats what on this part of the pdf.im hopeing thorsten will add something o this for me, it would have been nice to see a little bit of this circuit made up actually so i had some pictures to refer to.sorry if i am a pain guys, i am reading the circuits as you can see and im understanding what i can as i re-learn things again, but i dont want to mess this up so im asking for advice when i need it.thanks as always.heres the pic from the pdf.oh and where do i feed the 7-10v power into the core??thanks ssp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stryd_one Posted April 17, 2009 Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 had to keep stopping when my hands started shaking about. but with a little perseverence and concentration i managedWord man, I feel that pain. It is kinda satisfying to grit your teeth like "f*** you!" and whoop it's ass though. The finished product makes for some high quality payback :)Rock on!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nILS Posted April 17, 2009 Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 The contrast pot serves as a voltage divider which feeds the LCD with a contrast voltage somewhere in the 0V..5V range depending on the pot position.The luminance pot is basically part of a current limiting circuit that lets you adjust the amount of current the LCD backlight can pull.Assembled that kinda looks like what you see in the attachment.oh and where do i feed the 7-10v power into the core??See http://ucapps.de/mbhp_core.html or http://www.avishowtech.com/mbhp/mbhp_coreR4d.html:J1 - Connection to the power supply. Either the output of a 7V-10V transformer, or a wall adapter can be used. 500 mA is recommented, especially if a backlit display is used, but MIDIfilter and MIDImerger work also with ca. 100 mA. AC or DC doesn't matter, since the rectifier behind J1 converts to DC anyhow. Also the polarity has not to be taken into account. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLP Posted April 17, 2009 Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 had to keep stopping when my hands started shaking about.Do you know Fredl Fesl? Probably not. He's a bavarian comedian and he is suffering parkinson for some years now.He once told in a TV-Interview that he is using a modified orbital sander with some rubber instead of sandpaper on his arms before a concert.Because of that vibration, he says, he is able to play the guitar without his body shaking.Dunno if that could help in your case, but perhaps you might want to give it a try in case you have a orbital sander at hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssp Posted April 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 thanks again nils, yes i see what you mean now, sorry i thought it was an addon part that i would have to build. once again im a little deflated and down about this because before everything i would have seen and understood everything, and now its like im looking through a real dirty pane of glass, i can see things i just cant work them out. its a little depressing to be honest not being able to figure things out as easliy as before but im not giving in.thanks once again for pointing out the obvious to me.----------------------------------------------------|ok update, i have finished the core, however i havent soldered the two 10k potentiometres on the board simply because they are too small and will be out of the way for me to adjust as and when i may need to, so i have decided to replace these with a pair of alps single track, linear 9mm 10 verticle pots. you can find them here http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=2632980anyway i followed the info i had and the very good details on smashs website and the 3d pics helped me also, soldering was a little bit of a pain again today, found it more than difficult with the hands doing the jitterbug on times!! however the core is done and heres the pics as i went along, once again many thanks for the info on smash's site and the fact i managed to find my resistor calculator and use it . this one was a good soldering project! all i need to do now is power it up and test the voltages before i fit the pic.im just starting the lcd screen now and will update later. until then enjoy the pics of tonights work.first resistors in solder qualityall the parts on minus the potsfinished solder quality, a few flux spots to take off but they are nothing to worry about at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stryd_one Posted April 18, 2009 Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 Sorry SSP I missed your later posts, my bad!The trimpots should only need to be set once, to get your particular model of screen to look 'right', and you do so with a small philips head screwdriver, so it's safe to mount those parts in the hard-to-get-to place, no need to make them external :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nILS Posted April 18, 2009 Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 I think on picture #2 you captured a ghost ;) Looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssp Posted April 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2009 stryd_one, the reason for the mounted pots is because the lcd screen is going to be in a hinged case work so i can alter its angle up and down, bit like the screens on the akai mpc units.i have everything i need bar the pots and a few buttons, i have to go and buy a new psu as i think i threw it out the other day, my heads telling me that i did and that i thought it was a broken one i had, which it probably is what happened as the broken one is still on the shelf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssp Posted April 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 did the voltage checks tonight one the pic socket and ic2 sockets as stated in the info off ucapps and all test points came back with the required 5v accross them , so im pleased i got that bit right!!!----------------------------------|updateok well as promised here are two pictures of the faceplate assembly i have designed in solidworks for the complete unit, this will have a stripped down bcf and bcr 2000 embedded inside also along with the midi mon and shuttle controller. the plate is made out of 2mm sheet all holes ready for self clinch studs, i dont want to see any screws or bolts etc on the surface of the unit then its going to be powdercoated in a very fine metallic charcoal colour the same as used on the mackie units.after i have done this one i intend to build another unit that takes a core, two mf units, the mtc display two lcds and the illuminated buttons im using in this along with another shuttle unit.this is basically a test to see if i have got everything right in solidworks as i have made a load of pre defined templates to what i want.enjoy the pics! more to follow!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssp Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 last night i succumbed and soldered the small 10k pots onto the baord for now until my alps arrive and i then wired the lcd up. only to find nothing would display. after spending ages talking with nils and it was his first suggestion it came down to the psu i was using not being powerful enough.so with nils advice i loaded up mios studio, and then loaded up the midimon hex file and dumped it to the core unit, attatched the lcd (after fitting new psu) and bingo the display fired into life and worked!! now all i have to do are the two switches and the little resistor arry that goes with them and i just have to wait for my two large matrix boards to turn up for the mtc display to be built, then its finished apart from being cased up.heres the pics, enjoy!now the voltage regulator got a little hot so luckily i had a plasma display that i had stripped down out back, so i took one of the heatsinks off one of the regulators on that and with some thermal paste bolted it to the regulator, i do have some smaller ones which i will use today but for purpose that one was ok.i also have the stripped down behringer units ready also for the case work, all i have to do is take off the behringer micro switches and replace them with the new switches i have bought. and then test fit them to the front panel prototype i am having made out of some 2mm aluminium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nILS Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 In case other people run a into similar: 6V bad. 7-10V recommended ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssp Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 well my new matrix boards still hadnt arrived today so i got on with stripping the shuttle down, taking the alps dual rotary encoder off the board, fitting it to a new matrix board and doing the 8 pin connector.all was going well until two pins broke on the encoder but i was able to solder some wire onto them, im going to have to find a replacement or two now i think, im pretty sure someone on here has some for sale.anyway its all soldered up and the connector is on, i just have to trim down the board as i need now, will do that tomorrow with the dremel.heres a few pics to add to the progress, im going to change the dials for something else i think, i will see if i can get them done tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssp Posted April 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 nils i had a thought last night about this.could i put a basic gm5 usb midi interface in the case and take the midi in out from that to the core in/out so that instead of having a pair of midi cables and a usb cable and the psu cable in the back of the unit i just have the psu and then the usb cable? and then run them from the 9-10v psu?it would tidy things up for me so much and then only two holes required for the rear of the case work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nILS Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 What I would do is to power the gm5 module off the USB power and just use wires where you'd usually have the midi cables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssp Posted April 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2009 todays update:this morning my new matrix boards arrived from china, so i was able to get on with the mtc led display.i knew there was going to be a load of wiring to do so i just got stuck in to it. i got as far as i could today while i decide how im going to link them down to the 8 way 90 degree pins, im thinking using some stripboard with a set of pins on and then linking them down to the right angle dout connectors on the edge, however im not sure yet!!.anyway here you go todays work!there you go, if anyones interested the three little lights are triple led lights i have had for a while, they have clips on them so you can attatch them to whatever your working on, very handy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssp Posted May 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2009 well i think i have got it sorted now as to what i want to do with linking the ribbons from the mtc to the core via the 8 way cnx on the front of the board.can someone just double check this for me and make sure its right? i have a small reference pic and then the link for the large version thats easier to read. thanks.so you take pin 1 on the idc connector to the dot on the led display and then follow with relative letters afterwards. a=2 b=3 c=4 d=5 etc, then at the end there is another idc connector as you can see the three connectors on the edge of the coard in the pictures above, those connectors will then link to the ones on smash's dout board idc connectors via ribbon cables with 2x5 idc headers, reason of the 2x5 is i cant get 2x4 anywhere for some reason, so the last two holes are not connected to anything.reference picturelarger version of picture.http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp110/stored/LAYOUT1.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssp Posted May 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2009 do you think its possible for me to make a secondary board using say eagle or another board layout program and have a board made for the led routing? i know it would have to be a dual layer board by the looks of it, but do you think its a possible board? if it is i can then try it in eagle and get one made also get a better baord made for the leds as well.thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stryd_one Posted May 2, 2009 Report Share Posted May 2, 2009 Your wiring looks good, and yes you could certainly make a custom board for it... eagle might not let you make such a big board though, so I'm not sure how you feel about kicad? As for dual layer, you can probably make it single layer, and maybe use a few air wires if you want to etchh your own board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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