Amanita Posted September 12, 2010 Report Share Posted September 12, 2010 Hi Can anyone provide me with the LCD dimensions for the Sammich especially the mounting hole centres? I want to source a really cool LCD module and just want to make sure it will fit when the kit arrives. A part number for the standard display that Wilba provides would be ideal. I would email him direct but i'm guessing he has alot going on right now.... Cheers A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 I've started using these: http://www.sureelectronics.net/goods.php?id=1033 It's fairly standard pinout and dimensions. When people are requested to confirm their order for a batch, I suggest this one as an alternative: http://character-lcd-lcds.shopeio.com/inventory/details.asp?id=935&cat=Lcds&sub=Character%20Lcd You will need to check dimensions AND the header pinout AND the header position. i.e. I have bought one LCD off eBay that had the backlight pins 15 and 16 swapped. Also the Optrex STEP displays are awesome, but their header pinout has the backlight pins at the other end of the header, so 14 pins correctly align with the sammichSID base, but the backlight pins don't, so you need to do a bit of a fix. I can send you details if you plan to get one. Advice to everyone: let me check the LCD you plan to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amanita Posted September 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Thanks Wilba I was looking to use something similar to this. The pin outs seem to match and also the hole centres. A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormcaller Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 If that LCD is at 5v 260ma if I read the sheet right doesn't that mean it should be set up as a low power LCD on the jumpers? My order stated that I would be shipped a high power one and I am just at the stage of setting up the jumpers now so was asking on here as the LCD has "5V" written in large friendly letters on it. I thought feeding it the 12v for a high power LCD may not have been a good idea without asking first so I came on here and found this thread. Also, just to vent, I was outbid on the C64s I was bidding on... Oh well it might be a while longer before I get those sids :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormcaller Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 Tried it with JP4 both on and off - when on it was only for a very short time to see if I could get a response, but nothing. I have not tried 12v and won't do so until I get some confirmation as to what the correct settings are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormcaller Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 ...and the screen has just spontaneously started working for reasons I cannot fathom. Plugged my chips in sans sids which I don't have yet and it is booting fine. Screen is working with the low power jumper config. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 The negative green LCDs I sell are high-power. Set JBL to 12V and put shunt in JR4, set brightness pot to half-way and no more. That will keep the total current load low enough for a 12V AC 500mA power supply. Any higher and the input voltage will sag, the voltage regulators won't have high enough input voltage to regulate 9V and 5V, and the PIC won't boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormcaller Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 (edited) Thanks for that, just cranked it up to 12V and now looks better. Edited to add, screen stopped working again while I was moving sid chips around so I decided to resolder the entire thing a third time, now working again so must've been a really stubborn dry joint. Edited March 21, 2011 by Stormcaller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toneburst Posted December 14, 2011 Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 Are the LCDs you shipped with the last batch of SammichSID kits also high-powered, Wilba? I ask because I just completed my kit, and initially, left the jumper in the low-power position. The display was quite dim, so I followed the instructions in the Build Guide to use high-power mode. The display is much brighter now, even with the backlight brightness trimmer turned right down. However, as soon as I turned the device on after changing the jumpers, I noticed a slight burning smell. It wasn't strong, and there certainly wasn't any smoke or anything dramatic like that, but it was noticeable. Also, the power-handling part of the board got noticeably hotter than it had before. I know the two heatsinks and the holes in the case are there to handle that, but I just wondered if things are set as they should be. It still seems to be working OK. a|x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 Check that you are not supplying the sammichSID with too much voltage. What type of power supply are you using? What is the voltage on the "12V" (i.e. input) pins when there is no control surface plugged in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaosmoon Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 (edited) Hi, I just finished my sammichSID aswell. Its with the negative green LCD. Initially i had it set to low current on JBL and no shunt on JR4. The display was dim. After voltage checking and installing my 6581's (shunts on both JBP and horizontal on JP) i decided to move to the high power setting after re-reading the emails from WIlba stating the negative green was also high power. i'm using a regulated 2A, 12V non switched adapter which reads 12.15V. I found a post on the forum replied by niLS stating that within 3% of 12V should be ok. The display lit up nice and bright, with the pot set to under halfway, but then dimmed after 10 seconds. now all backlighting is gone. Fried? regards, Carlos Edited December 26, 2011 by chaosmoon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaosmoon Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 one thing to add is that my kit was missing 2 leds, so i finished it without soldering any of them(im going for orange anyway) i dont know if this could/should influence how much power gets to the LCD? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaosmoon Posted December 29, 2011 Report Share Posted December 29, 2011 leds are in and working. on the backlight jumper pins i'm getting 4.99V and 12.06V i found the links to these screens in another thread and can purchase a new one off ebay, but am curious why this one is fried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaosmoon Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 (edited) happy new year all. i replaced the BC337 which was conducting 1 direction between Collector and Emmiter. EDIT: (jumper duh) low power mode: On the LCD connector i'm measuring +4.96V between GND and B- and +4.96V between GND and B+ high power mode: +4.96V between GND and B- +12.02V between GND and B+ Is this correct? Edited January 1, 2012 by chaosmoon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilesjuk Posted January 8, 2012 Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 (edited) Hi, I'm planning my Sammwich build in advance of getting the kit. Would an OLED display work? they tend to be lower in power consumption and clearer than LCD. I've checked the dimensions and pinout and they match, but I wondered if there were any other considerations? This is the display: http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/20-x-2-OLED-Alphanumeric-Display-500174 EDIT: No matter, going for an MB-6582 instead now :) Edited January 11, 2012 by Gilesjuk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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