Suicide Sushi Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 (edited) Hello everyone! Happy New Year! :sorcerer: Okay, im almost there with my MB6582 build, and i can't seem to fit the frotnpanel to my control PCB. I ordered it from Schaeffer and i used the suggested layout file. I fitted the LED's first to the control PCB without problems. It all fitted! Then i fitted the small switches (and the pots but they don't seem to be a problem) and i can't seem to fit the front panel and the PCB because of the switches... Argh! I've read the very nice CS construction Photo guide, and i've been through Wilbas CS guide. Does anybody have any good ideas how to make the small switches fit? How to get them inside the holes in the front panel. Im so close! Please help... Thanks! HAPPY NEW YEAR. Take care with the fireworks and all! Jeppe / Suicide Sushi Edited December 31, 2010 by Suicide Sushi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
technobreath Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 I'm not quite sure I understand the problem... is the holes too small, or are the buttons not alligned properly? The obvious would be to drill larger holes if they are too small, or see if there is some way you could reallign the buttons...? This is rather impossible to give a good answer to without holding it in my hands myself or seing a picture of it... Maybe they cut the frontpanel wrong? U never know... But if the frontpanel doesn't fit, it doesn't fit, and you need to work on it - drill bigger holes, make sure everything allign up perfectly as it should be etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 Maybe you soldered the buttons with the wrong orientation (rotated by 90° - thats hard to do, but not impossible ;)) Jeppe: could you please attach a photo to give us a better impression about the issue? Best Regards, Thorsten. P.S.: happy new year to those who live in the GMT+10 timezone! :sorcerer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 (edited) yes, pictures please... and don´t forget to blame nILS ;-) did you use the suggested tactile switches with a head diameter of 3.0 mm? did you solder them one by one checking alignment every time, as suggested in the tut? if one is not inserted fully (need to apply quite some force) it may be the case, that it is not 90° perpendicular to the pcb and the button cap therefore blocks somewhere. PS: if the holes are too small for any reason it is easy to redrill them to larger holes or complain @fpe Edited December 31, 2010 by Hawkeye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nestle Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 (edited) yes, pictures please... and don´t forget to blame nILS ;-) did you use the suggested tactile switches with a head diameter of 3.0 mm? did you solder them one by one checking alignment every time, as suggested in the tut? if one is not inserted fully (need to apply quite some force) it may be the case, that it is not 90° perpendicular to the pcb and the button cap therefore blocks somewhere. PS: if the holes are too small for any reason it is easy to redrill them to larger holes or complain @fpe For me the CS gave some serious headache too. The reason was that when I glued the 10mm thread hexes one near the filter resonance encoder was 1/2 mm too much in the right. I after filing it for more than enough everything fitted perfectly. I think that that hex spacer is not that important - JBWeld was just too tight to remove it :D Roope Edited December 31, 2010 by Nestle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nestle Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 (edited) For me the CS gave some serious headache too. The reason was that when I glued the 10mm thread hexes one near the filter resonance encoder was 1/2 mm too much in the right. I after filing it for more than enough everything fitted perfectly. I think that that hex spacer is not that important - JBWeld was just too tight to remove it :D Roope If you follow the Hawkeye phototutorial this is easy problem to face, as you get yourself in such a "almost there" mood after all the leds etc - then after you solder encoders you don't test it until you try to fit the cs into the case. Then it is easier to slip to alcoholism than get back from "almost there, almost dancing "its finished dance"" -mood, back into the dirt - file in your hand :D Check the hexes ;) (I think I also had the encoder .1 mm from the pcb - I did press it down and cut the hex a bit. So check all the encoders too - some of them are really low tolerance - tight tight tight to the pcb) Roope Edited December 31, 2010 by Nestle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted January 1, 2011 Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 I solder the switches before the LEDs (or at least snap them into the PCB) so you know it will fit after soldering the LEDs... i.e. switches will be aligned with panel holes when you add the spacers to the panel etc. Did you not use the switches during the gluing of spacers? Sometimes one or more of the switch shafts aren't perfectly vertical so they will catch on the edge of the panel hole. Unlike round LEDs which due to the round tops will guide themselves into the holes, the switches are flat at top, making it trickier sometimes. When this happens, you might need to use something pointy like a small screwdriver to push the few that are catching into the holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicide Sushi Posted January 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 (edited) Thanks a bunch for the replys everyone. You are so nice and helpfull. yes, pictures please... and don´t forget to blame nILS ;-) Coming now :thumbsup: But it is quite hard to take pictures of the problem. But I tried. did you use the suggested tactile switches with a head diameter of 3.0 mm? Yes. did you solder them one by one checking alignment every time, as suggested in the tut? Nooo. Which is where it went wrong i guess. Maby i should unsolder the switches and resolder them one by one while checking alignment (mission impossible?). I just figured it all would fit because the tactile swithes fitted so tight to the PCB. And yes I was grapped by the "almost there" feeling. PS: if the holes are too small for any reason it is easy to redrill them to larger holes or complain @fpe FPE did an amazing job. I think i would rather buy a new CS PCB and parts than buying a new front panel or start drilling. Edited January 3, 2011 by Suicide Sushi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicide Sushi Posted January 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 Okay. It seems like I have bigger problems then my frontpanel fitting. :frantics: First of all my CS doesnt work at all. No reaction from the tactile switches. And no reaction from the pots. Do I have to fit the resistors for the LED's tom make the tactile switches and pots work? I installed the latest Midibox SID 2 software (the MB6582 hex file) which boots fine but the SIDS only make a continues sound. I installed an older version of Midibox SID (1.7 i think) by accident at first and the SID's sounded fine when i played som notes on the MIOS keyboard. When I installed the latest version of Midibox SID 2 I recieved an error "ERROR - Can't clone core 3". When i fitted PIC 3 I bended a leg and booted my MB6582 without one of the PIC's legs in the right position. I then refitted the PIC into it's right position. I know that 2 of the connection wires between the Base PCB andt the CS PCB are broken on my pics. But they were fine when I tried to make the CS work. They are a result of me trying to fit the CS PCB with the front panel. Maby I should start a new thread. :twitch: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magic-D Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 For the Pots and Switch problem... Did you attached the 2 wire JD9 to the CS ? greetz dM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicide Sushi Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 For the Pots and Switch problem... Did you attached the 2 wire JD9 to the CS ? greetz dM Yes I attached the wires. But I didn't attach the resistors for the LED's. Thank's. Suicide Sushi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicide Sushi Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 I have decided to drill some bigger holes for the tactile switches in the front panel. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 (edited) I like the color scheme of the box and the frontpanel... are you sure the tactile switches are the problem? Especially with those nice flat head LEDs it can be a little bit hard to fit them in their proper places... If you are positive about the tactile switches, you can desolder them one by one by using a vacuum pump and only quick heating up with the soldering iron and then sucking away the solder - smashs really good pcbs should be able to withstand that without solder pads coming off... Edited January 3, 2011 by Hawkeye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicide Sushi Posted January 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 I like the color scheme of the box and the frontpanel... are you sure the tactile switches are the problem? Especially with those nice flat head LEDs it can be a little bit hard to fit them in their proper places... If you are positive about the tactile switches, you can desolder them one by one by using a vacuum pump and only quick heating up with the soldering iron and then sucking away the solder - smashs really good pcbs should be able to withstand that without solder pads coming off... e Yeah. I'm quite satisfied with what Schaeffer did with my frontpanel. Im going for the lab test equipment look. :thumbsup: The front panel and the CS PCB fitted nicely before I soldered the tactile switches. I used the links you posted in your nice guide Hawkeye and i'm quite sure the switches are the right ones. I only used the parts you linked to. But i should have fitted one part at a time and then soldered it... Ufortunately I didn't. But I will need to think about how to solve this problem best. :logik: Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 (edited) desolder them, one by one and test if it fits after each one - it is not nice work and you´ve got to be a little bit careful, but it will work in the end :) - if you don´t care about the switches, you can also cut their legs from the upperside of the board and then use your soldering iron from the backside and the vaccum pump from the upperside to clean the holes one by one, sucking out the remaining legs - this would be nicer to the pcb and way faster, but both methods will work in the end. Edited January 4, 2011 by Hawkeye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicide Sushi Posted January 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 desolder them, one by one and test if it fits after each one - it is not nice work and you´ve got to be a little bit careful, but it will work in the end :) - if you don´t care about the switches, you can also cut their legs from the upperside of the board and then use your soldering iron from the backside and the vaccum pump from the upperside to clean the holes one by one, sucking out the remaining legs - this would be nicer to the pcb and way faster, but both methods will work in the end. Thanks Hawkeye! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicide Sushi Posted January 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 (edited) Okay I think that I've identified the problem. It seems that 2 of the spacers that I glued to the front panel were limiting some of the movement of the front panel. It needed at tad of free space to one side. The spacers were too close to the pots and I decided to remove them (the 2 spacers). It almost fits now, and I'm confident that I will solve this "challenge" with some patience. Thanks for the replys! Edited January 4, 2011 by Suicide Sushi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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