jaytee Posted November 14, 2016 Report Share Posted November 14, 2016 (edited) Making a big Mouser order for the MB-6582 parts I couldn't source from Tayda. I have a few questions about the BOM. - Is there anywhere to source the necessary rocker-style power switches? All I can find is a couple references to Wilba selling them from a larger batch. I used the photo on the old group buy wiki page to figure out what part it was, but can't find any place to purchase it. Is there another suitable part? Does anyone on the board have these? Should I just go with some other (probably panel-mount) switch and adjust the rear panel design as needed? I think I'm going to do that with the power jack anyway, since I'm gonna run it from a single 12V supply and want to use a standard jack instead of the 7-pin DIN jack. EDIT: I seem to have found a switch that matches. First of all, it looks like the switch that Wilba was supplying is the R8011L from Salem (caveat, this is my best guess based on the image on the group buy wiki page). As far as I can tell, this switch (E201J1AV2BE2 from C&K) seems to be a close match. Only difference I can find is that the rocker sticks out an extra fraction of a millimeter. Not cheap, unfortunately. I'll probably buy one and give it a shot unless anyone points out that I've missed some crucial detail that makes it incompatible. I'll report back whether it works or not. Hopefully this is a help to anyone else looking for this rare part. Actually, upon closer inspection, I think the switch that Wilba supplied was the R8017L from Salecom. Ever so slightly different. C&K lists a matching part in their datasheet (E201J1V5BE2 ), but it doesn't seem to be for sale anywhere. Back to the drawing board. - The feedback pots aren't on the BOM. I think they're supposed to be 500k dual-gang pots, right? Log or linear taper (I think log, right)? Can anyone suggest a matching pot/knob combo? I know that the pots probably aren't hard to find, but I feel totally inept at match knobs to pot shafts. - Speaking of the feedback pots, how useful do folks find them? I'm considering leaving them out entirely. Despite seeing successful installs from other folks, I worry about noise coming in on the audio-in pin, and about eventually blowing the SID filters, which I've heard the audio-in can do. I'm using 8580/6582 SIDs, if it makes any difference. - There's nothing in the BOM about securing the base PCB to the Pac-Tec case. Are the screws included with the PT-10 sufficient or are those only to close the case? I can't really tell from the PT-10 data sheet. - Can anyone give me a quick primer on crimp pins/female connectors for the headers on the base PCB? I promise I've googled this, but I must not be searching for the right things. It seems like a lot of DIY stuff assumes knowledge on what pieces and parts one needs to buy to assemble female connectors for headers, but this will be my first time not just soldering wires directly to the board in lieu of headers altogether (trying to do this right!). - Speaking of connectors, can anyone offer Mouser part numbers for the correct LCD connector. I have a better idea how to assemble this piece at least, thanks to the guide to MIDIbox display cables, but I just want to be sure I'm getting the right part; again, first time working with these types of connectors. -Any other parts that aren't on the BOM that I should pick up? Even just basic stuff that most folks would already have in their workshop. Only things I've come up with are shunts and a few machine-pin female headers (for SID capacitors and LED resistors). Sorry, I know this is a ton of questions about stuff that most folks here (and elsewhere in the DIY world) take for granted as simple matters. Just looking for a little guidance before I drop a bunch of money on parts. Better to ask these questions now than after parts arrive and I get the wrong stuff. As a post-script, let me just say that I do not recommend buying IC sockets from Tayda, or at the very least, not the 28-pin wide sockets (i.e. SID sockets). On two separate sockets, a pin came loose while placing it into the PCB and the wipers slid upward. Really poor quality. Edited November 15, 2016 by jaytee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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