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Modul Box NG V2


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I am currently thinking about a version 2 of my modulbox circuits




the objectives are:

Have the circuits manufactured by a professional (for example: https://jlcpcb.com/).
Have the fronts made by a professional.
-Be able to more easily share the circuits created with the community

The design rules remain the same:
circuits of 50 x 100 mm or 100 x 100 mm max

For the potentiometers I used: RK09L1140A2U ( https://www.mouser.fr/ProductDetail/Alps-Alpine/RK09L1140A2U?qs=6EGMNY9ZYDShe59Bf8g9AA%3D%3D )
paid 0.70 euros each at the time, they cost 2.80 euros today,
I'm thinking of replacing them with RK09D1130C1B ( https://www.mouser.fr/ProductDetail/688-RK09D1130C1B )
they are cheaper.

Do you recommend another model / brand?

I'm thinking of trying to make a footprint that accepts several kinds of potentiometers. it's possible ? does it already exist? (I work with kicad)

(for caps: https://www.mouser.fr/ProductDetail/Eagle-Plastic-Devices/450-4760?qs=J4wJDGtbthoFgTzq4MR8dw%3D%3D)


For the faders I used: RA6020F-10-15F2-B10K ( https://www.mouser.fr/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RA6020F-10-15F2-B10K?qs=6TczTpqoAMVgxoAgFDSJ8A%3D%3D )
It may not be the best choice.

Do you recommend another model / brand?


For the push buttons I used: MEC 3FTH9 https://www.reichelt.de/fr/fr/bouton-multimec-sans-clairage-connecteur-circuit-imprim--taster-3fth9-p156904.html?GROUPID= 7587&SHOW=1&OFFSET=16&&r=1

Do you recommend another model / brand?




It also remains to update the standard control surface:



I'm also thinking about possibly making a 4 x 2 sparkfun pads with RGB led ( https://www.sparkfun.com/products/7836 )

I still have a lot of work.

Anyone interested in this project? People who would like to help me or simply control my work?

or do you have any advice or suggestions?


Edited by ksir
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control hardware yes, if it is well documentadet on the wiki (shematic, board screenshot)

I too work with kicad since decades... and very sucessfull now with my actual projects - i was wondering but i planed it in kicad, and most off the boards where working 100% out off the Box (pick and place JLCPCB), ok i had a design fault on one, but that was solved with a wire-done.

actual projects





software: cant help, write my own Mios-based code, havent look into MidiboxNG - since it is a script, for me more easy to write it directly in C, (need to understand all, else i understand/learn nothing...) - so no help from this side


had good expierences with jlcpcb... also with the Pick and Place service

FrontPanels: maybe cheap CNC-Laser-Cutting from pcbway?



suggestions? Maybe use Eurorackformat, so it can be used outside of your box too?


suggestion, where usefull (wo sinnvoll) use J89 Serial Chain directly onboard (like encoder with ledring boards) to reduce wireing -  a simple button board dont needs that of course....

*** if you go the Serial Chain way, then buffer the Serial chain on each module to keep the digital Signal Quality intact (very necessery)

*** buffer: search for SN74LVC1G17DBVR in this shematic: http://wiki.midibox.org/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=phatline:blm16x16-shematic.pdf


maybe use pick and place ready smd technologoy like i did:

that makes it smaller, and less to solder, less to debug,  the plastic packages stays in china, more economical special when ordering more pcbs, by that of course a module should fit all the boxes (a exotic 1 man needs it module 10times fabricated is 9 too much...)

i think i dont have to say, that you should choose "Basic" Parts, and not "extendet parts" on JLCPCB, - off course on most modules you have at least one or two extendeet parts... but for example a DINX4 or DOUTX4 can be made with basic parts only... but when you also want to pick and place all the pin headers - these are extendet parts, how ever ... you may look on my last modules a bit



if you use long cables to your Displays + u use more displays then one -  on the modules, use a display driver (no more walking lines)



what else? if you make ground or other PCB-Planes, then setup kicad that it make 1-2mm space arround solderpoints - else the Soldering Man could make shorts, or electrocemical oxidations or solder flux-low-residance could make there some problems (after years), special when the Solderstop-Pain is scratched a bit...

... and so on...


PS i hate this wooble feeling off this LeMec Buttons (the last board you posted) - these Buttons are not good (for my taste)

I love to work with this ones: https://www.reichelt.de/at/de/eingabetaster-schaltspannung-24v-fuer-led-sw-dtl-2-sw-p7248.html?&trstct=pos_0&nbc=1

they are expensive, but they last decades (in use, and also if you order 300 off them and let them lye arround, after 15 years they still work)

They have good CLICK, like a mechanical Keyboard.

your leMec Buttons are like a mixture off Rubberdome and "i have to touch this buttons into one direction X=0 Y=0 else it want switch"


or you could use:


they are cheap but big... (aka take away a lot of Frontpanel space)


or maybe you use cherry switches or simulars.... they are all 1000% better then this leMecs... ( you notice i hate them)




Edited by Phatline
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