stryd_one

Well a DINx1 is a digital input module allowing 8 digital inputs, but the PCB's which you can buy from Mike and Smash are four of those in one board, otherwise referred to as a DINx4... Because almost all the time people use a DINx4 module, sometimes people abbreviate DINx4 to DIN, which causes some confusion, as it could imply DINx1 or DINx4.... or DINx2 or whatever... Or it could be referring to a single digital input, of which a DINx1 provides 8, and a DINx4 provides 32... All this is confusing...uhm.... I guess this is the most correct format: DINx4 = 4 DINx1 modules on one PCB DINx1 = 8 digital inputs provided by a shift register IC DIN = a single digital input Maybe TK says it best: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_din.html

Exactly... Sounds pretty much like a dead IC to me.... Provided that there's no custom code involved?

Actually, those links AC gave us pretty much have it covered, I think.... I'll tabulate the results of each scale after I get home tonight and paste them in here for you TK. Top linkage, AC! Those two went directly into my favourites :)

Both! Awesome!! I can already hear it in my head. That is going to r-o-c-k !! Look forward to your next addition to youtube ;) That's what I was thinking too, which is why I chose 'C' :) I've done some research on this but put it on hold until I had some other features done, so I'll trawl through some bookmarks and old theory books and come up with all the scales I can find... I'll be sure to include all the church, blues and jazz scales I can find.... Just a thought - should we setup a wiki page so that people can add their own scales to the table?

Question for you all: Driving 4 displays (emulating two) will require two pins of the PIC to drive the enable lines, in addition to the two which are already specified by the application. Does anyone prefer any pins in particular? It will be configurable of course, but I figure I might as well pick the pins that suit everyone best :)

Well shut my mouth, I got it wrong. Apparently they can do colour PLEDs... But Blue turned out to be a major hurdle and couldn't be done without of course. Check these goodies: http://www.oled-display.net/companies.htm http://www.cdtltd.co.uk/technology/36.asp

Heh, I just did an edit.... Well they're a very similar technology, so they get grouped together... basically they just spray the polymer or organic compound on the screen, and the guts of it fires off power that causes them to electroluminesce (emit light). The OLEDs can do colour too, so they're more prevalent in graphical form. You can get monochrome Graphical PLEDs though, check out onestopdisplays, down the bottom.

Programming-wise, you'll be fine :) I think maybe you're not familiar with how the banks work.... If you've got 16 encoders, physically, and 4 banks of them, it works like 64 knobs. The only different thing is that you have to select the bank. So let's say you're tweaking track 2, that might be the 2nd row of 8 encoders, set to bank 1. Now you want to hit track 7, which would be the first row of encoders in bank 4. You can use the buttons to select which bank/track you're editing, so you just hit the button, tweak track 7, then hit the button, tweak track 9, etc etc etc. From the ucapps page: So as you can see, you won't have to stop and re-record anything :) You could get even closer to your ultimate idea of 16x16 too, by having two rows of 16 encoders in banks....but 32...you might as well do 64 hehehe OMG guys, kikker has 5 hands ;D What you'd actually do, is send the snare to the reverb and the reverb to the phaser at the same time, then the phaser to the delay and the hihat to the delay at the same time, and then the delay back to the phaser (or something similar). Note, only two things at once - one for each hand :) All you have to do, to save soldering and paying for an extra 48 knobs (keep in mind all aspects - it's not just the encoder, it's knobs, it's facepanel size and complexity, it's DIN modules, etc etc. Think in the hundreds.) is tap a button inbetween those movements, to select the bank. Heck, you can cut code, clearly you have a specific requirement, why not do some wicked customisations (which aren't that hard thanks to meta events).... You could get the app to use one single encoder, to send multiple messages - so you could have a single knob alter ALL of those routings in one twist... And of course you keep at least 64 virtual pots for individual changes. That way you get even more control than 64 knobs, it's like growing extra hands, but you spend half the dough. Think outside the square bro :) I mean, it's not my time and money being spent unnecessarily, you can do whatever you want and it doesn't bother me ... But you don't need 64 pots to do what you're talking about. I dunno, maybe you just want an ubercool big ass flashy box with heaps of knobs on it. Nothin wrong with that, I gear-lust as much as anyone!

Yeh those livecoder dudes are kinda berzerk ;D If you're into it, check these out, a couple of my favourites.... http://www.pawfal.org/ (a terrible website, but give it some time and surf around, very interesting - if you only look at one page, check this one: http://www.pawfal.org/index.php?page=PawfalProjects) and http://www.nongnu.org/om-synth/ OM is very cool, as is TiSM http://tism.sourceforge.net/screenshots.html

I wonder, do you have any programming experience? It might come in handy :) Just a quick thing... I'm so finnicky, but... They're PLEDs not OLEDs :P P= Polymer, O= Organic. PLEDs are usually Character, OLEDs are usually graphical... don't know why? *stryd_one goes off to do some reading* Edit: OLEDs do colour too, PLEDs don't, it seems. There ya go. As for the unavailability of PLEDs > 2x20, you can run more than one screen, or use GLCDs.... Or look at the screen in fruityloops ;) I understand you want to use x amount of controllers but why all 64 at once?

Does this mean you're volunteering to code it? ;)

Do we maybe need a guide on how to check for bad solder joints and shorts?

And that's exactly what I was.... I didn't order them for my midibox, but another project... Their loss ::)

Nah spectra were lame about samples. They handed out a few, but quickly cut back when we hit hem too hard :( Only a handful of the dozens of people around here actually got the sample they asked for. Count me in for some XY/ribbon/pot goodies though....

Before you go down that road, something maybe worth consideration - have you heard anyone else complain about them? No? Maybe it's not the encoders or MIOS, maybe there's something wrong with your box... It sure sounds like it.

I second that, option C sounds perfect.

That's right :) Well... That's the theory anyway hehehe

Geegle

You can have encoders without led rings... The value is shown on the LCD screen. 64 leds can be had for a few bucks, but that's a lot of soldering..... Have a look at the MB64e though, that's the middle road - encoders with LED-rings, organised in banks to save parts, space and soldering :)

...And that was some more wise words from c0nsumer :)

Kinda sorta... But the important part, is the other side of that coin.... Digital circuitry is not "immune" to noise - however it is good at "ignoring" noise, provided that the noise is delivered in small enough amounts. Give it enough noise, and you'll have major problems.... Noise in an analog circuit means that the sound might be fuzzy (or all kinds of artifacts)... Noise in a digital circuit means that the system won't be able to tell 0's fom 1's any more. That's bad (duh). But you'd have a very hard time making a PSU that noisey. The main reason for keeping the digital section of the PSU separate from the analog, is crosstalk. You don't want 100010011100101001000101 leaking into your analog audio, because it will sound fuzzy and hissy and scratchy and yuk. I'm at work eating lunch right now, so let me know if you want the extended version of that, and I'll write it when I get home.

Hiya nacho, You should definitely use the search functions of the forum and wiki. This is a complicated subject, so it will take some time, and especially some electronics and programming skills... But there are many answers already, and lots of help here if you need it :) a) I don't understand this question.... Aren't you trying to turn your organ into the controller? b) Search for scanning matrix :)

Just for the newbies: You definitely don't need all this stuff for a midibox :) This list is more of a general set of handy parts to have around... They're actually more related to synth DIY than MIDIBox, in most cases. You won't need any of these extra parts unless you are doing experiments and designing and building stuff, or planning a world takeover ;) For carsten: We've gone off-topic and hijacked this thread, sorry dude! Is there anything else you needed to know? For everyone else: This is a good list, keep em coming! :)

Woo!!! ;D I'm sure we all learned a lot - I know I did! :)

So is it still like before? It works but loads incorrect values?