pay_c

Absolutely! But it doesn't mind me so much: Gonna change that audio comp to WinXP. Doesn't crash so often... :P ;)

The only next good Sample Sender I know is TI: www.ti.com All 74HCxxx and various other ICs (like 78xx, 79xx, 4051 (but the 74HC one!) and a few other ones). Value you can save for a single Midibox: 5-20 Euros (appr.). Not to much, but its worth it!

Cause its likely to be implemented in the next release. ;D And cause its still be some time until its finished (getting into the depths of MIOS takes its time... ;)).

-> Email :)

OK, I'm on it. Check your email for more. :D

Doesn't the link function come up after MIOS booted (so after I'm able to play in a new version of MIOS)? Doesn't matter to much, here the updates: - Shielded even more, the SID modules are now WRAPPED in grounded alu-paper (Seperating *completely* all DIN/DOUT/MIDI signals from SID/analog signals) - Uploaded MIOS 1.4 on all PICs ARGH!!! Still the same prob (a *lttle* improvement perhaps)! On all 4 SIDs!! I just dont get it! After some time the SID is set to one patch it completely changes it! Maybe I should build it up on a board again, just to be able to check everything (that stuff is really compact now!!). AAAAARRRRGH!!! Can't believe I'm finished and I'm not finished at the same time...

Also a possible solution: Try the other serial connector on your PC (if you have two), JDM seems to work only with the first one.

OK, here the latest: No (not one!) random MIDI messages with either MB64E and SID1.5b. Everything fine there! I uploaded MIOS 1.4 on the main core. It *seems* to run correct now (I just tested it short time). Big long time test comes tonight (if the SID 1 works fine and the others dont, I know whats up). How the heck that (if...) ?? ?? ?? Earlier I also improved the shielding a bit (shielded all DINs/DOUTs and the CS from the rest), but that didn't change to much. So, I'll have a look again tonight... /edit: Why not uploading MIOS 1.4 on all Slaves, too? Cause I dont have the optocouplers stuffed there and so I'll have to put all those chips out and program them seperately... ;D lazy me...

Cool, thnx!

Hey! General question: Is it possible to use other LCDs than thought to? I used a 16x4 on my 16F MB64 and now with the port to MIOS (18F) I'm just using two of those four lines... Is it somehow possible to redesign the Display? Also in other apps?

OK, I'll check that. In the meantime: Could it have to do something with the fact that I'm still on MIOS 1.3? Using SID 1.5b...

Yepp, they work great! Every single filter line now correct on all SIDs (I checked it even in Wavelab). Really nice now! btw: Those 8580 can vary from chip to chip veeery far! I got 5 and now three of them are sounding great and one is like... ... just OK (the filtering sounds broken...) and the other one is just broken (not one beep). They were all 8580R5 !! Suggestion: Putting those Styroflex in the parts list? So, my SID is finished! Pics will follow in January!! Only Prb: I'm getting some random sounds (see testing/TS forum). But thats something else... :-/ Happy Xmas!!

Problem: I'm getting random sound changes in my 4xSID. Meaning: E.g. random transposes, volume drops, changing osc (to noise or so), broken notes and so on and so on. It's even so far that I can do "random editing" by switching back to one patch over and over and never getting the same result. Anyone had that problem? Shielding?? Shield what??? I'm getting no random MIDI events (MIDI LEDs dont light up). Sound's awesome, but those random events are ruining it all. :-/ :'(

extraterrestric intelligence ... ... ::)

:o Ich muss den endlich fertig kriegen!!! Aber alle Bsple sind ja mit Delay angefettet worden, richtig? Für das Thema hätt ich evtl was: Eine seeehr simple Delay-Schaltung (PCB und alles auch schon fertig). Läuft auf neun Volt. Evtl sogar über nen AOUT schön ansteuerbar... wäre doch ein ganz nettes Addon, oder? TK? Hier die seeehr geile Page dazu (schon a weng veraltet, aber alles *puranaloge* Effekte - türlich bis auf Chorus/Delay usw...): http://www.tonepad.com

water

How to connect the USB module is stated very good on the UCApps page. (Those five pics there). So: If you make a direct link to the Midibox (over the MBLink) you mustn´t (!) stuff the optocouplers (baaad short circuit) I think. If you just use the normal INs and OUTs use those optocouplers (preferred solution due to maximum flexibility). Also hope I understood that question right... greets

Veeeery nice! Really want to build in that blue/white LCD? They´re so damn expensive but so damn coool!!

First: Yes, 500 mA per USB is correct. Although I wouldn´t push that to the limit. Perhaps a USB or normal solution would be cool (just dont use both at once). That way you have maximum flexibility. For the current question: The MOST (!!) of the current is drawn by the backlight of the LCD (appr. 200-500 mA). So if you cut down that (to lets say 100 mA) you´re on a veeery low current side (in the whole 200-300 mA with not to much LEDs lit up). Also consider low current LEDs. They need 3mA (instead of 20 mA) to light up. You just have to put another resistor in there (appr. 1k - 1,6k instead of 220 Ohm). Hope I could help. Greets!

Just to get the right point: I´m also getting my hands faaaaar away from that HCl stuff. Just wanted to mention this as the fastest way of etching. If you use this technique you must also have a wide opened window (Hydrogen comes out of there! So dont smoke! :) ). For the other stuff always wear protective stuff (I now have some white points on my jeans cause I have not - now thats my etching jeans ;) ). -ALWAYS- You dont want to get that stuff in your eyes.

I´m looking forward also VERY !! I have the Formant Pro at home (built it two years ago). The MSS 2000. It´s a very big analog modular synthesizer and several AOUTs would be something like patch-saving that stuff. @TK: If interested google for the MSS 2000 (very good book about that baby).

Lass mich raten: Diese hintergrundbeleuchteten Knöpfe habens dir auch angetan, richtig? Suchen schon viele nach einer guten Möglichkeit, die gut hinzubekommen. Eine Möglichkeit: Diese durchsichtigen, selbstklebenden *schlagmichtotwiedieheißen* Dinger, die man unten auf Glasscheiben draufpappt, damit sie nicht verkratzen. Gibts in jedem OBI. Sind ca. 12 mm Durchmesser und 3,5 mm dick, also relativ ideal für ne Alu Frontplatte. Wenn ich mit meiner Vermutung *vooollends* daneben lag, nix für ungut.

The absolute fastest way of etching is using HCl acid plus a little H2O2. Though its a reaaally dangerous way to edge (HCl !) it´s dammit fast. They use that stuff in professional edging facilities.

At laaaast: It´s working. :) I had to install the drivers on an old Win98 Comp (the WinXP one always had probs with the driver "Deinstallation routine incorrect" or similar). But: Then it didn´t work there (no idea why). Back on the WinXP comp and voila: It worked. So: I had to install the firmware on Win 98 to get it running on WinXP. Just for the records and for those guys, who didn´t get it running up to now. Greets

wEiRd