pay_c

Lower the rate youre sending the sysex. The standard value is (I think) 400 bytes/second, which is a little to much for MIOS 1.4 (will be better with MIOS 1.5 as it will react a little faster I think). I had good experiences with values around 250 bytes / second.

So my idea wouldn´t require any programming. It´s just a button assignment thing (those META Events are doing all the job). Perhaps a workaround for the hitting the button 7 times: You can also use two other META events: One for entering the BS Menu and one for entering the display menu. This way you just hit the BS Menu button and hit the button of the desired channel (those buttons 1-16 then become Bank Selection buttons as long as you are in the menu). Then you can either stay there (for changing the channels faster) and change your stuff or change back to the display with the other button. That would do the job quite well, wouldn´t it? Second question: Yes, the whole transport bar can be assigned to buttons, but I would rather recommend the keyboard: Cubase already assigned certain keys to the transport bar (and many other useful things). This way you can work damn fast. E.G. the numpad is assigned following way: Enter is Play, 0 is go to 00.00.00, / is Loop (I think) and so on. I did it this way (cause nobody can remember all those keys): Just write the Cubase shortcuts directly on your keyboard and put a light layer of transparent color over it (mate!!) to conserve it. Perhaps I could post a picture of that keyboard to show what I mean. I think it´s dammit useful, all important stuff is a fingertip away (Mixers, Metronom, Transport, VST Stuff, different Cursors and so on).

;D Jau, Zustimmung. Evtl auch ne Möglichkeit (werd ich mal probieren): Mikrofonverbinder (zum Verschrauben!) z.B. M 604 + B 604 (www.reichelt.de) oder XLRs: XLR 4 EB + XLR 4 ST (sind halt nur a weng groß & teurer) Wegen den Mikroverbinbern: die müsste man halt nur hinten noch irgendwie zumachen (und evtl ansägen). Wie schon gesagt: Für die MB64Seq werd ichs mal probieren. :D

Perhaps also a possibility (which works nearly like yours): Use the meta events of the MB64 for switching the bank up/down with two buttons. When you make those buttons the Bank Switch buttons for all your presets, you can easily make 12 pots (or encoders) for every channel, just switch the channels through by switching through the banks.

::) Boah, auch nich schlecht Arbeit. Hmmm... wie wärs denn mit nem DIN Stecker? ;D *G* Weißt schon, 128 Anschlüsse von denen man dann 4 benutzt. Oder noch besser so einen: http://www.reichelt.de/ und dann nach FL-A+B 308 suchen. ;)

Question: What encs did you use, TK? Where to order them?

Stupid question: Are these motorfaders? ;D

Guter Post. Da sieht mans nämlich: Die PS Memories dürften ziemlich schwer MBHP kompatibel gemacht werden, weil: - Clock wird benötigt (ist bei IIC ja nicht der Fall) - 3,5 und 7 Volt werden benötigt (nojo, über Zener Dioden noch zu machen) - einzelne CMD und DAT lines! Hat nüx mit IIC zu tun... - tjo... und was ist ACK und SEL? ... Also weiß wirklich nicht ob sich der Aufwand lohnt. So ein BS kostet uns ja im Moment lediglich 5 Eu das Stück (bzw. als Sample gar nix). Und die 32 Kb auf denen sind ja für unsere Zwecke im Moment mehr als nur ausreichend (hast du bei deiner MB64 schon mal versucht 8 Banksticks vollzubekommen? 8 Banksticks = 1 Mbit wie auf der Memorycard der PS) Minimum wäre eine ähnliche Schaltung wie auf deinem Link angegeben notwendig. Und das kostet türlich gleich mal wieder nen PIC usw... Weiß nich weiß nich. Probieren kann mans ja mal, aber lohnen? ...

For that bridge recitifer: That "little" one you mentioned is to big, yes (100WAC!!). I would stick to those 1n4001 diodes. Much less money and absolutely enough.

Deswegen kommen die ja auch immer hinten hin. ;D Nö, hast eigentlich schon recht, könnte man sich mal was überlegen. Aber wegen nem Bankstick ne gebrauchte PS zu kaufen ist schon sehr heftig... aber halt mal was überlegen. *WechselvonhirnfreiPhaseinNachdenkPhase* Der Speicher von der PS wird ohne größeren Aufwand kaum auf die MB rübergebracht werden können. Hast du dir mal die Anzahl an Pins vom IC angeschaut bei der PS? Das ist definitiv kein IIC Bus... und damit nicht so einfach rüberzubringen (bring die Sony Leut mal dazu dir die Schaltpläne zu überlassen...). ::)

First of all: THNX ALOT! ;D BTW: The background of the third pic is my analoge modular synthi (Formant Pro) - which I am *veeery* proud of... 8) - it was my very first DIY project! It´s a little tricky (I´ll perhaps write a tutorial about that): I mainly use plastic plates (3mm) and drill that stuff. Then I amke my design as a normal pic and print it on photo paper (not to glossy anyhow). To conserve it, I put a transparent color layer over it (here the mate one, the glossy one is on my MB64 - the mate one makes the black a little lighter but it´s more convenient for the eyes). I put two sided glue band (how the hell is the english word for that ?!?) on the non-printed side (mainly the edges and the places where many holes will be). Putting it on the plastic. Square holes (LCD) are then just cut out with an scalpel (from the plastic side to keep the plastic unscratched). Round holes are (hold tight!) cut out from the paper side with a new (!!) wood driller drilling the wrong way (!!) at a very high speed. You have to be veeeery desperate with that (one error and the whole thing looks shitty) but the paper gets cut very nicely that way. For the last touch I get eddings in the colors the case is (red & black this time) and paint the edges with it, so no white paper is anywhere (especially the LED holes need that). I know: It´s a bit of work & practice, but this way you can make *ANY* frontplate design you would like to have (put a nice girly there, if you like to). @arumblack: Not up to now... it looks cool, but up to now I´m having little problems (the master SID changes the sound randomly after a few mins). It´s not a big one, but it´s nerving. The sound itself is awesome and quite hell of a good partner for the virus! :D @LO: DAMMIT you dont know how right you are! Phew!!! A few centimeters less and ... @Wilba: Thnx! Yeah, the details are cool. Three things which are not coming out to good on the photos: Every section (LFO ENV and so on) is printed in the background in very big fonts (check the ENV section - there you see it). Second the envelopes are painted drectly behind the encs (perhaps you can see a blink of it on the third photo LFO section). Third (but you can see that) the waveforms are painted as waveforms! Not writing it out! I like to see that stuff as I hear it! ;) If you want to, I can send you the original pics (theyre way bigger) or put them on the portal so you can zoom in. Greets, beats & peace!! /modify: @wilba again: Oooops, forgot: On the far left: The switch is a three way one for changing the Bankstick from Internal (top position), none (middle) and External (down there). Just to have something like a preset bank inside there and some user banks in those D-SUB Connectors. Those two LEDs are just MIDI In and Out ones. And those two pots are for the LCD (contrast and backlight brightness - so if you change the angle of view to the LCD you can easily adapt it). Greets again!

First of all: THNX ALOT! ;D BTW: The background of the third pic is my analoge modular synthi (Formant Pro) - which I am *veeery* proud of... 8) - it was my very first DIY project! It´s a little tricky (I´ll perhaps write a tutorial about that): I mainly use plastic plates (3mm) and drill that stuff. Then I amke my design as a normal pic and print it on photo paper (not to glossy anyhow). To conserve it, I put a transparent color layer over it (here the mate one, the glossy one is on my MB64 - the mate one makes the black a little lighter but it´s more convenient for the eyes). I put two sided glue band (how the hell is the english word for that ?!?) on the non-printed side (mainly the edges and the places where many holes will be). Putting it on the plastic. Square holes (LCD) are then just cut out with an scalpel (from the plastic side to keep the plastic unscratched). Round holes are (hold tight!) cut out from the paper side with a new (!!) wood driller drilling the wrong way (!!) at a very high speed. You have to be veeeery desperate with that (one error and the whole thing looks shitty) but the paper gets cut very nicely that way. For the last touch I get eddings in the colors the case is (red & black this time) and paint the edges with it, so no white paper is anywhere (especially the LED holes need that). I know: It´s a bit of work & practice, but this way you can make *ANY* frontplate design you would like to have (put a nice girly there, if you like to). @arumblack: Not up to now... it looks cool, but up to now I´m having little problems (the master SID changes the sound randomly after a few mins). It´s not a big one, but it´s nerving. The sound itself is awesome and quite hell of a good partner for the virus! :D @LO: DAMMIT you dont know how right you are! Phew!!! A few centimeters less and ... @Wilba: Thnx! Yeah, the details are cool. Three things which are not coming out to good on the photos: Every section (LFO ENV and so on) is printed in the background in very big fonts (check the ENV section - there you see it). Second the envelopes are painted drectly behind the encs (perhaps you can see a blink of it on the third photo LFO section). Third (but you can see that) the waveforms are painted as waveforms! Not writing it out! I like to see that stuff as I hear it! ;) If you want to, I can send you the original pics (theyre way bigger) or put them on the portal so you can zoom in. Greets, beats & peace!! /modify: @wilba again: Oooops, forgot: On the far left: The switch is a three way one for changing the Bankstick from Internal (top position), none (middle) and External (down there). Just to have something like a preset bank inside there and some user banks in those D-SUB Connectors. Those two LEDs are just MIDI In and Out ones. And those two pots are for the LCD (contrast and backlight brightness - so if you change the angle of view to the LCD you can easily adapt it). Greets again!

Yeah, I´m on it. I will definitely make it 19" rack compatible (like all my designs up to now - it´s so damn practical), but I´m still not sure, which buttons I´ll use. For a first step: You could move the MODE triggers in the middle of those two LCDs (right between Button 8 & 9). Then move those free assignables to the left side (or other ones). Should make up some room for 19" stuff...

Rewire 2.0

Yepp, thats some point... you go through those diodes (the bridge recitifer) and so loose 0,7V. That *could* be a prob. Just get the power plug out of there once and try it with the power plug hanging in the air. What I mean by grounding the frontplate seperately is just that you put an additional grounding cable to the frontplate. Before you do that you could also measure the resistance and the voltage between the frontplate and the ground of your core (if its a resitance below ~0,5 Ohm and voltage about 0V its all OK already). *pressingthumbs*

Yepp, thats some point... you go through those diodes (the bridge recitifer) and so loose 0,7V. That *could* be a prob. Just get the power plug out of there once and try it with the power plug hanging in the air. What I mean by grounding the frontplate seperately is just that you put an additional grounding cable to the frontplate. Before you do that you could also measure the resistance and the voltage between the frontplate and the ground of your core (if its a resitance below ~0,5 Ohm and voltage about 0V its all OK already). *pressingthumbs*

Do you have a metal frontplate? If yes, ground it (seperately from the box!). Metal Frontplates are more or less antennas

Do you have a metal frontplate? If yes, ground it (seperately from the box!). Metal Frontplates are more or less antennas

Oooooh my oh my oh my... if it´s even getting better still now, I´ll loose my mind! That will be some encoder flood ordering from our side again!! For that groove again: I already thought about something like that earlier. My idea was a random function added to the MIDI Clock (or subtracted). Since the PIC doesn´t support random values (naturally), you would have to produce it (which isn´t any problem - just take the noise of a transistor e.g., amplify it and bring it in on an AIN of the core). Just an idea... Random grooving! I could imagine that would bring alot of natural feeling into some sequencer... what do you think?

Soldering is just a question of practice again, I think. My setup: 60W iron (for all!). Doesn´t matter to much whether 15 or 60 W because they´re all temperature controlled (they all won´t go beyond a certain temp). The 60W ones just heat up faster (and so allow to melt down big amounts of soldering iron, too). You can work very fast with those, although you can overheat some components if you´re on there for more than about 5 seconds or so. 1mm soldering iron and 0,5 mm soldering iron. If you use very thin stuff, you need very much of it (I mean you have to put a very good length of that stuff there). With the bigger s.i. it´s a little more relaxed and again you can work faster. Again: Just a question what you´re used to and what you want to solder (I certainly don´t use 2mm s.i. for SMD soldering). Practice practice practice. Just a little hint for the beginning (so you don´t overheat anything): If you solder caps/transistors/diodes or something else which is easily overheated, just solder one pin at a time. Don´t go to the second/third pin next. Just do some other pin next and come back later. Greets & good soldering !! :D

Soldering is just a question of practice again, I think. My setup: 60W iron (for all!). Doesn´t matter to much whether 15 or 60 W because they´re all temperature controlled (they all won´t go beyond a certain temp). The 60W ones just heat up faster (and so allow to melt down big amounts of soldering iron, too). You can work very fast with those, although you can overheat some components if you´re on there for more than about 5 seconds or so. 1mm soldering iron and 0,5 mm soldering iron. If you use very thin stuff, you need very much of it (I mean you have to put a very good length of that stuff there). With the bigger s.i. it´s a little more relaxed and again you can work faster. Again: Just a question what you´re used to and what you want to solder (I certainly don´t use 2mm s.i. for SMD soldering). Practice practice practice. Just a little hint for the beginning (so you don´t overheat anything): If you solder caps/transistors/diodes or something else which is easily overheated, just solder one pin at a time. Don´t go to the second/third pin next. Just do some other pin next and come back later. Greets & good soldering !! :D

OK, got the point ( I hope ... ...). Questions & Suggestions: - Will there be octave up/down buttons (the free assignable ones e.g.)? We talked about that in our emails. Would be cool I think (going the whole range of about 5 octaves up and down with that enc isn´t so much fun) - The Reset button should react after two seconds (like the old snapshot did). This way you wont delete the track accidentaly (and afterwards bite your own ass)... *if* you had´nt already thought of that. ;) Would be cool, this way, this button is freed up for another function if its just pressed - Idea: What´s with some "Morphing Fun" in this box, too? E.g. just morphing the velocities and CC Values? (Morphing Notes & CC# doesn´t make to much sense, I think) I think that would be ... just ... ... cool again. ;D Greets! ;D *lookingforwardforthisbaby* *cantwaituntilmytestsareoveragain*

Uuuups. Normalerweise glaub ich müssten die frei bleiben, bin mir aber nicht 100% sicher. Mal probieren...

Why buy stuff if you can make it even better with less money?? Can´t believe what I´m seeing here every now and then. Don´t wanna know where this whole page will be in five years! We´ll need someone for writing instruction manuals for those babies!!! TK: First gotta try to get everything into my brain. Perhaps then I can come up with some ideas. You´re definitely to fast... ;D :o :o :o

:o :o :o A bug in MIOS ?? !! ?? How? Where? When? ... eeeeehm ... What? Can't believe that... :o Somehow I'm on the one side proud of that, on the other side I'm feeling guilty... ::) ( ;) )