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Thats certainly MIOS: If MIOS is installed it displays "ready" in the LCD and is now waiting for the application to come. This is normal. Now just send the code into the Midi In (Sysex code over Midi!) and your app. is installed and should come up. btw: The installation procedure is stated very clearly on the page (ucapps - howtos). Just look up there again and everything should be clear. Greets :)

I already wrote something about that, here I go once again: Â ;D NiMH Accus: 9V ~150mAh 4x (or 6x) AAAs ~700mAh 4x (or 6x) AAs ~2000mAh A normal MB64 (with all backlight and stuff) uses about 200 - 500 mA (the MOST goes into the Backlight). You just have to divide the mAh through your current and know how long your Box will be on. So with a 9V Accu it's gonna be even less than an hour! So: Current saving! Cut off the backlight! This saves a LOT! Second: Use low current LEDs (they just need 3mA to light up) - you got to change the values of the resistors on the DOUT (appr. 1k - 1,6k instead of 220)!! That way you can go down to about 100 mA current or even less (very dependable on the number of lighted LEDs)! That makes about: 9V: 1,5h, AAAs: 7h, AAs: 20h (!!!) To go even higher, just put 4x or 6x batteries in row (6V,9V) and parallel to those again 4x or 6x batteries - doubled mAh. (e.g.: 2 times 4x AAAs in parallel makes 6V at 1400 mAh) Greets! Â :) P.S.: Perhaps something for the FAQ?

Mit was fuer einer Spannung versorgst du? Sprich: Was liegt am 7805 an (wie heiss wird er?)? Sollten nicht mehr als 9 Volt sein... bei einem Strom von ca. 500 mA. Und pack nen Kuehlkoerper auf den 7805 drauff! Wie schauts mit Masseabschirmung aus? Hast du eine Alufrontplatte? Uuuund: Versorgst du evtl. direkt vom Netz (also Trafo irgendwo in der Naehe) oder per Netzteil? Achja, noch was: Wenn der Poti in Ordnung ist, *muesste* die anliegende Spannung fast schon schwanken, evtl mitm Oszi nochmal nachgucken! Hoffe ich kann helfen. :D

Woooooohaaa! LO, youre just one of the best DIYers here. Full R E S P E C T. Seems like you have much time and money. ;) Really only cool stuff coming out of your corner! Question on that extension port: Does that mean, that you only connect that baby to your MBMF and thats it or for what is it? That overlay is made again by that copy shop you mentioned?

Ground the Pots and the problem is solved (you also can ground the Pins of the jumper which go to the Core - just not the 5V one clearly). Normally you dont see if the buttons are pressed or not. And also a possible problem is that the PIC is just stuffed up with working up the incoming data drom the AIN.

Yes right up to now. But you definitely should use at least a LCD, so you can see what youre doing. Having all stuff in the head can be pretty hard... Also you can see the changed values on the LCD.

Kein Prob, ist ziemlich relativ. :)

If you'll use accus: Normal stuff (LCD&Core&stuff) about 30 mA (no backlight), LEDs (2) about 10-20 if resistance a little higher. That makes about 50 mA (through both the 7805 and the boards - the 7805 will just cut off the upper 4 Volts). 9 Volt battery (NiMH): 150 mAh - about three hours playtime..... ..... a little to less, isn't it? I would stick to the 4 battery idea. AAAs: about 700 mAh (14 hours!), AAs: about 2000 mAh (40 hours !!!). For the LEDs: There are minimal current LEDs available! They only use up 3 mA (you just have to go up with the appropiate resistance). The 2V thing could be a problem for the LEDs (it's at the border of them lighting up - but they should come up anyhow). Greets!

Correct me, if I'm wrong, but doesn't that mean that we now only need the MBLC from now on? The MC isn't needed anymore, right?

Argh! To easy to get it! Cable tie... will remember that next time! ;D Thnx arum!

Bescheid geben! ;D

1000 uF langt schon, vor allem beim 4x SID. Sobald du eine Spannungsversorgung für alle 4 SID Module hast, schaltest du die Elkos ja parallel und somit sind die 1000 uF absolut ausreichend (vor allem bei den geringen Strömen). 2200 uF würde ich verwenden, wenn du nur einen Single-SID bauen willst.

"Kabelbinder": That thing which is used to put a huge amount of cables together. Plastic string where you put the one end into the other, zip it up and thats it.... dammmmn, I really dont know any english word... "Pfostensteckverbinder" are those things also used in PCs. Those plastic ending SIL-connectors (e.g. at IDE cable endings). Yeah, putting the PCBs together and that way make something like one big PCB. I just meant cables, any cables. Ribbon or not, just any type of cable. That with the soldering the conns directly is the way I tried to describe (sry for that english...). Portal? You did not find anyting?? Try followring: www.midibox.org

Interested? :D Definitely Tell me, who of us does not have any opened up C64 keyboards? Not anyone who hasn´t built a SID! Cool!

I´m using following technique in the meantime: Veeeery cheap! Just use the holes in the PCB to put them next to each other (you can also solder the grounding together so it has more stability) using some "Kabelbinder" (English???). First, you have less screws to put those PCBs to your case, second you have minimal cableways. Then just use normal cables to connect those jumpers directly. Advantage: Cheapest way, I think. Minimal space requirement, no danger of bad connections. Best grounding connection, if soldered together. Disadvantage: Only do that, if you KNOW what you are doing. Desoldering ten times can be a horror! Also a possibility: Use "Pfostensteckverbinder" (ARGH! English again???) to interconnect the PCBs. Theyre relatively cheap. They just have two rows of pins, so its sometimes a bit tricky to put them the right way on both PCBs. btw: There should come a little HowTo on the portal the next time on how to save money. There is written some stuff about this topic, too. I already sent it to Poeleq, but I dont know when its on...

Hö? Nich mehr im Angebot?  :P :( Mist... sry für die Verwirrung... Dann nur noch ein Vorschlag von hier aus: Ebay... da gibts zwar meistens "nur" T6963C Displays (schlechte Perfomance), die sind dafür saubillig (ca. 20-40 Eu).

Nojo, Conrad hat ziemlich billige Joysticks... aber die hat noch keiner ausprobiert.... kA ob die was sind.

240x64, KS0108 0107 Treiber mit Hintergrundbel.: "LCD 64240A LED" bei www.reichelt.de für 66.- Den Katalog auch gleich mal mitbestellen :)

I really dont know, if this is needed! If you turn one Enc, the LCD instantly switches to the changed value. Even the Assign-Encoders of the ADSR and the VCO sections are switching to their assigned controllers. There you can immediately see the changed value. And also I dont know if this is possible at all at the moment, the CS needs 2 DOUTx4. 16 of those DINs are multipexed (the MOD section). So, even more multiplexed LED-rings would be some work, I think... /edit: 32 of those DOUTs are multiplexed already, cuse me...

O M G Really a BIG hunk of new stuff, TK. Time to check it all out... :o

Yeah, the .brd files on UCApps is a good beginning, I think, too. Also you should read the tutorial. It´s rather short (for such a prog) but very good. I read it through once and can do everything in Eagle now!

Hmmmm, mine will be a "Quadsid" :-[ :P ::) Cool site! I especially like the "picture" of your SID!!! ;D Should come to the MBPics! Miniature design goodbye! I would change the color of the menu points. Grey on grey is hardly readable. But in the whole it looks cool.

;D  Looks like a MBLinux  ;)

It´s stated in the tutorial: First, hit the polygon button (the active layer must be the one where you want that filling). Type in your ground name (e.g. "gnd" normally). This links the polygon to the ground channel. Next draw the polygon (normally just make a rectangle including the whole board). And hit the ratsnest: Voila! Filled spaces. Have fun!

Yeah, sounds interesting. Perhaps as an embedded version... 640x480 pixels ... doesn´t fit on an regular low-price LCD Display... sigh ... But anyhow, interesting.