Jump to content

s4ndp4pper

Members
  • Posts

    73
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by s4ndp4pper

  1. Wow, awesome!! PayC, how did you build the panel? Is it painted plexiglas?
  2. Wow, awesome!! PayC, how did you build the panel? Is it painted plexiglas?
  3. Lipps inc. Fat disco from the 70ies
  4. -"Was für ein paket?" -"Mein paket..." -"KEIN PAKET! HAHAHA" ;D Swedish-German rocks... "Kom ihåg, att man måste ta TRE steg innan man kastar bollen!"
  5. Trafic (the funky Jaques Tati movie from the 70'ies 8) )
  6. The pots/faders should have 10k resistance. It's important that they are linear, as opposed to logarithmic ones. The pots/faders in stereo equipment are almost always logarithmic, so you can't take one from your dad's stereo :)
  7. I can recommend http://www.okw.co.uk/, they got lots of knobs and enclosures. Worked great for me. They also got the knobs that the Elektron Sidstation uses (although i think they look like crap :) )
  8. I think what d2k meant was something like this: Paint the frontpanel with silver paint. Then make a panel design in, say Adobe Illustrator, which is black with white letters and symbols. When you print it on lazertran and apply it on the frontpanel, the silver on the panel will shine through the lazertran layer... voila... I guess it's hard to make the black printing totally non-transparent on lazertran, though. I haven't used it myself. Anyone with experience?
  9. oh great Pay_c, share thy knowings with us mortals... (bowing, bowing, neeling, chanting, sacrifying 2,8%-beer in His honour...) ;D
  10. Hehe... your pots are 90% cheaper than the crappiest ones you can find in Sweden... I think i'll move to Belgium ;D (i've got walloon ancestry anyway) /J
  11. Ok, thanks for mentioning. It would be a nice "physical" touch, though ;) Maybe one could make a rigid, square-shaped flap and attach one side of it with flexible material, so that the flap itself stays rigid?
  12. Percisely my thought (the valve)! Also, the way the inside of the controller is painted can also play a difference. Thanks for the advices - i never thought about reversing the lightflow like Wilba suggested! I think i'll go for the LDR though. Btw, another aspect is saliva :P ;D and condense water from ones breath. The electronics must be sealed well, maybe behind transparent plastic or something. /J
  13. Hi! Here is a little something-something that i've been thinking of. I thought about making a breath controller for my upcoming midibox, and looked at Matteo Bosi's design at the MIDIbox Extensions page. I love his concept8), but it uses a pressure sensor that costs about 40 Euro in Sweden. And that was a little too much for a poor student like myself. However, i thought about making a breath controller that uses a light sensor instead, like this one: http://www.elfa.se/elfa/produkter/en/2016264.htm The concept looks like this: The idea is that a valve (made of i.e. some thin, flexible, non-transparent plastic or metal film) shuts between two chambers (one with a LED and one with the sensor) and then bends open when air presses it, thereby letting the LED illuminate the sensor, in relation to how much air is blown into the device. The main advantage of this device is that the cost of the optical sensor is a fraction of the price of a pressure sensor. As i understand, the sensor also has it's own amplifying circutry. I havent built this or anything like it. I do not have much electronic knowledge, so i don't know about how the circuit diagram should look like (or if this solution is even possible at all???) What do you guys think? /J
  14. Allright, the Ice Hockey Organ from Hell 8) 8) 8) ;D Sounds cool!!! Post some pictures of it when it's ready!
×
×
  • Create New...