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Screaming_Rabbit
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Posts posted by Screaming_Rabbit
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Hello
Does anybody know about it's possible to implement following multi function button handling by programming?
Description:
I'd like to have 4 or more "shift" buttons (Shift 1-4) to select the functions for Buttons A+B.
Example:
- I press and hold [shift1] the functions the MidiBox sends now would be "CUT" for [buttonA] and "PASTE" for [buttonB]
- I press and hold [shift2] the functions the MidiBox sends now would be "JUMP to Clip Left" for [buttonA] and "JUMP to Clip Right" for [buttonB]
- I press and hold [shift3] the functions the MidiBox sends now would be "JUMP to Marker Left" for [buttonA] and "JUMP to Marker Right" for [buttonB]
... and so on
Logical Shematic:
Button B ___/ _____________________________________________
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
Button A ___/ _______|____________|____________|________ |
| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | |
Shift1/--/ 2/--/ 3/--/ 4/--/
| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | |
\/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/
===========================================
| F F F F F F F F |
| u u u u u u u u |
| n n n n n n n n |
| k k k k k k k k |
| t t t t t t t t |
| i i i i i i i i |
| o o o o o o o o |
| n n n n n n n n |
| |
| 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 |
| A B A B A B A B |
==========================================
Thanks and Greets
Roger
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This is funny... I hate those flat built in trackballs on large digital consoles (have you ever configured some 40-60 channels on a routing matrix being under time pressure?), so I bought one like you just ripped :'( apart and I am totaly happy with it :D
What is funny about that? Well... taste seems to be very flexible :P
Greets, Roger
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I was hoping someone might point me in the right direction.
... well this is the problem when buying a cheap 32bit fixpoint system from a manufacturer who goes proprietary :D Oooops... couldn't keep my mouth shut once again ;D
Now without picking on SlowTools:
Best is you buy a kit from SmashTV or Mike and just try to make it work out. If you look at the price... it's not really expensive (1 core and 1 DOUT which you can build on stripboard).
The problem is, that most guys here have the knowledge for the own DAW system and there aren't many PT-freaks here (god thanks... only prfessionals ;) ).
If you have your kit together you'll get a lot of help where ever possible and you always can give feedback after you tried something.
Greets, Roger
EDIT:
Don't take it personal... nothing against you! I just think ProTools 5 up to 7HD was the worst DAW I ever had to work with day for day the last about 4 years. - Totaly over rated. I should sue my last employee for making me work (or should I say "mouse"?) with it every day. Bad editor, worst DSP engine on the market, big cheapy plastic controller sold for a fortune...
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Is it conrad`s motorpot bad?
... no, it's just not the same model
-what you mean? is ALPS RSAON11M9 bad?no, I mean the K-Type (The K-Fader with coreless motor [CP]) not the N-Type
http://home.tiscali.ch/screamingrabbit/Pages/UCAppsBulk_Order/ALPS/Datasheets/ALPS_motorfader.pdf
... read this:
http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_mf.html
Greets, Roger
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... use your imagination!!! Take a stopwatch and imagine a pot in front of you turning... :-\
ALPS do make highspeed (300°/1sec) motorized rotary pots but I think you'll run with the MF Module into the same problems like when using the ALPS V-Type faders...!?!
http://home.tiscali.ch/screamingrabbit/Pages/UCAppsBulk_Order/ALPS/Datasheets/RK25T12MO.PDF
Greets, Roger
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so the pots aren't at the position they are on the software...
... do you really want that?
The Position of your MIDIBox Pots have no meaning to the position (timeline) of your DAW project.
Assuming you open another project: Your position of the pots is wrong but the PlugIn setting stored in the DAW is how you left finishing the project the last time you worked on it. If the MIDIBox sends now the actual pot positions to your DAW, your PlugIn settings are way off of what you want to hear.
Greets, Roger
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I saw some controls on a lighting desk last year, that were a sort of translucent 'caterpiller track' / belt, in the desk top, with an LED stack inside.
... this was a PGM7000
http://www.pennyandgiles.com/docGallery/85.PDF
Greets, Roger
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Both CME and M-Audio have announced cheap wireless MIDI units in the last week or so. The M-Audio one is built in to a small controller keyboard, and the receiver has USB and MIDI in and out. They are releasing a plug in (ie no keyboard) unit soon.
... to whom it might interest:
http://www.cme-pro.com/products-list/product-widi-8.html
Greets, Roger
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... you just should be aware, that you can't drive the V-Type faders clean with the MBHP Motorfader Module.
http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_mf.html
I presume theyre like the 11type but with the extra track... yes
Greets, Roger
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hi,
i came here recently from the prodigy forum(group diy)
there is a thread there all about console automation,
as a result i've been talking qty deals with alps in the uk,
here's the thread,
http://www.prodigy-pro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17345&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
let me know what you reckon,
maybe you'd like to come in on a group buy sometime in the hopefully
not too distant future to get the price down?
... here are the prices I had in Germany when I did a bulk order:
http://home.tiscali.ch/screamingrabbit/Pages/UCAppsBulk_Order/BULK_Start.htm
... you just should be aware, that you can't drive the V-Type faders clean with the MBHP Motorfader Module.
Greets, Roger
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After that I bought all "old" roles of non ROHS tin I could get.
... as far as I know, it should be no problem in the future, to still get non ROHS soldering tin.
Greets, Roger
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given the new ROHS rollout, what happens if one were to repair an old solder point and the two styles of solder end up mixing.
... no problem
What about production line soldered joints, are the lead free lines running at higher temps?... yes, if I rememer right, about 15-20°C
Greets, Roger
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Wow that looks nice.... Even more than the L2 though :o
... I daily worked with one for the last 7 years and I can tell you, it's a hell of a unit. I also worked a lot with the L1 and L2 plugs and I like them. - This might be a matter of taste, but I like the Jünger much more.
I handle it the way, that when I have to play out the mix (when having external effects involved), I use the Jünger and if I can render the mix, I use the Waves plugs.
Greets, Roger
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... try to get your hands to a used (they're not cheap when new) Jünger D02
http://www.junger-audio.com/website/products_menu/2chdynamics_frame.html
Greets, Roger
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Thanks Jeff for your efforts!
...is this now a backup running? Because I think there are some posts missing.
Greets, Roger
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... so why don't YOU start one? - I think you'll get over 100 faders together.
Greets, Roger
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1. Can one Core in the matrix box accept and deal with multiple midi channels or am I limited to a single channel per Core?
... yes, multible
2. From the reading I have done the Midibox64E seems like a good platform for the switchbox and matrix boxes, or am I making a selection mistake?... yes
2. From the reading I have done the Midibox64E seems like a good platform for the switchbox and matrix boxes, or am I making a selection mistake?... just clarify what you wanna do exactly, make some signal/logical flow charts, try to find out what MBHP-modules you need and if you don't know how to continue, ask in the forum for help
4. The biggest hurdle for me is Programming. I have seen some Java interfaces that look quite simple which is great, my concern is if I have to do anything in C. Does programming in C require a special app (please forgive my ignorance) or is it something that can be accomplished in a text editor?... you can edit with a text editor bur you need a compiler (there are freeware compilers on the net to download)
Do you have an audio unit which you can control by MIDI? - You could use also a software based mixer.
The Engineer control box is the latest addition and I need a little more thought before I'll have any “intelligent†questionsWhat you wanna do is like the typical monitoring and talkback control of an OnAir mixer. To get ideas, see page 19 (diagram) in this brochure.
http://www.studer.ch/pdf/brochures/(1)%20OnAir%203000Net%20(16-08-05)lr.pdf
Greets, Roger
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If I had crimpers, I'd use them for sure, but I'd rather spend my money on parts instead of tools ;D
... or spend the money on tools and build the parts by yourself ;) ;D
Greets, Roger
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Should i buy them with or without switch. And what the h... does the switch do?
... what ever you want/program it to do e.g. automatio on/off, select, menu...
Greets, Roger
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1. 6N138 and 6N139 are the types which are suggested by MIDI.org
2. How about the speed of the PC-900... check the datasheet if it's fast enough
Greets, Roger
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That's what I'm guessing my gripes are with the buttons on my Alesis. When it was new, they weren't nearly that bad, and they've barely been used (or abused). Now, it's like you have to "peck" at them really hard with the tips of your fingers to get an accurate trigger.
If anyone has any good tips (or threads/links) on cleaning or protecting that sort of switch, I've been planning to take it apart and see if it gets any better.
Thanks!
... Some thoughts about the PCB (possibly not related to your Alesis gear but for the pads mentioned in this thread).
I wuld do tests with some graphite-powder mixed with 2 compound glue (like "Araldit"). Try a mixture with as much graphite you can get into the glue while the glue will still stick well on the copper pads (i think it will be possible to get about 40-50% of graphite-powder into it).
Apply a drop on every copper pad and when it's dry, stick a sanding paper onto a table and sand the drops down to about 0.2-0.1mm so they are as thin as possible and have a nice flat top. - I think this could work out.
Greets, Roger
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Hi Screaming_Rabbit,
I strongly disagree! ;)
There are rubber button pads on my mikroKONTROL and there are rubber buttons on my Electribe. All of these are nicely to touch, easy to trigger and provide a good haptic feedback.
The switches I used to build in various DIY-stuff really suck. They are expensive, even more expensive with visual feedback (LEDs), they begin to make noises somewhen (quieek! ...no joke: LED-Switches for 4,- EUR each), they're ugly, you have to concentrate to get the position, because they are tiny and the distance to the panel is too long, that is, you cannot easily "flow" over the panel with your fingers... let's say the rubbery ones remind me of a modern computer keyboard, while the others are like industrial typewriters.
Of course I don't know how these matrix-buttons feel, but looking at the backside, I expect them to have a nice feeling (and looking at the price, I expect that, too ;D )
But I agree with Jidis, it would be interesting having someone around here who has a Monome or maybe worked with this Button Matrix!
Best regards,
Michael
Well, this might be a matter of taste. The feel of the rubber pads gets better and better but still not as nice as an EAO switch (and those are available with RGB LEDs and never squieek).
How about reliability? It took years for the industry to develop a PCB coating which ensures contact while beeing physical resistive to erosion and corrosion over years... and you think you're just doing it with some blanc copper or tin? :-\
I agree about the design aspect
I don't wanna disturb you guy's creativity... just throwing in some arguments... I like doing that ;D
Greets, Roger
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Why would somebody go for the bad feeling of rubber pad buttons? - To break down production costs! But for this price (100 pads = when you order 1600 pcs. of switches) you get decent switches with a nice tactile feel.
Greets, Roger
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multi function button handling
in Design Concepts
Posted
I prefer "C"
THX for the code-example, Jack!
Greets, Roger