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Screaming_Rabbit

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Posts posted by Screaming_Rabbit

  1. Just a thought.... If you're going to make a hardware module which will take care of FAT for a CF card, why not just go straight to a hard drive?

    ... because of uncle noise? - On the other hand: I then could complain about this f...ing noisy Harddrive and would be happy with cheap Mic-Pres because I wouldn't hear the "schhhschhhschhh...." anymore.  ;D

    Greets, Roger

  2. oh roger, so cynical.

    i use a pro control at school, i imagine thats what you mean by proper and pro equipment.

    ryan

    ... not only.

    To not insulting anybody, I won't name brands. But under "pro" I understand:

    - 32Bit floating (... so I don't have channel-clipping within the digital domain)

    - an editer which doesn't has to render EQ, dynamics, pitch and fades (I'm not talking about the mixer track)

    - an editer which supports source/destination 4-point cutting

    - hardware which supports MADI

    - a system which can highspeed render my mix if I'm not using outboards

    ... and some other things which are too minor to list here.

    Well... I just can think of one brand which does fulfill not one of the above points  :'( and they call themselves the loosers... ähhhm leaders (damn english... it's not my mothertongue  ;D )

    Greets, Roger

  3. in fact the problem is that you feel the "click" of the tact switch too...

    it's a way the pads are done on MPC and others:

    sicoat5.jpg

    finding a conductive material to put back side the pad won't be a problem i suppose, and maybe the pcb can be done with standart method ?

    ... mostly used is a graphite as the conductive material on the bottom of the buttons.

    Graphite powder (about 20%) is also mixed into thermoplasts, to make make it conductive (ever wondered how plastic encoder knobs of digital mixers can be touch sesitive?  ;) )

    You could try to mix about 80% graphite powder with 20% of some silicone glue and smear it over the bottom of your buttons, to make it conductive.

    The big challenge will be the construction shape to receive a nice tactile feel. You have to design some kind of silicone dome which snaps when you push the button.

    Greets, Roger

  4. ... but high enough to withstand soldering...

    I think it doesn't even have to withstand a higher temperature than the soldering tin. I lately soldered a PCB which was "printed" with tin by this silk-screen printing technique. - The printed tin was melting but the result was surprisingly good. The circuit trace just shrunk a little bit at the soldering points but it stayed perfectly intact.

    Greets, Roger

  5. Hey... Sorry I didn't explain it so good. The 20 LEDS are seperate from the whole midibox thing... They are connected to an on/off switch just for lighting the beast up, and have nothing to do with the core... That's why I wonder if I should just split the power coming from the midi-cable in 2? Or will the seperate LEDs pull too much power??

    Thanx for helping.... i'm learning alot

      :-) Rune

    ... depends on your power supply. The splitting shouldn't be a problem... it's like you're having 20 "power ON" LEDs  ;D

    For the cable I think it's no problem as well, even thought those single lines aren't of large diameter.

    Greets, Roger

  6. Hey Roger,

    I need 8 plugs and 2 sockets, all 3 pin.

    D

    ... sorry don't have that many. Tip: Go to a big music shop where they sell lots of rack mount gear and ask. - A lot of times they take the left over cables out of the box before selling it. Most of todays ProAudio gear comes with all types of power cables (US/UK/German).

  7. I want to run the power over the 2 unused dims in the Midi-cable

    ... I think you mean "pins"...? Just use the left over ones

    Pins 4,2 and 5 (the three middle ones) are occupied by the MIDI interface by specification.

    and how do I run the power inside the guitar (do I just split the wire into two, one going to the modules the other going to the LEDs?)

    ... I think you got something wrong here: The MIDI cable is the connection to your synth (or the DigiTech pedal... I think you're the guy writing about this stuff in an other thread). So you'll have the core board in your guitar and the buttons and LEDs are connected to it.

    Greets, Roger

  8. I think it's more mechanical assembly than electronic, but I could be wrong about that. ?

    ... I think it's electronic. I was talking to them early this year because I showed interest for using them in our mixers.

    In our conversation he mentioned, that it would be cheaper for us if we include their electronics right on our fader boards.

    Funny thing is, they just E-mailed me about an hour ago and asked me if I'm interested in samples  :)

    Greets, Roger

  9. Hi,

    I've been lent a Novation Remote SL Zero for the weekend to try out. So far it seems alright....not great.

    Any one have any suggestion how I should  analyze the MIDI I/O so that I can gather some information about the Automap feature and how the protocol works?

    Rowan

    MIDIYoke and MIDIOX (both freewares... there is somewhere a link on ucapps.de for downloading)

    Greets, Roger

  10. ... for the optical ball-mouse recycle, you don't need a PS/2 interface. You can connect the optical interrupters right away to the DIN board. "Logitec" mices have four pins where of one goes to ground. If I find the pin layout on one (which one  ???) of my computers, i'll send it to you (I have it somewhere). I'll use it in my box for the jogwheel (low mechanical resistence).

    ... I found the pin layout. If you PM me your E-Mail, I'll send it to you. - Anybody else interrested?

    Greets, Roger

  11. hallo everybody

    i was wondering if anybody has an eagle power tools software not the demo version to convert an image into an eagle script, i need it to fix led rings in a roundish pcb design.thanks

    simone

    ... see your Inbox for my E-Mail address.

    Greets, Roger

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