Altitude
-
Posts
1,184 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
30
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Posts posted by Altitude
-
-
^
I think budget more than anything.
300+ euro for a case is ridiculous. You might get 5 people willing to pay that for a "premium" case. You're getting taxed BIG TIME for the low volume, that case should be 30 euro, not 90. It's not ill will, it's simple economics. There is a cost to set up to run those and that cost is passed to you so getting 10 cases cut will cost not that much less than getting 50 cases cut except the per piece cost will be spread over 10 cases, not 50.
For that kind of money, there are dozens of one off prototype case places that will punch, fold, and silk screen aluminum however you want. I pay 130 euro TOTAL for one off prefabbed hammond cases machined and engraved front and back. I've actually had Hammond quote cases similar to this (and that means punched THEN powder coated) and it was half that in quantities over 50 pcs..
-
I took those holes off, they were only there for the 2 piece prototype panels where you needed to wire them together and you dont need them with the current CS PCB.
Are you seriously going to do the LCD window cutouts on the back? I can understand the blind holes for the mounting (I dont really agree though, counter sunk holes with the right hardware are just as good at a fraction of the price IMHO) but the LCD window cutouts are a pretty dated concept, You can get 20 windows cut laser cut for the price of one machined one and those dont require a cutout on the back of the panel. I've been using the "snap in" plexi windows for everything project I've done in the last 5 years and those are perfectly fine (see SamichSID/FM)
-
Does the sammich run in 4 or 8 bit mode? Newhaven OLEDs dont like the 4bit midibox implementation
-
I don't mind seeing the bolt heads.
why not use counter sunk flat head screws. Those will be flush with the panel and you're still doing all the work on the front of the panel
-
1
-
-
Peter,
Will do. I DO have 8 bit core's (albeit old ones) and PICs on hand so I very well may take you up on that. I know what paper work is needed to get things through the Deutsches Customs and seeing that Noritake has 150 of these parts @ $18 each at their local office (to me) it may be well worth it for more than just me
-
thanks for the input. I'll go over the data sheets and see if I can find the difference.
should I just comment out the "switch to 4bit mode" commands to go into 8 bit mode?
also, with the nops, should I start here?
"function which toggles the strobe lineUSER_LCD_Strobe_Togglenopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnoprcall USER_LCD_Strobe_Setnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnopnoprcall USER_LCD_Strobe_Clrreturn;; =========================================================================="ps. I know all about German custom's "eccentricities" I've had my monotribe midi kits sit in customs for 6 weeks before being delivered and had some even returned (7 months later) -
Ok,
Problems. Recompiled the hex and I just get a couple of dots. I gave the wrong part number though, its a CU20045-UW5A, these are older parts but Noritake is selling them for $18 at their store in Illinois so I couldn't resist. When in 4 bit mode could having the pins that are normally not used cause a problem?
http://noritake-vfd.com/cu20045-uw5a.aspx
http://www.8051projects.net/files/public/1338569803_38288_FT0_c20045-uw5a_adatlap.pdf
I have a spare one of these with your name on it if you have nothing better to do ;)
-
yes! That's where it's headed.
Thanks for the documentation, will go over it and report back
-
So I got these wonderful displays in and unfortunately the documentation is sparse and this is my first outing with these so I'm a bit lost. Can anyone shed some light on how to get these up and running?
http://www.8051projects.net/files/public/1338569803_38288_FT0_c20045-uw5a_adatlap.pdf
-
here is how I do my back panels. I find it much easier to mount the board directly to the backpanel using the the midi sockets that have three holes as brackets. Trying to use standoffs and align things on 3 different planes is a bit too fiddly IMHO. I have the layouts for the STM32 and LPC but not the new one. Also the SD card holder I like and the 4xIIC midi
-
2
-
-
Oh, I see. You're using the panel with all the work on the back.. You do realize that almost triples the price? You can do counter sunk through holes for the standoffs and and no counter bore for the displays and you'll be back where I am price wise.
Here is what one of mine looked like with laser cut windows and through holes for the stand offs (same as what Julien is offering if I am not mistaken)
-
2
-
-
wow. I'll be watching this closely
-
170 euro sounds really steep for the front panel, front panel express charged $180 to do my whole case (front and back panels) so you might want to shop around a bit. In single quantities, the FPD software has the front panel @ $115 usd which is 85 euro. Not sure why yours is twice as much
*edit
OK, I see where you went wrong. DO NOT get CNC windows made, that's where your problem is. Get them laser cut, I can get 16 windows for a SEQ on the formular/ponoko A size (the smallest) for $15, on a bigger size it would be even less. I have the template if you want it (I use the same size for my Ambika builds)
Schaeffer/Front panel express are premium services and there are MANY different options out there. Your Frontpanels.de guys sound like they are competitive, but I still dont get where that price comes from it's twice what it should be. First person I would talk to is Julian (thebeast), he's an insider here and I am sure with a big job, he could beat out commercial places price wise -
woah, those PCB mount ones look pretty sweet for $22. Thin as an OLED
Not to mention these: https://noritake-vfd.com/cu20045-uw5a.aspx
or the fact that the 40x2s are $45 new at that site
-
this is how you do the parasitic midi power btw: http://www.colinfraser.com/m2d/m2d2m.pdf
-
Honestly, beyond using as the feedback loop, I've never really seen anything cool done with it
-
^
Nice, missed that thread.
-
yeah, the SD card is located in a spot that it would interfere if you dont cut it off
-
Are you running the OLED in 4bit Mode?
-
I'm with ilmenator on this one. You cant beat laser cut acrylic for the cost/result ratio. There are several ways of doing it so it would be time well spent looking around on how people make them. With the laser, it's always time that you pay for, the actual material is very cheap so how you lay it out makes a HUGE difference in price. 3D printing sounds cool but I've seen what the results look like from the Makerbot type lower end machines and it's crude at best. I've also seen the results out of a Stratasys machine and that's a different story but that's not 10 euro an hour
-
you're also going to need standoffs. I use M3x0.5 threaded, 10mm long screws for the corner supports. I'll try to document the case in the wiki in the next couple of weeks but time is at a premium these days unfortunately
-
^
My case
-
Still open? Need 50 clear
-
Yeah, those look very similar. The only high current one you will probably need is the 5V one. The traco will be drop replacements for the 78XX
Building a MIDIbox SEQ V4 (Wilba Control Surface) - Photo Tutorial
in Tips & Tricks
Posted
couple things I would add t this:
12mm encoders vs 16mm encoders: This is fine but I HIGHLY recommend you have your enclosure/panel made at this stage so you can check the fit before soldering the parts in. Whenever you need to do lead yoga and eyeball what is a good fit, it's a lot easier to check your work against the panel before you solder everything in place.
LEDS: Same thing, I never solder in LEDs without using the front panel as a template, yes it's more work to mock everything up initially but way less work than going back to fix misaligned LEDs later on. Attach your standoffs, screw in the PCB with all the LEDs fitted in their holes, then solder them in..