Altitude
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Posts posted by Altitude
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I have seen plenty of DIY toner transfer systems but with this I think the key is the actual laminator. Everyone I talked to said using an iron to heat it up is very hit and miss
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I like the laminator idea. I have a datak etching tank which is an elegant rig and makes easy work of etching board since there is no clean up, just put the top on the tank. I have no problem using photo exposing and I can get traces down to 0.016" but this system would make life easier for sure, also makes 2 sided boards much easier to make
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also bear in mind the 6581 and the 8580 have different power requirements
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I went the other way. I just had schaffer do the machining and did the paint and graphics myself. My front panel ended up costing $40 for the machining plus paint and labels it came to about $55.
I have some pics up of my lazertran tests:
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this dissolves some of the remaining stuff on the tin plate besides the metal itself preventing it from hazing over down the line.
yep. to dissolve any remaining salts. The solution should be at 130 F
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Do i have to take apart the power supply and solder the certain bit's to the right places? Or is it meant to be kept as a whole?
no. Just buy a din 7 connector (same as the c64 psu) and make the circuit on protoboard
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Ok,
I did some testing with the lazertran:
I used some flat model clear coat first to set the decal followed by a flat acrylic clear coat. Initially, the edges were visible but with some modest sanding with 800 grit, they were easily sanded away. Obviously, a high res printer would have given me better results but I have to say that this is impressive and definitely my plan for doing front panel graphics
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http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_4xsid_c64_psu_optimized.pdf
is what you should be going by. I tested the simple PSU board and it was pretty noisy so this is the way to go
With the optimized psu, you will have +5VDC and +14VDC outputs. The core module needs to have the regulator removed (you can take the rectifier off too) and its input wired to the output, the power will then be supplied to the core via J2.
The +5/GND to the SID will be connected via J2 VCC and VSS pins. The +14VDC is connected to the SID module via J1. The 14V can be a single wire since GND is connected via J2. You should also add a big cap (2200 uF/16V) at the end of the +5 and GND power lines to filter digital noise
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d00rs,
You need to be a little bit more specific so we can determine where your problem is.
the midi out does not need to be connected to produce sound
what are you powering your core and sid with?
Did you correctly upload MIOS and the SID app?
What does it say on your screen?
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try different values see what is acceptable. Run it through a meter and see how much current you a drawing and its low with acceptable light level, you should be OK to run off of the core. I got acceptable results with my clear blue LED's using a 1k (which reduced the current draw from 120 mA per LED down to about 2.6 mA)
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yes it is very thick. You should have no problem moving it around into position when its wet. It really does not fix its position until it all water has been pressed out from underneath and the decal has dried
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I would add some caps after the regulators (10 uF electrolytic and 100 nf)
I definitely like the dual secondary idea though and for the normal MBHP stuff that does not need the -12, this is the way to go
I would look up how the ground is referenced though since i'm not sure how that applies in a half wave/ bridged mix
might want to read this:
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yes they do
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you dont need to. If you already have the cap, then just use that and yes jumper the spot where the regulator was
What exactly are these "bypass caps" and where do they go??Bypass caps go on the solder side between the pins of the IC's 5v input and ground.
look here:
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No. that is referring to C5 (the big one) since there is some filtering already done on the PSU board, you do not need such a big cap
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you sure your asking for the correct pn? I got mine in the mail today
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I just measured my LED's (bright blue) and without a resistor they pull 120 mA (what i like to call 'flashlight mode') and with a 1k, which brings to acceptable brightness, 2.6 mA
Bear in mind that there is never a case where all the LEDs will be on at once
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We will see. I dont think it will go up by a factor of two though
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its the B surface so there is no matrix or other stuff. I am using a shielded transformer and a filtered power entry module, both will be located inside the case. I have not adjusted the LED resistors so each led pulls close to 100 mA which is really high (i am using bright blue ones) so there is no way that the remaining stuff should pull another 500 mA from the 5 volt line
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yep, using Tim's (smashTV) LCD. It really does not go up when producing sound (even in 4x link mode)
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More developments:
I tested the current draw on my rig (4 6581s and Cores + DIN + DOUT + 8 x Bankstick + LTC) and I am drawing 420 mA on the 5v and 130 mA on the 12v
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the photo EZ is light exposed. You do it just like a circuit board where you print the art on a transparency, lay it over the screen and expose. The non-masked sections set with light and the masked sections should rinse away with water. The problem I had was exposing it correctly is alot of trial and error and seeing the screens are expensive, it just was not worth spending $50 for one good screen
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Well copper melts at about 1100 deg C which well exceeds anything that it could be printed on (or that could heat it for that matter). Plating copper requires a nickel base so thats out.
I dont see the big deal with etching, take me about 5-10 minutes
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Panel Labelling AFTER build
in Design Concepts
Posted
nice
;D