Altitude
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Posts posted by Altitude
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Bad connections? Killed EEprom?
could be a combination of both. miswiring killed one for me
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interesting. the psu i'm working on has a power resistor on a 12V line after the smoothing caps before the 7805 which should drop it (according to alex who is also working on one) to about 7 VDC, which is more than manageable. I dont know how clean the 5V has to be since it is driving the digital side only
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I did some work on this myself and here is a simplified +/-12 +5 V one. I added some protection diodes to the 12V lines so when they are used to drive op amps (which is the case for me) they will prevent the power up cap short. I also added spaces for more big caps.
And the Trace Art:
The regulators are shown flat but should be mounted vertically for use with heat sinks, i could not find a pin compatible to-220 package in the library so i just used those
The Transformer I used was a Hammond 166L24 24ct VAC / 2 Amps (mouser p/n:546-166L24)
and the power resistor was an 8 ohm 10 watt Xicon type 280-CR10-8.2-RC (mouser p/n:280-CR10-8.2-RC)
I will be testing it on my SID x4 and get results up promptly.
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You can click the traces and they will highlight what pins they are connected to. May make things easier to sort out
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You cant see the trace on the GIF, dl the *.brd file and hide the top layers, there is a trace that goes to the from R1 to the 78L05. I made a board based on this and it works fine
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um, what board is that? Those values do not correspond the the mhbp_burner_v1.brd file i have (its R10 and C8 on mine, and they do connect)
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U know, i spaced it and it is actually a philmore-datek kit.
http://www.philmore-datak.com/DATAK.htm
But Jaytronics stocks them. I also got a bunch of Datek stuff including the chemical tin plater so once i have a chance to make some boards i'll post my results. Their boards are designed to be exposed with a standard 100 watt lightbulb (10 min at 12") so hopefully these will work better than the GC ones i have been using
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Just for everyones info, the jaytronics etching tank is $34 and includes a 1.5 gallon tank, board holder, bubbler, and heater. just picked on up and it is a dream come true (etches in about 5 minutes)
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t would be nice if the separate output jacks could be set up as an interrupt jack. ie tip-ring-sleeve, so that a mono plug just steals the signal from the mix, but a stereo plug steals it and then returns it to the mix bus.
The sockets i used already have the normally closed, steal from mix feature built in but I dont think the jacks would work the way you described. With a suitable jack, i'm sure this would work though
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Steve,
They are switchcraft sockets (RN111PC and RN112APC). they were the only board mounted normally-closed sockets i could find at Mouser. To make it simple, i used the normally open version of it for the L/R outs (i'll send u my lbr)
I'm not sue what a cue function would give u since the SID outputs are hardwired into the mixer
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So are there any potential pitfalls or problems with powering SID boards from a common power rail like the Core's in the optimized PSU schematic? I have to use a different PSU anyway (would TK's OPL3 PSU work here?) since I need the +/-12 V. Would the procedure be the same as for the cores? (Meaning pull the big cap and rectifier and then just short the regulator pins?).
Also, for adding the 5V to the psu: is it better to branch everything after the rectifier, use 3 rectifiers, or the simply run the 5V regulator off of the +12 regulators output?
thnks
raph
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I will as soon as I get the pot board finished. I envisioned this thing as being all single sided so on the pot board u will install DIL header upside down so the long ends come out the back and the plastic riser keeps it in place on the front. This is still in the prototype stage so i would like to make sure everything works before I release all the files. I should have my new etching tank and parts this week.
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definitely. I should be etching boards this week so hopefully I'll have everything test soon
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Ok, here is the board layout. I decided to go with a DIL header since 24 wires does not seem to be a neat way of wiring the pots.
Note that the TL084 needs a +/- 12 V input. I will have panel mounted pots on a 1 to 1 connection with the mixer board header ready shortly spaced for a 2u rack
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You cant upload mios 1.9 with the 1.1 bootloader, it will need to be updated to 1.2 (instructions are in the zip in the downloads section.) This may be a chicken or the egg type deal so I would at least try to bring it to the current version to make sure thats not the problem you are experiencing (I went through the same thing where it would just send the request no matter what i did to it)
If your getting a request sysex string, then you should be good to go. You can also try just sending an older mios to see if thats the problem
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I get a black digit row when I turn it on. What this mean ?
That means its correctly installed. What bootloader version are you running? If it is 1.1, you have to update it to 1.2 for MIOS 1.9 to work properly, that may be the problem you are having
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what r u powering with?
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Sorry to cpr this old thread, but what determines what kind of cap and how many to smooth the voltage before and after the regulator? I have been researching various linear PSU designs and it seems that everyones is very similar (rectifier -> smoothing caps -> regulator -> more smoothing caps) but the number, type, and values of the caps all vary considerably. Ray Wilsons uses 4 polar 4700 uF with a 1uF polar on the end. Yours (Smash) has one lytic and one non-polar one each side of the regulator while Seb Francis' bench PSU has one polar and one non-polar plus a load resistor and a reverse protecting diode.
So I guess my question is what exactly is the theory behind the different cap types?
My other related question is a little more specific to what I'm working on which is a +12/-12/+5 PSU from a 2 amp center tapped 25VAC transformer. Would it make sense to use a second rectifier behind the first to drop the voltage further before going into the 5V regulator or just driving it with the output of the main rectifier (12.5 VAC) directly the way to go?
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I would just use a 15V one and let the regulators do the work
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I do think they are SMT LEDs. be warned though, when you take apart a LCD getting it aligned and put back together is a nightmare, but then again at Smash's insane crazy low prices, its worth a shot
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Update.
It does look like my brightness control is working but it is a TINY adjustment (barely visible, thats why i thought it didnt work). Shorting R7 does improve it to acceptable levels though. Will do some stress testing today to see how hot the whole deal becomes
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check your output voltage from the regulator and see if it dipped below 12V, IIRC there is usually a drop across the regulator so 12VDC may not cut it if the regulator is stuffed
Ebay C64 fun
in MIDIbox SID
Posted
Very cool C64 overlay keyboard. someone should snap this up for their SID project
Ebay link