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Posts posted by Altitude
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Sounds like your PSU is on the low side. R u using a 6581 or 8580?
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So here a design for a panning mono to stereo mixer intended for a 4xSID box based on the TL084. It is pretty much an duplicate of Ray Wilsons MFOS
(http://www.musicfromouterspace.com) mixer with the addition of normally closed mono jacks to steal the mono outputs from the stereo mix when a cable is connected. Each channel has its own level and pan controls and the whole deal is driven with +/- 12VDC.
I will be building the prototype in the next couple of days so I should have brd's/partlists available shortly. Any comments are welcome.
Cheers.
Alt
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So what were ppls results? This looks like exactly what i'm looking for since i'm working on a 4 channel panning mixer for my 4xSID and +/- 12 V rails are what i need
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for audio cables, roll your own. Stateside, Mogami and Canare cable is no more than $1.50/meter and connectors are fairly cheap (1-3$). I'm sure that is the same case in Europe
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http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_core_v3.pdf
or for the older R3 smash boards
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*fixed links
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See the wiring diagram located on the Control surface page:
http://ucapps.de/midibox_sid_cs.html or http://ucapps.de/midibox_sid_cs/2x16_enc.pdf
U can change the mappings of what goes where but it would probably just be easier to do as is
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mclr is pin 1. look at the schematic and everything will be clear (ie those are the "names" of the pins)
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no bankstick = 1 patch only
and watch out for midi loops!! (do not thru on your interface)
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thanks smash.
Mine is really low (you can barely see that it is on with normal room lighting) so dont think i'm trying to push it too bright.
Here is the thing though, i am using R3 boards. Is the trimpot functionality the same? For some reason, I thought that one pot was for normal LCD contrast and the other one was for the backwards ones. I tried 2 types of LCDs on two of my cores and neither pots affect the brightness
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its not the most bright ive seen but good enough for me
thats the same boat im in so i am wondering if its just a resistor limiting the brightness on the LCD PCB
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That has no effect with this LCD
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Tim,
Is it possible to change the value of the "current limiting" resistor to get some more brightness out of 2X20's that you sell? If so, which one is it?
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I have purchased LCDs from rainbow city and they work great (and are real nice to boot) I would get a couple and save on shipping at that price
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Yea, thats what i ended up getting. They were Alps tact switches and they come in 4 different heights (up to 13.5mm) and have a 6mm square footprint. Thanks!
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So far i have done only a coffee cup (turned out great) and a some test text on the back of an enclosure that was close in color to the panel I am working on. I unfortunately sprayed the panel with not clear but tsn so it didnt turn out that well. I will post my real results when i get the artwork done.
search the forums, there are a couple of ppl which have posted their results
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I'm planning you use a "liquid glass" coating called Vitrail which is used for Glass and Cermamics as well as usable on metal.
Bear in mind that they recommend you use a spirit based clear coat (Polyurathane is one) water based ones will leave the backing white. I'm really happy with the results and cant wait to start on the FP for my 4xSID.
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it turns clear. u can see the cutlines under close inspection but I would do is just cover the whole panel with it and trim it off at the panels edge so there are non. They make this stuff in 24"x60' rolls and making a big one is pretty easy and managable.
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I have been hearing about this stuff from several sources (including some ppl have used it here) so I decided to give it a whirl.
Well IMHO, this stuff is the best thing since sliced bread. Simply print at highest possible resolution with inkjet or color laser, let it dry for 30 minutes, cut out, soak in water for 60 sec and you have a fairly thick, very handling friendly decal. I was easily able to transfer on a textured, powdercoated aluminum panel. You finish it with a solvent based clear coat which makes the white background clear. The results are pretty spectacular and the idea of ever getting anything screened again is totally out of the question.
The drawbacks that I can see is that there is no white in most printers, but the white backing can remain opaque by using a water based clear coat and I guess you could do a combination of both is u mask out whatever you want to have white in it.
at 16$ for a 10 pack of A size, this stuff is worth checking out
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It wold be better to mount it for a better debugging ?
Oh yes.
I would have gone completely insane debugging mine if it wasn't for my LCD
Getting everything to work is like old testament God: lots of rules, no mercy ;D
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but there is a definate high pitched digital type noise in te background which seems to change depending on which patch program you are using
Did you remember to add the 2200 uf/16V cap to the end of your power chain? I have the 4 sid running and it is super quiet so sounds like you did not add it. Also short the audio input (J4 on the sid)
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Can anyone reccomend some good small diameter ones? Ideally 3mm or 1/8" posts with a short travel
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it should be 1:1 (i do the PDF thing also)
You do not want to scale it.
I also find it useful to use Illustrator to strech parts out if you need a board bigger than what the freeware eagle allows
Single Button & Single Rotary Encoder CS?
in MIDIbox SID
Posted
I'm sure it would work but there would need to be some code modification required